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Re: Lost foam adhesive

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  • Norm
    I can add from my limited experience. The poly type of glue like Gorilla glue did not work for me. It held the pieces of styrofoam well but the liquid aluminum
    Message 1 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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      I can add from my limited experience.
      The poly type of glue like Gorilla glue did not work for me.
      It held the pieces of styrofoam well but the liquid
      aluminum could not melt it fast enough to take its place and it
      screwed up the part I was casting (several time).

      I am now trying 3M spray Super 77 to hold the pieces of styrofoam but
      I have not used it in a casting yet. this week-end maybe :)

      Norm


      --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "rogers92026" <brogers9941@...> wrote:
      >
      > I finally built a hot-wire styrofoam cutter. (Fun project!)
      >
      > My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to use
      > to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm stacking
      > several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?
      >
      > Bruce
      >
    • Jeshua Lacock
      ... I like to use needles (as nails). It does not introduce any impurities (like glue can) and only reinforces your final casting.... Or, I sometimes I smear
      Message 2 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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        On May 18, 2007, at 2:08 PM, rogers92026 wrote:

        > My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to use
        > to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm stacking
        > several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?


        I like to use needles (as nails). It does not introduce any
        impurities (like glue can) and only reinforces your final casting....

        Or, I sometimes I smear on a little bit of wax on each piece then
        heat and mend them together.

        If you use hot glue, make sure to use it very sparingly and in very
        thin points. I have had some problems with hot glue when it is too
        thick (it vaporizes much slower than the foam. Whenever possible the
        foam should be surface to surface with foam, use the adhesive
        sparingly around the perimeter...


        Cheers,

        Jeshua Lacock, Owner
        <http://OpenOSX.com>
        phone: 877.240.1364
      • hillwizard2@aol.com
        Hi Bruce I use Elmer s white glue. Most of the time I put the pieces together and just glue on the edges Mike the Hillwizard In a message dated 5/18/2007
        Message 3 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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          Hi Bruce

          I use Elmer's white glue. Most of the time I put the pieces together and
          just glue on the edges



          Mike the Hillwizard




          In a message dated 5/18/2007 3:32:18 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
          brogers9941@... writes:

          My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to use
          to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm stacking
          several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?

          Bruce







          ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Jack
          Almost any white craft (pva) glue is just fine. DON T use white or yellow cross-linked woodworking glues as they vaporize much slower than foam. Mostly I use
          Message 4 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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            Almost any white craft (pva) glue is just fine.

            DON'T use white or yellow 'cross-linked' woodworking glues as they
            vaporize much slower than foam.

            Mostly I use clear office gum. I also use the office gum for 'glue
            chucking' pieces of foam onto a face plate for turning or milling -
            use mounted abrasives (wheels, balls, cones etc) instead of end mills
            Jack




            --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, hillwizard2@... wrote:
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Hi Bruce
            >
            > I use Elmer's white glue. Most of the time I put the pieces
            together and
            > just glue on the edges
            >
            >
            >
            > Mike the Hillwizard
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > In a message dated 5/18/2007 3:32:18 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
            > brogers9941@... writes:
            >
            > My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to
            use
            > to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm
            stacking
            > several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?
            >
            > Bruce
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ************************************** See what's free at
            http://www.aol.com
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • Daniel C Postellon
            Toothpicks work. 3M makes a good spray adhesive. You could try double-faced masking tape, too.
            Message 5 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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              Toothpicks work. 3M makes a good spray adhesive. You could try
              double-faced masking tape, too.

              >
              > On May 18, 2007, at 2:08 PM, rogers92026 wrote:
              >
              >> My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to use
              >> to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm stacking
              >> several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?
              >
              >
              > I like to use needles (as nails). It does not introduce any
              > impurities (like glue can) and only reinforces your final casting....
              >
              > Or, I sometimes I smear on a little bit of wax on each piece then
              > heat and mend them together.
              >
              > If you use hot glue, make sure to use it very sparingly and in very
              > thin points. I have had some problems with hot glue when it is too
              > thick (it vaporizes much slower than the foam. Whenever possible the
              > foam should be surface to surface with foam, use the adhesive
              > sparingly around the perimeter...
              >
              >
              > Cheers,
              >
              > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
              > <http://OpenOSX.com>
              > phone: 877.240.1364
              >
              >
              >
            • Jeshua Lacock
              ... True, but the advantage as far as I can see with pins is that the do not produce impurities. Burning wood and other glues certainly will. I have done many
              Message 6 of 16 , May 18, 2007
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                On May 18, 2007, at 8:45 PM, Daniel C Postellon wrote:

                > Toothpicks work. 3M makes a good spray adhesive. You could try
                > double-faced masking tape, too.

