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Re: [hobbicast] book for sale

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  • mikey98118
    A few months back I began a discussion here on construction of miniature fan-blown burners for coffee-can furnaces; this led to a discovery, which has kept me
    Message 1 of 11 , Feb 3, 2013
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      A few months back I began a discussion here on construction of miniature fan-blown burners for coffee-can furnaces; this led to a discovery, which has kept me busy since then.

      How Vortex burners work
      Spinning a gas/air mixture makes for very good blending of fuel and oxidizer; it creates good turbulence with minimal drag.
      Jet-ejector style burners create spin as the entrained air from a side opening (or multiple openings) is forced to turn through ninety degrees, on its journey down the mixing tube. So, this burner design can be made from a pipe with a flame nozzle on its forward end.
      Linear burners are fed air from the rear; without a funnel shape of some kind attached to the burner’s back, there is nothing to create air spin; thus all the old linear burners you see feature some kind of concentric bell reducer at the rear, and a flame nozzle at the front.
      A gas jet at the entrance of a tube or expanding cone shape creates a low pressure area (Bernoulli’s principle), and ambient air pressure pushes atmosphere into the partial vacuum created by the jet, to equalize pressure; this is called air entrainment, and it makes a pretty dynamic “motor” in naturally aspirated propane burners.
      According to the laws of fluid dynamics a fluid’s rotational velocity increases as its cross sectional area decreases; at the same time fluid pressure is dropping (as positive pressure is transformed into kinetic energy); the liquid whirlpool in your bathtub drain demonstrates these phenomena for anyone “with eyes to see.” The fluid’s forward movement tends to increase at about one-half the speed of rotation.
      Note: In fluid dynamics a “fluid” can consist of a liquid, gas, or plasma.
      If an axial fan is mounted on the mouth (large opening) of a funnel shape, forward momentum and rotational movement are both created before the fluid even starts its progress down the funnel towards its small opening; desirable qualities in the vortical flow being enhanced every bit of the way.
      Thus, air entering the gas jet area mentioned previously is already spinning, at low pressure and has considerably accelerated forward velocity; an ideal feed, which the gas jet accelerates still further. You end up with a kind of double push system that feeds a high volume low pressure gas/air mixture down the burner’s mixing tube and into the flame nozzle, where it is slowed and its pressure is further reduced by the sudden increase in cross sectional area from the mixing tube’s restriction. You now have a fast mixture feed of unusually low pressure behind the flame front, allowing a very fierce flame to be maintained at the nozzle. These are the operational principles of Vortex burners; their construction details may take me years to completely pin down.
      You heard it here first.
      Michael Porter (author of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns).

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • mikey98118
      How to more easily build 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” size Vortex burners The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage
      Message 2 of 11 , Feb 5, 2013
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        How to more easily build 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” size Vortex burners
        The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage stuffing tube as the basic building unit on which to mount the burner’s other parts. Stuffing tubes come already connected to their own bell housings or funnel shapes.
        Their extra wide (and very flat) rims at the open ends of the housings, which are normally employed to help effectively trap them on sausage grinders, promote easy mounting of both axial motor and gas tube onto the opening, and their long tubes can slide easily into still longer mixing tubes, on which spacer rings and flame nozzles can be mounted. This eliminates any need for fit-up and silver brazing of the two parts; it also simplifies mounting the motor and gas fittings.
        Unfortunately stuffing tubes come in a limited amount of sizes; they can only be used to construct 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” burners; 1/8”, 3/16”, 3/4”, or larger than 1” burners require more complicated construction methods.
        The axial DC muffin motor is screwed onto a large square or round washer (depending on which outside shape offers greater convenience) of 5/16” or thicker aluminum sheet that is the same outside diameter as that of the stuffing tube housing’s extra wide rim. The ring’s inside hole matches the smaller diameter of the fan blades.
        Threaded holes are drilled through the washer, which match up with the motor’s four mounting holes. A hole is also drilled from a place at the washer’s edge, clear through to its center hole.
        A 1/8” by eight inch (or longer) annealed copper refrigeration tube, with a piece of capillary tube brazed or soldered into it for a gas jet, and a barbed or threaded hose fitting attached to its other end, is slid through the hole, and bent ninety degrees, pointing down toward the sausage tube’s center (on the opposite face from the motor). Once the gas jet tube is centered, it is glued in place with epoxy or aluminum adhesive.
        LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter bell housing with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($21.55 and shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3">http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3 Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. 3/8” tube at 0.375” is only thirty to fifty thousandths smaller than the inside diameter of 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
        LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter extra-long funnel with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($22.95 and shipping): meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw">http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer; this tube is nearest to 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
        #32 x 1/2" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($12.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small">http://www.amazon.com/narrow-Stuffing-sausage-Sticks-Weiners/dp/B007WWMX7C/ref=sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer; this tube is nine thousandths larger inside diameter than 3/8” schedule #40 pipe.
        #32 x 3/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD">http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-grinders-LEM-Cabelas/dp/B007WO4VXY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. This tube is one-hundred and eighteen thousandths larger inside diameter than 1/2” schedule #40 pipe.
        #32 x 1-1/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/large-Stuffing-Grinders-Sausage-Making/dp/B007WNWTIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_4 Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. This tube is at least fifty thousandths larger inside diameter than 1” schedule #40 pipe.

