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Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp

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  • Jeshua Lacock
    ... There is absolutely no need to preheat the graphite. Cheers, Jeshua Lacock, Owner phone: 208.462.4171
    Message 1 of 25 , Apr 13, 2010
      On Apr 13, 2010, at 6:23 PM, wheezer wrote:

      > What if you pre-heated the graphite mold
      > in a forge / furnace to ~2000F, then did the
      > iron pour / thermite.

      There is absolutely no need to preheat the graphite.


      Cheers,

      Jeshua Lacock, Owner
      <http://OpenOSX.com>
      phone: 208.462.4171
    • Jeshua Lacock
      ... Indeed. Either hand carve the graphite, or with a CNC machine. Although, if you design the mold right, no need to break it with a hammer, you can make many
      Message 2 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
        On Apr 13, 2010, at 5:33 PM, Pierre Coueffin wrote:

        > Jeshua, if I understand you correctly, you are suggesting taking a
        > hand (or dremel...) carved chunk of graphite, pouring something that
        > resembles a thermite compound over it and lighting it up? Should cast
        > an iron block that is a negative of the mold, then I suppose you'd
        > just break off the mold with a hammer.

        Indeed. Either hand carve the graphite, or with a CNC machine.

        Although, if you design the mold right, no need to break it with a hammer, you can make many many castings from it...

        > Have you tried iron using similar techniques already? I keep looking
        > at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
        > graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved. Going from
        > room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
        > about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely.

        Yes - I have successfully done quite a number of castings with this method.

        The graphite only needs sufficient thickness to hold the weight of the metal. I usually just start with an oversize block and mill it out. For small castings, I think you would want a minimum of 1/8" thick - and I think 1/4" would be better.

        My favorite thermite mix is 2.5-parts iron oxide, 0.5-part titanium dioxide and 1 part aluminum powder...

        This will result in beautiful stainless ferro-titaniumn (about 20% titanium 80% iron)...


        Cheers,

        Jeshua Lacock, Owner
        <http://OpenOSX.com>
        phone: 208.462.4171
      • jeff moore
        Is that mix by wt. or volume? ... From: Jeshua Lacock To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 3:26 AM Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family
        Message 3 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
          Is that mix by wt. or volume?
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Jeshua Lacock
          To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 3:26 AM
          Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp




          On Apr 13, 2010, at 5:33 PM, Pierre Coueffin wrote:

          > Jeshua, if I understand you correctly, you are suggesting taking a
          > hand (or dremel...) carved chunk of graphite, pouring something that
          > resembles a thermite compound over it and lighting it up? Should cast
          > an iron block that is a negative of the mold, then I suppose you'd
          > just break off the mold with a hammer.

          Indeed. Either hand carve the graphite, or with a CNC machine.

          Although, if you design the mold right, no need to break it with a hammer, you can make many many castings from it...

          > Have you tried iron using similar techniques already? I keep looking
          > at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
          > graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved. Going from
          > room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
          > about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely.

          Yes - I have successfully done quite a number of castings with this method.

          The graphite only needs sufficient thickness to hold the weight of the metal. I usually just start with an oversize block and mill it out. For small castings, I think you would want a minimum of 1/8" thick - and I think 1/4" would be better.

          My favorite thermite mix is 2.5-parts iron oxide, 0.5-part titanium dioxide and 1 part aluminum powder...

          This will result in beautiful stainless ferro-titaniumn (about 20% titanium 80% iron)...

          Cheers,

          Jeshua Lacock, Owner
          <http://OpenOSX.com>
          phone: 208.462.4171





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Jeshua Lacock
          ... By weight. Cheers, Jeshua Lacock, Owner phone: 208.462.4171
          Message 4 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
            On Apr 14, 2010, at 2:02 AM, jeff moore wrote:

            > Is that mix by wt. or volume?

            By weight.


            Cheers,

            Jeshua Lacock, Owner
            <http://OpenOSX.com>
            phone: 208.462.4171
          • Todd
            Graphite is electrically conductive. Could you just arc-weld into the mold? Or even torch-braze? Todd ... From: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
            Message 5 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
              Graphite is electrically conductive.
              Could you just arc-weld into the mold?
              Or even torch-braze?
              Todd


              -----Original Message-----
              From: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com [mailto:hobbicast@yahoogroups.com] On
              Behalf Of Pierre Coueffin
              Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:33 PM
              To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Family Crest Stamp




              Jeshua, if I understand you correctly, you are suggesting taking a
              hand (or dremel...) carved chunk of graphite, pouring something that
              resembles a thermite compound over it and lighting it up? Should cast
              an iron block that is a negative of the mold, then I suppose you'd
              just break off the mold with a hammer.

              I'm very interested in this process. I've been playing with a few
              commercial cadweld units that were given to me by a guy who thought
              I'd find them interesting... They cast a copper alloy (probably a
              brass or bronze, but I'm not exactly sure of the composition) using a
              thin porcelain mold. The ceramic is less than 1/8" thick and seems to
              hold several ounces of hellfire long enough to bond everything
              solidly.