                True, but the advantage as far as I can see with pins is that the do
                not produce impurities.

                Burning wood and other glues certainly will. I have done many tests
                with wood and in fact the impurities will color the aluminum by way
                of a natural anodized layer that ranges in yellow hues with little
                wood impurities to greens and blues with additional impurities and
                finally black with lots of wood vapor...

                I would be careful with spray glues as many types can melt and deform
                your foam pattern...


                Regards,

                Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                <http://OpenOSX.com>
                phone: 877.240.1364
              • Chris Horne
                ... If the pins are made of the same material as the casting metal then yes, otherwise you are introducing dissimilar metals which can cause all sorts of nasty
                Message 7 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                  --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
                  >
                  <<<SNIP
                  >
                  > True, but the advantage as far as I can see with pins is that the do
                  > not produce impurities.
                  >


                  If the pins are made of the same material as the casting metal then yes,
                  otherwise you are introducing dissimilar metals which can cause all
                  sorts of nasty things over the long term... far nastier in fact than
                  a bit of organic fuming.

                  Chris
                • Jeshua Lacock
                  ... Last time I checked, the steel pins did not melt in the aluminum. FYI: steel melts at considerably higher temperatures than aluminum and has not been an
                  Message 8 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                    On May 19, 2007, at 7:12 AM, Chris Horne wrote:

                    > True, but the advantage as far as I can see with pins is that the do
                    > > not produce impurities.
                    > >
                    >
                    > If the pins are made of the same material as the casting metal then
                    > yes,
                    > otherwise you are introducing dissimilar metals which can cause all
                    > sorts of nasty things over the long term... far nastier in fact than
                    > a bit of organic fuming.


                    Last time I checked, the steel pins did not melt in the aluminum.

                    FYI: steel melts at considerably higher temperatures than aluminum
                    and has not been an issue thus far.

                    If you prefer glue than use it. I have only stated what works best
                    for me.


                    Regards,

                    Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                    <http://OpenOSX.com>
                    phone: 877.240.1364
                  • Norm
                    I can understand the advantage of pins but if you plan to machine the parts in a lathe or mill after the casting is done, wouldn t having steel pins in there
                    Message 9 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                      I can understand the advantage of pins but if you plan to
                      machine the parts in a lathe or mill after the casting is done,
                      wouldn't having steel pins in there cause problems?

                      Norm



                      --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > On May 19, 2007, at 7:12 AM, Chris Horne wrote:
                      >
                      > > True, but the advantage as far as I can see with pins is that the do
                      > > > not produce impurities.
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > > If the pins are made of the same material as the casting metal then
                      > > yes,
                      > > otherwise you are introducing dissimilar metals which can cause all
                      > > sorts of nasty things over the long term... far nastier in fact than
                      > > a bit of organic fuming.
                      >
                      >
                      > Last time I checked, the steel pins did not melt in the aluminum.
                      >
                      > FYI: steel melts at considerably higher temperatures than aluminum
                      > and has not been an issue thus far.
                      >
                      > If you prefer glue than use it. I have only stated what works best
                      > for me.
                      >
                      >
                      > Regards,
                      >
                      > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                      > <http://OpenOSX.com>
                      > phone: 877.240.1364
                      >
                    • Jeshua Lacock
                      ... For one, I have never had a pin located where it was machined. For two, I suspect that the pin would just get machined like your part.. I suppose you could
                      Message 10 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                        On May 19, 2007, at 4:10 PM, Norm wrote:

                        > I can understand the advantage of pins but if you plan to
                        > machine the parts in a lathe or mill after the casting is done,
                        > wouldn't having steel pins in there cause problems?

                        For one, I have never had a pin located where it was machined. For
                        two, I suspect that the pin would just get machined like your part..

                        I suppose you could always snap it off (with a pair of needle nose)
                        and sand it down on your wheel...