        Combination of three different sized (3/8”, 3/4”, and 1-1/4” diameter by 7” long) sausage stuffing tubes, with conical shaped housings ($39.75 and shipping) : http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-Grinder-electric-grinders/dp/B008H51OLE/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD

        Michael Porter

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: michael a porter <michael.a.porter@...>
        To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 19:06:17 -0000 (UTC)
        Subject: Re: [hobbicast] book for sale

























        A few months back I began a discussion here on construction of miniature fan-blown burners for coffee-can furnaces; this led to a discovery, which has kept me busy since then.



        How Vortex burners work


        Spinning a gas/air mixture makes for very good blending of fuel and oxidizer; it creates good turbulence with minimal drag.


        Jet-ejector style burners create spin as the entrained air from a side opening (or multiple openings) is forced to turn through ninety degrees, on its journey down the mixing tube. So, this burner design can be made from a pipe with a flame nozzle on its forward end.


        Linear burners are fed air from the rear; without a funnel shape of some kind attached to the burner’s back, there is nothing to create air spin; thus all the old linear burners you see feature some kind of concentric bell reducer at the rear, and a flame nozzle at the front.


        A gas jet at the entrance of a tube or expanding cone shape creates a low pressure area (Bernoulli’s principle), and ambient air pressure pushes atmosphere into the partial vacuum created by the jet, to equalize pressure; this is called air entrainment, and it makes a pretty dynamic “motor” in naturally aspirated propane burners.


        According to the laws of fluid dynamics a fluid’s rotational velocity increases as its cross sectional area decreases; at the same time fluid pressure is dropping (as positive pressure is transformed into kinetic energy); the liquid whirlpool in your bathtub drain demonstrates these phenomena for anyone “with eyes to see.” The fluid’s forward movement tends to increase at about one-half the speed of rotation.


        Note: In fluid dynamics a “fluid” can consist of a liquid, gas, or plasma.


        If an axial fan is mounted on the mouth (large opening) of a funnel shape, forward momentum and rotational movement are both created before the fluid even starts its progress down the funnel towards its small opening; desirable qualities in the vortical flow being enhanced every bit of the way.


        Thus, air entering the gas jet area mentioned previously is already spinning, at low pressure and has considerably accelerated forward velocity; an ideal feed, which the gas jet accelerates still further. You end up with a kind of double push system that feeds a high volume low pressure gas/air mixture down the burner’s mixing tube and into the flame nozzle, where it is slowed and its pressure is further reduced by the sudden increase in cross sectional area from the mixing tube’s restriction. You now have a fast mixture feed of unusually low pressure behind the flame front, allowing a very fierce flame to be maintained at the nozzle. These are the operational principles of Vortex burners; their construction details may take me years to completely pin down.


        You heard it here first.


        Michael Porter (author of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns).



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]










        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
        I have a 45 year old natural gas (NGA), compressed air brazing torch that has a helical multi start spiral insert in the air passage and the gas enters through
        Message 3 of 11 , Feb 5, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          I have a 45 year old natural gas (NGA), compressed air brazing torch that has a helical multi start spiral insert in the air passage and the gas enters through an axial hole in the centre of the helix.
          The position of the helix is adjustable up and down the burner tube which has no flare at the end. Hard brass brazes easily.

          Malcolm

          I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!

          Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin

          The writing is on the wall.

          --- On Tue, 2/5/13, michael.a.porter@... <michael.a.porter@...> wrote:

          From: michael.a.porter@... <michael.a.porter@...>
          Subject: Re: [hobbicast] book for sale
          To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 11:08 PM
















           













          How to more easily build 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” size Vortex burners

          The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage stuffing tube as the basic building unit on which to mount the burner’s other parts. Stuffing tubes come already connected to their own bell housings or funnel shapes.

          Their extra wide (and very flat) rims at the open ends of the housings, which are normally employed to help effectively trap them on sausage grinders, promote easy mounting of both axial motor and gas tube onto the opening, and their long tubes can slide easily into still longer mixing tubes, on which spacer rings and flame nozzles can be mounted. This eliminates any need for fit-up and silver brazing of the two parts; it also simplifies mounting the motor and gas fittings.

          Unfortunately stuffing tubes come in a limited amount of sizes; they can only be used to construct 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” burners; 1/8”, 3/16”, 3/4”, or larger than 1” burners require more complicated construction methods.

          The axial DC muffin motor is screwed onto a large square or round washer (depending on which outside shape offers greater convenience) of 5/16” or thicker aluminum sheet that is the same outside diameter as that of the stuffing tube housing’s extra wide rim. The ring’s inside hole matches the smaller diameter of the fan blades.

          Threaded holes are drilled through the washer, which match up with the motor’s four mounting holes. A hole is also drilled from a place at the washer’s edge, clear through to its center hole.

          A 1/8” by eight inch (or longer) annealed copper refrigeration tube, with a piece of capillary tube brazed or soldered into it for a gas jet, and a barbed or threaded hose fitting attached to its other end, is slid through the hole, and bent ninety degrees, pointing down toward the sausage tube’s center (on the opposite face from the motor). Once the gas jet tube is centered, it is glued in place with epoxy or aluminum adhesive.

          LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter bell housing with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($21.55 and shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3 Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. 3/8” tube at 0.375” is only thirty to fifty thousandths smaller than the inside diameter of 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.

          LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter extra-long funnel with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($22.95 and shipping): meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw">http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer; this tube is nearest to 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.

          #32 x 1/2" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($12.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small">http://www.amazon.com/narrow-Stuffing-sausage-Sticks-Weiners/dp/B007WWMX7C/ref=sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer; this tube is nine thousandths larger inside diameter than 3/8” schedule #40 pipe.

          #32 x 3/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD">http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-grinders-LEM-Cabelas/dp/B007WO4VXY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. This tube is one-hundred and eighteen thousandths larger inside diameter than 1/2” schedule #40 pipe.

          #32 x 1-1/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/large-Stuffing-Grinders-Sausage-Making/dp/B007WNWTIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_4 Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. This tube is at least fifty thousandths larger inside diameter than 1” schedule #40 pipe.



          Combination of three different sized (3/8”, 3/4”, and 1-1/4” diameter by 7” long) sausage stuffing tubes, with conical shaped housings ($39.75 and shipping) : http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-Grinder-electric-grinders/dp/B008H51OLE/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD



          Michael Porter



          ----- Original Message -----

          From: michael a porter michael.a.porter@...>

          To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com

          Sent: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 19:06:17 -0000 (UTC)

          Subject: Re: [hobbicast] book for sale



          A few months back I began a discussion here on construction of miniature fan-blown burners for coffee-can furnaces; this led to a discovery, which has kept me busy since then.



          How Vortex burners work



          Spinning a gas/air mixture makes for very good blending of fuel and oxidizer; it creates good turbulence with minimal drag.



          Jet-ejector style burners create spin as the entrained air from a side opening (or multiple openings) is forced to turn through ninety degrees, on its journey down the mixing tube. So, this burner design can be made from a pipe with a flame nozzle on its forward end.



          Linear burners are fed air from the rear; without a funnel shape of some kind attached to the burner’s back, there is nothing to create air spin; thus all the old linear burners you see feature some kind of concentric bell reducer at the rear, and a flame nozzle at the front.



          A gas jet at the entrance of a tube or expanding cone shape creates a low pressure area (Bernoulli’s principle), and ambient air pressure pushes atmosphere into the partial vacuum created by the jet, to equalize pressure; this is called air entrainment, and it makes a pretty dynamic “motor” in naturally aspirated propane burners.



