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Re: [hobbicast] Re: Mikey Burners

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  • StoneTool
    Mikey: I built 6 of these burners....... that was a LONG time ago. I have one that is a cluster of 3 together which throws a massive fireball and will ice up
    Message 1 of 11 , May 24, 2012
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      Mikey:
      I built 6 of these burners....... that was a LONG time ago. I
      have one that is a cluster of 3 together which throws a massive fireball
      and will ice up a single 100 lb bottle if run for very long.


      Howard

      On 05/23/2012 10:12 AM, Michael Porter wrote:
      > Hi, Stone Tool:
      > Sorry for the slow reply :-)
      > I stumblede across your post while doing research on the Net (rather than the group); wasn't online much in 2006.
      >
      > As you know, I like people to make the burners as many different ways as possible, and then share what they learn with others.
      >
      > The original book was written as help for budding artists, who, having put the time in for their BA degrees, suddenly find themselves pretty much under qualified to do anything in the real world; never having been taught zip about craft work, or introduced to equipment building.
      >
      > Mikey
      >
      > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool<owly@...> wrote:
      >> I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners. to run my big tilting melt
      >> down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
      >> heat out of it I wanted. The first burner was built more or less to
      >> plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well. I'm building
      >> the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
      >> adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
      >> course the choke. The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
      >> place. The air slots are milled with an end mill....... I am leaving
      >> them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
      >> square ended slots. My thinking here is that the end plug where the
      >> nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
      >> ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
      >> choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
      >> The original works beautifully with an .045 tip. I tried an .062 tip
      >> and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
      >> tips on the flame. I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
      >> seem to make much difference. I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
      >> get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes. Gas pressure is about
      >> 25 lbs.
      >> The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........ very
      >> impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
      >> anything like the rate I want. I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
      >> them rather than building a monster. I have all the stuff to make the
      >> 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
      >>
      >> Notes:
      >>
      >> 1: Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
      >> 1.25" black pipe for a choke sleeve. Re: [hobbicast]
      >> BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
      >>
      >> 2: If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
      >> ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
      >> mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
      >>
      >> 3: 1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
      >> welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
      >> and easy bushing for the flare to ride on. Spin it in the
      >> lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
      >> optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
      >>
      >> 4: It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
      >> lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
      >> screws on the nozzle holder. I won't do that again. This
      >> way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
      >> hole.
      >>
      >> 5: An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
      >> allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
      >>
      >>
      >> H.W.
      >>
      >> P.S. Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
      >> Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
      >> I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
      >>
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
      > this list does not accept attachments.
      >
      > Files area and list services are at:
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
      >
      > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
      > check out these two affiliated sites:
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
      >
      > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
      > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
      >
      > List Owner:
      > owly@...
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Michael Porter
      You re welcome Howard. I especially liked the round bar rings as nozzle spacer. Mikey
      Message 2 of 11 , Feb 26, 2013
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        You're welcome Howard.

        I especially liked the round bar rings as nozzle spacer.
        Mikey

        --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool <owly@...> wrote:
        >
        > I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners. to run my big tilting melt
        > down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
        > heat out of it I wanted. The first burner was built more or less to
        > plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well. I'm building
        > the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
        > adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
        > course the choke. The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
        > place. The air slots are milled with an end mill....... I am leaving
        > them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
        > square ended slots. My thinking here is that the end plug where the
        > nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
        > ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
        > choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
        > The original works beautifully with an .045 tip. I tried an .062 tip
        > and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
        > tips on the flame. I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
        > seem to make much difference. I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
        > get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes. Gas pressure is about
        > 25 lbs.
        > The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........ very
        > impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
        > anything like the rate I want. I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
        > them rather than building a monster. I have all the stuff to make the
        > 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
        >
        > Notes:
        >
        > 1: Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
        > 1.25" black pipe for a choke sleeve. Re: [hobbicast]
        > BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
        >
        > 2: If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
        > ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
        > mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
        >
        > 3: 1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
        > welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
        > and easy bushing for the flare to ride on. Spin it in the
        > lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
        > optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
        >
        > 4: It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
        > lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
        > screws on the nozzle holder. I won't do that again. This
        > way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
        > hole.
        >
        > 5: An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
        > allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
        >
        >
        > H.W.
        >
        > P.S. Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
        > Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
        > I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
        >
      • StoneTool
        Boy.......... THAT S AN OLD POST !!! I ve built 5 of these big Mikey burners, three of which are in a single cluster burner. The three burners are joined to
        Message 3 of 11 , Feb 26, 2013
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          Boy.......... THAT'S AN OLD POST !!!

          I've built 5 of these big Mikey burners, three of which are in a
          single cluster burner. The three burners are joined to a 1-3 air
          fitting using copper pipe. A standard shop air fitting designed to
          allow you to run three whip hoses from one primary hose..... inexpensive
          aluminum part. It takes 2 100 lb bottles manifolded together to supply
          enough gas without icing up excessively. The fireball is downright scary!