              Have you tried iron using similar techniques already? I keep looking
              at it as an option, but I have no idea how thick of a block of
              graphite I'd want to contain the thermal shock involved. Going from
              room temperature to molten iron in 5 seconds or so makes me worry
              about shattering the mold, and letting the hot stuff out prematurely.

              On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:16 PM, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@openosx.
              <mailto:jeshua%40openosx.com> com> wrote:
              > If you have a graphite mold you could even cast it yourself using an
              aluminothermic reaction. You could cast it out of stainless steel or
              ferotitanium (which is also stainless).






              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Nick Andrews
              We used cadwelds to bond wire to ground rods in fiber manholes. They did seem to work better and make a cleaner bond if we preheated them with a torch. These
              Message 6 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
                We used cadwelds to bond wire to ground rods in fiber manholes. They did
                seem to work better and make a cleaner bond if we preheated them with a
                torch. These molds are big blocks of graphite which clamp around the part
                to weld to.

                On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:23 AM, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:

                >
                >
                >
                > On Apr 13, 2010, at 6:23 PM, wheezer wrote:
                >
                > > What if you pre-heated the graphite mold
                > > in a forge / furnace to ~2000F, then did the
                > > iron pour / thermite.
                >
                > There is absolutely no need to preheat the graphite.
                >
                > Cheers,
                >
                >
                > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                > <http://OpenOSX.com>
                > phone: 208.462.4171
                >
                >
                >



                --
                Nick A

                "You know what I wish? I wish that all the scum of the world had but a
                single throat, and I had my hands about it..." Rorschach, 1975

                "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety
                deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review
                of Pennsylvania, 1759

                "Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
                streets after them." Bill Vaughan

                "The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men."
                Plato


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • The Loewen's
                Home Foundrymen s discussion forum on home metal castingIt is also possible if you have a CAD drawing of your crest to have it wax part printed and have a
                Message 7 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
                  Home Foundrymen's discussion forum on home metal castingIt is also possible if you have a CAD drawing of your crest to have it wax part printed and have a stainless steel (or any metal) pattern investement casted. There are numerous places that offer this.

                  Kent
                  MB,Canada




                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Jeshua Lacock
                  ... The iron-oxide alumnothermic reaction produces 3,000F molten iron which is well above the melting temperature of cast iron. And in fact, there is much heat
                  Message 8 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
                    On Apr 14, 2010, at 8:06 AM, Nick Andrews wrote:

                    > We used cadwelds to bond wire to ground rods in fiber manholes. They did
                    > seem to work better and make a cleaner bond if we preheated them with a
                    > torch. These molds are big blocks of graphite which clamp around the part
                    > to weld to.

                    The iron-oxide alumnothermic reaction produces 3,000F molten iron which is well above the melting temperature of cast iron.

                    And in fact, there is much heat to spare. The iron typically stays fluid for a long time which allows the graphite to be plenty hot before the iron has any chance to solidify.


                    Cheers,

                    Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                    <http://OpenOSX.com>
                    phone: 208.462.4171
                  • Nick Andrews
                    I think what the torch was doing for us was driving moisture out of the molds. ... -- Nick A You know what I wish? I wish that all the scum of the world had
                    Message 9 of 25 , Apr 14, 2010
                      I think what the torch was doing for us was driving moisture out of the
                      molds.

                      On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 1:00 PM, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:

                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > On Apr 14, 2010, at 8:06 AM, Nick Andrews wrote:
                      >
                      > > We used cadwelds to bond wire to ground rods in fiber manholes. They did
                      > > seem to work better and make a cleaner bond if we preheated them with a
                      > > torch. These molds are big blocks of graphite which clamp around the part
                      > > to weld to.
                      >
                      > The iron-oxide alumnothermic reaction produces 3,000F molten iron which is
                      > well above the melting temperature of cast iron.
                      >
                      > And in fact, there is much heat to spare. The iron typically stays fluid
                      > for a long time which allows the graphite to be plenty hot before the iron
                      > has any chance to solidify.
                      >
                      >
                      > Cheers,
                      >
                      > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                      > <http://OpenOSX.com>
                      > phone: 208.462.4171
                      >
                      >
                      >



                      --
                      Nick A

                      "You know what I wish? I wish that all the scum of the world had but a
                      single throat, and I had my hands about it..." Rorschach, 1975

                      "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety
                      deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review
                      of Pennsylvania, 1759

                      "Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
                      streets after them." Bill Vaughan

                      "The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men."
                      Plato


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Walt
                      I ran across this outfit and emailed the guy that was looking for a stamp, but thought others may be interested in where to maybe get one done
                      Message 10 of 25 , May 5, 2010
                        I ran across this outfit and emailed the guy that was looking for a stamp, but thought others may be interested in where to maybe get one done

                        http://www.incandescent-iron.com/custom-touchmark-tools.html

                        Walt
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