          According to the laws of fluid dynamics a fluid’s rotational velocity increases as its cross sectional area decreases; at the same time fluid pressure is dropping (as positive pressure is transformed into kinetic energy); the liquid whirlpool in your bathtub drain demonstrates these phenomena for anyone “with eyes to see.” The fluid’s forward movement tends to increase at about one-half the speed of rotation.



          Note: In fluid dynamics a “fluid” can consist of a liquid, gas, or plasma.



          If an axial fan is mounted on the mouth (large opening) of a funnel shape, forward momentum and rotational movement are both created before the fluid even starts its progress down the funnel towards its small opening; desirable qualities in the vortical flow being enhanced every bit of the way.



          Thus, air entering the gas jet area mentioned previously is already spinning, at low pressure and has considerably accelerated forward velocity; an ideal feed, which the gas jet accelerates still further. You end up with a kind of double push system that feeds a high volume low pressure gas/air mixture down the burner’s mixing tube and into the flame nozzle, where it is slowed and its pressure is further reduced by the sudden increase in cross sectional area from the mixing tube’s restriction. You now have a fast mixture feed of unusually low pressure behind the flame front, allowing a very fierce flame to be maintained at the nozzle. These are the operational principles of Vortex burners; their construction details may take me years to completely pin down.



          You heard it here first.



          Michael Porter (author of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns).



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Rupert
          Hello guys, I haven t posted in awhile but I ve been reading the mails that came through. I have a question to ask. Does anyone know the proportionate weight
          Message 4 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            Hello guys,
            I haven't posted in awhile but I've been reading the mails that
            came through. I have a question to ask.
            Does anyone know the proportionate weight between MDF and aluminum?
            I have a large casting to make and am not sure if my crucible is
            large enough. The crucible I will use is a steel pipe 5" dia by 10"
            tall. The MDF pattern weighs 2 3/4 lbs. I thought I had this info but
            can't find it now that I need it.
            Thanks for any help in advance.

            Rupert

            --

            yvt

            Rupert Wenig
            Camrose, Alberta, Canada.

            email: rwenig2@...

            http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/
          • tmoranwms
            Google says MDF has a specific gravity of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cc. Which means it ll float in water. Seems heavier than that in my experience. Aluminum is 2.7, so
            Message 5 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              Google says MDF has a specific gravity of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cc. Which means it'll float in water. Seems heavier than that in my experience. Aluminum is 2.7, so you need 5.4 times more, worst case, plus gates and such. If you have a hunk of the stuff of known volume or dimension, you can weigh it and see what your stock actually is.

              Tim

              --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Rupert wrote:
              >
              > Hello guys,
              > I haven't posted in awhile but I've been reading the mails that
              > came through. I have a question to ask.
              > Does anyone know the proportionate weight between MDF and aluminum?
              > I have a large casting to make and am not sure if my crucible is
              > large enough. The crucible I will use is a steel pipe 5" dia by 10"
              > tall. The MDF pattern weighs 2 3/4 lbs. I thought I had this info but
              > can't find it now that I need it.
              > Thanks for any help in advance.
              >
              > Rupert
              >
              > --
              >
              > yvt
              >
              > Rupert Wenig
              > Camrose, Alberta, Canada.
              >
              > email: rwenig2@...
              >
              > http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/
              >
            • Carl
              Rupert:Assuming the id of the crucible is 5 and you fill it 9 deep it should hold just over 17 lbs of aluminum. 5.4 x 2.75 = 14.9lbs. It could be close. Do
              Message 6 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                Rupert:Assuming the id of the crucible is 5" and you fill it 9"deep it should hold just over 17 lbs of aluminum. 5.4 x 2.75 = 14.9lbs. It could be close. Do this: Fill a bucket full of water. Spray your pattern with wax. Place the pattern in the bucket until it is submerged then remove. Fill your crucible with water to the pouring level. Refill the bucket from the crucible. Any extra water in the crucible will be equal in volume to the extra aluminum. Carl   


                ________________________________
                From: tmoranwms <tmoranwms@...>
                To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:38 AM
                Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Proportionate wt of MDF to Al


                 
                Google says MDF has a specific gravity of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cc. Which means it'll float in water. Seems heavier than that in my experience. Aluminum is 2.7, so you need 5.4 times more, worst case, plus gates and such. If you have a hunk of the stuff of known volume or dimension, you can weigh it and see what your stock actually is.