          Howard



          On 02/26/2013 11:55 AM, Michael Porter wrote:
          > You're welcome Howard.
          >
          > I especially liked the round bar rings as nozzle spacer.
          > Mikey
          >
          > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool<owly@...> wrote:
          >> I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners. to run my big tilting melt
          >> down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
          >> heat out of it I wanted. The first burner was built more or less to
          >> plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well. I'm building
          >> the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
          >> adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
          >> course the choke. The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
          >> place. The air slots are milled with an end mill....... I am leaving
          >> them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
          >> square ended slots. My thinking here is that the end plug where the
          >> nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
          >> ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
          >> choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
          >> The original works beautifully with an .045 tip. I tried an .062 tip
          >> and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
          >> tips on the flame. I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
          >> seem to make much difference. I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
          >> get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes. Gas pressure is about
          >> 25 lbs.
          >> The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........ very
          >> impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
          >> anything like the rate I want. I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
          >> them rather than building a monster. I have all the stuff to make the
          >> 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
          >>
          >> Notes:
          >>
          >> 1: Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
          >> 1.25" black pipe for a choke sleeve. Re: [hobbicast]
          >> BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
          >>
          >> 2: If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
          >> ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
          >> mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
          >>
          >> 3: 1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
          >> welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
          >> and easy bushing for the flare to ride on. Spin it in the
          >> lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
          >> optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
          >>
          >> 4: It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
          >> lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
          >> screws on the nozzle holder. I won't do that again. This
          >> way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
          >> hole.
          >>
          >> 5: An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
          >> allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
          >>
          >>
          >> H.W.
          >>
          >> P.S. Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
          >> Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
          >> I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
          >>
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
          > this list does not accept attachments.
          >
          > Files area and list services are at:
          > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
          >
          > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
          > check out these two affiliated sites:
          > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
          > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
          >
          > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
          > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
          >
          > List Owner:
          > owly@...
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • Michael Porter
          True, but I just stumbled across it on the net, under Mikey burners.
          Message 4 of 11 , Feb 26, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            True, but I just stumbled across it on the net, under Mikey burners.

            --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, StoneTool <owly@...> wrote:
            >
            > Boy.......... THAT'S AN OLD POST !!!
            >
            > I've built 5 of these big Mikey burners, three of which are in a
            > single cluster burner. The three burners are joined to a 1-3 air
            > fitting using copper pipe. A standard shop air fitting designed to
            > allow you to run three whip hoses from one primary hose..... inexpensive
            > aluminum part. It takes 2 100 lb bottles manifolded together to supply
            > enough gas without icing up excessively. The fireball is downright scary!
            >
            >
            > Howard
            >
            >
            >
            > On 02/26/2013 11:55 AM, Michael Porter wrote:
            > > You're welcome Howard.
            > >
            > > I especially liked the round bar rings as nozzle spacer.
            > > Mikey
            > >
            > > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool<owly@> wrote:
            > >> I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners. to run my big tilting melt
            > >> down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
            > >> heat out of it I wanted. The first burner was built more or less to
            > >> plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well. I'm building
            > >> the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
            > >> adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
            > >> course the choke. The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
            > >> place. The air slots are milled with an end mill....... I am leaving
            > >> them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
            > >> square ended slots. My thinking here is that the end plug where the
            > >> nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
            > >> ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
            > >> choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
            > >> The original works beautifully with an .045 tip. I tried an .062 tip
            > >> and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
            > >> tips on the flame. I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
            > >> seem to make much difference. I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
            > >> get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes. Gas pressure is about
            > >> 25 lbs.
            > >> The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........ very
            > >> impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
            > >> anything like the rate I want. I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
            > >> them rather than building a monster. I have all the stuff to make the
            > >> 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
            > >>
            > >> Notes:
            > >>
            > >> 1: Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
            > >> 1.25" black pipe for a choke sleeve. Re: [hobbicast]
            > >> BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
            > >>
            > >> 2: If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
            > >> ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
            > >> mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
            > >>
            > >> 3: 1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
            > >> welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
            > >> and easy bushing for the flare to ride on. Spin it in the
            > >> lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
            > >> optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
            > >>
            > >> 4: It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
            > >> lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
            > >> screws on the nozzle holder. I won't do that again. This
            > >> way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
            > >> hole.
            > >>
            > >> 5: An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
            > >> allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
            > >>
            > >>
            > >> H.W.
            > >>
            > >> P.S. Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
            > >> Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
            > >> I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
            > >>
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > ------------------------------------
            > >
            > > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
            > > this list does not accept attachments.
            > >
            > > Files area and list services are at:
            > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
            > >
            > > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
            > > check out these two affiliated sites:
            > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
            > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
            > >
            > > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
            > > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
            > >
            > > List Owner:
            > > owly@...
            > >
            > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
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