                Tim

                --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Rupert wrote:
                >
                > Hello guys,
                > I haven't posted in awhile but I've been reading the mails that
                > came through. I have a question to ask.
                > Does anyone know the proportionate weight between MDF and aluminum?
                > I have a large casting to make and am not sure if my crucible is
                > large enough. The crucible I will use is a steel pipe 5" dia by 10"
                > tall. The MDF pattern weighs 2 3/4 lbs. I thought I had this info but
                > can't find it now that I need it.
                > Thanks for any help in advance.
                >
                > Rupert
                >
                > --
                >
                > yvt
                >
                > Rupert Wenig
                > Camrose, Alberta, Canada.
                >
                > email: rwenig2@...
                >
                > http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/
                >




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Rupert
                Thanks Guys for the info. I have to double check the dimensions of my crucible. It will be close to the limits. Rupert ... -- yvt Rupert Wenig Camrose,
                Message 7 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  Thanks Guys for the info. I have to double check the dimensions of
                  my crucible. It will be close to the limits.

                  Rupert


                  On 2/10/2013 2:14 PM, Carl wrote:
                  > Rupert:Assuming the id of the crucible is 5" and you fill it 9"deep it should hold just over 17 lbs of aluminum. 5.4 x 2.75 = 14.9lbs. It could be close. Do this: Fill a bucket full of water. Spray your pattern with wax. Place the pattern in the bucket until it is submerged then remove. Fill your crucible with water to the pouring level. Refill the bucket from the crucible. Any extra water in the crucible will be equal in volume to the extra aluminum. Carl
                  >
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: tmoranwms <tmoranwms@...>
                  > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:38 AM
                  > Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Proportionate wt of MDF to Al
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Google says MDF has a specific gravity of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cc. Which means it'll float in water. Seems heavier than that in my experience. Aluminum is 2.7, so you need 5.4 times more, worst case, plus gates and such. If you have a hunk of the stuff of known volume or dimension, you can weigh it and see what your stock actually is.
                  >
                  > Tim
                  >
                  > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Rupert wrote:
                  >> Hello guys,
                  >> I haven't posted in awhile but I've been reading the mails that
                  >> came through. I have a question to ask.
                  >> Does anyone know the proportionate weight between MDF and aluminum?
                  >> I have a large casting to make and am not sure if my crucible is
                  >> large enough. The crucible I will use is a steel pipe 5" dia by 10"
                  >> tall. The MDF pattern weighs 2 3/4 lbs. I thought I had this info but
                  >> can't find it now that I need it.
                  >> Thanks for any help in advance.
                  >>
                  >> Rupert
                  >>
                  >> --
                  >>
                  >> yvt
                  >>
                  >> Rupert Wenig
                  >> Camrose, Alberta, Canada.
                  >>
                  >> email: rwenig2@...
                  >>
                  >> http://users.xplornet.com/~rwenig/Home/
                  >>
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  >
                  >
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                  Rupert Wenig
                  Camrose, Alberta, Canada.

                  email: rwenig2@...

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                • Jeshua Lacock
                  ... Don t forget runners, gates, risers, sprue etc… Cheers, Jeshua Lacock Founder/Engineer 3DTOPO Incorporated Phone: 208.462.4171
                  Message 8 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
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                    On Feb 10, 2013, at 3:54 PM, Rupert wrote:

                    > Thanks Guys for the info. I have to double check the dimensions of
                    > my crucible. It will be close to the limits.

                    Don't forget runners, gates, risers, sprue etc…


                    Cheers,

                    Jeshua Lacock
                    Founder/Engineer
                    3DTOPO Incorporated
                    <http://3DTOPO.com>
                    Phone: 208.462.4171
                  • mikey98118
                    Vortex burner update: Lazy Man’s Vortex Burner The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage stuffing tube as the basic
                    Message 9 of 11 , Feb 10, 2013
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                      Vortex burner update:



                      Lazy Man’s Vortex Burner
                      The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage stuffing tube as the basic building unit on which to mount the burner’s other parts; these tubes come already connected to their own bell housings or funnel shapes, so you don’t have to “braze stainless”; always an expensive construction technique.
                      Their extra wide, and very flat, rims at the open ends of the housings/funnels, (normally employed to help effectively trap them on sausage grinders) promote easy mounting of both axial motor and gas tube onto the opening, and their long tubes can slide easily into still longer mixing tubes, on which spacer rings and flame nozzles can be mounted. This eliminates any need for fit-up and silver brazing of parts; it also simplifies mounting the motor and gas fittings.
                      Unfortunately stuffing tubes come in a limited amount of sizes; they can only be used to construct 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” burners. 1/8”, 3/16”, 3/4”, or larger than 1” burners require more complicated construction methods.
                      The axial fans are low power 5V and 12V DC muffin fans that are run more often than not run on minimum battery power (ex. a 9V battery or wall-wart to power a 12V fan).
                      Your fan is mounted on the backside of a 3/8” thick aluminum, brass, plastic or even wooden washer, which is attached to the funnel rim with screws that are threaded into the washer through larger holes drilled in the rim. The motor mounts over the washer’s inside hole, which matches the motors blade diameter with four screws. A hole is drilled from the washer’s outer edge to the inner hole (aimed at its center).
                      A 1/8” annealed refrigeration tube gets snaked through this hole, and bent down at right angles toward the mixing tube at the funnel’s small end. A 1/2” long copper or brass capillary tube is soldered or brazed into the end of the refrigeration tube; the tube’s other end has a barbed or threaded pipe coupling attached. Pull the tube forward until the gas jet ends about 5/16” short of the funnel’s small opening, center it, and trap it in place with glue, or solder.
                      Note: Use 0.020” orifice size copper or brass capillary tube on 1/4” burner; 0.025” to 0.028” orifice on 3/8” burner; 0.032” orifice size on 1/2” burner; 0.044” to 0.048” orifice on 1” burner.
                      Do not buy the mixing tube, spacer ring, or flame nozzle material until you have the sausage stuffing tube on hand; measure it with cheap digital calipers from Harbor Freight Tools, before going to Onlinemetals.com and ordering the other parts; they should be stainless steel, although D.O.M makes a nice mixing tube. How much work fit-up between stuffing tube stem and the mixing tube (which should be eighteen times the stem's diameter in length depends on plus/minus tolerances in both parts). However, you can power sand only an inch or so for a tight fit in the mixing tube’s end, and slit the stem down its length, leaving only the last inch intact for a tight fit.
                      The spacer ring between mixing tube and flame nozzle should be one inch long, and at least 3/16” thick. The flame nozzle should be 2-1/4” long; both parts should be pinned together in three equally distant places with 10-24 Allen screws, and they should slide freely together on the mixing tube. Sand or file all burrs.
                      Unlike earlier burner designs, there is a lot of “wriggle room” in flame nozzle diameters and tuning parameters.
                      LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter bell housing with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter by 6-3/4” long tube ($21.55 and shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3
                      Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. 3/8” tube at 0.375” is only thirty to fifty thousandths smaller than the inside diameter of 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
                      LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter extra-long funnel with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($22.95 and shipping): http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw This tube is nearest to 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
                      #32 x 1/2" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($12.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/narrow-Stuffing-sausage-Sticks-Weiners/dp/B007WWMX7C/ref=sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small This tube is nine thousandths larger inside diameter than 3/8” schedule #40 pipe.
                      #32 x 3/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-grinders-LEM-Cabelas/dp/B007WO4VXY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD This tube is one-hundred and eighteen thousandths larger inside diameter than 1/2” schedule #40 pipe.
                      #32 x 1-1/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/large-Stuffing-Grinders-Sausage-Making/dp/B007WNWTIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_4 This tube is at least fifty thousandths larger inside diameter than 1” schedule #40 pipe.
                      Combination of three different sized (3/8”, 3/4”, and 1-1/4” diameter by 7” long) sausage stuffing tubes, with conical shaped housings ($39.75 and shipping) : http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-Grinder-electric-grinders/dp/B008H51OLE/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD
                      Michael Porter (author of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns).

                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • smuel10263
                      book iron castings handook for sale 831 pages ex. condition $29 + shipping ray mueller please reply off line or call 314-989-9650
                      Message 10 of 11 , Jul 19
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                        book iron castings handook for sale 831 pages ex. condition  $29 + shipping ray mueller please reply off line or call 314-989-9650

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