                        Cheers,

                        Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                        <http://OpenOSX.com>
                        phone: 877.240.1364
                      • Jack
                        Back to the adhesive part of this thread: I have not tried this but I suspect it would work - use bathroom silicone. I know it will burn out because I did a
                        Message 11 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                          Back to the adhesive part of this thread: I have not tried this but I
                          suspect it would work - use bathroom silicone. I know it will burn
                          out because I did a melt a week or so ago which contained many pieces
                          of scrap with blobs of clear silicone stuck to 'em. Absolutely no
                          sign of the blobs when it came pour time. Speed of burnout would be
                          the main question, but very thin film would probably help. I propose
                          to test this with my next built-up mold.

                          Another thought: the silicone may be ok for brass because of the
                          higher temp?
                          Jack





                          --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > On May 19, 2007, at 4:10 PM, Norm wrote:
                          >
                          > > I can understand the advantage of pins but if you plan to
                          > > machine the parts in a lathe or mill after the casting is done,
                          > > wouldn't having steel pins in there cause problems?
                          >
                          > For one, I have never had a pin located where it was machined. For
                          > two, I suspect that the pin would just get machined like your part..
                          >
                          > I suppose you could always snap it off (with a pair of needle
                          nose)
                          > and sand it down on your wheel...
                          >
                          >
                          > Cheers,
                          >
                          > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
                          > <http://OpenOSX.com>
                          > phone: 877.240.1364
                          >
                        • Rodney Grantham
                          ... I use ordinary rubber cement. It is contact cement so it must dry completely before putting the pieces together. Sometimes a second coat is helpful.
                          Message 12 of 16 , May 19, 2007
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                            --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "rogers92026" <brogers9941@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > I finally built a hot-wire styrofoam cutter. (Fun project!)
                            >
                            > My question for the group: what are some acceptable adhesives to use
                            > to glue various piece of styrofoam together (such as if I'm stacking
                            > several layers) that will burn-out okay in the lost-foam process ?
                            >
                            > Bruce
                            >

                            I use ordinary rubber cement. It is contact cement so it must dry
                            completely before putting the pieces together. Sometimes a second coat
                            is helpful. Rubber cement also helps fill surface voids, although the
                            texture of the foam will still show on finished casting.

                            Rod
                          • Ray
                            I use either UHU school and office paper glue in the roll on stick or else white PVC wood glue if you need a bit more strength. If possible make your model one
                            Message 13 of 16 , May 20, 2007
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                              I use either UHU school and office paper glue in the roll on stick or
                              else white PVC wood glue if you need a bit more strength. If possible
                              make your model one night and cast the next.

                              I use pins for holding the pieces together while the glue dries and
                              remove before casting.

                              This week I cast an aluminium bearing mount (double ended) and after
                              maching on the 9x20 it works great!

                              Ray
                              Perth Western Australia.
                            • Bruce Hoover
                              Hello I use hot glue just around the edges to seal out the plaster. I have cast many parts that were cut out of blue foam then glued together in this manor. A
                              Message 14 of 16 , May 20, 2007
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                                Hello
                                I use hot glue just around the edges to seal out the plaster. I have cast many parts that were cut out of blue foam then glued together in this manor. A friend of mine is helping me with some parts and he found a cool way to coat the foam blanks. he thinned down drywall mud and used a cheap paint gun to spray on the mud. several coats with a chance to dry in between works great.

                                Hope this helps
                                Bruce


                                Bruce Hoover

                                ---------------------------------
                                Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
                                Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • Jack
                                The only problem I have with the UHU or pva glues is when I plaster the model, the water etches the glue and lets plaster into the joint. What I need is a glue
                                Message 15 of 16 , May 22, 2007
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                                  The only problem I have with the UHU or pva glues is when I plaster the
                                  model, the water etches the glue and lets plaster into the joint. What
                                  I need is a glue that dries waterproof or a non-water-based
                                  investment/plaster that won't burn off during the pour. I have tried
                                  protecting the joints with a strip of masking tape, but this is not
                                  always feasible due to odd shapes.
                                  Jack




                                  --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <pemby200@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > I use either UHU school and office paper glue in the roll on stick or
                                  > else white PVC wood glue if you need a bit more strength. If possible
                                  > make your model one night and cast the next.
                                  >
                                  > I use pins for holding the pieces together while the glue dries and
                                  > remove before casting.
                                  >
                                  > This week I cast an aluminium bearing mount (double ended) and after
                                  > maching on the 9x20 it works great!
                                  >
                                  > Ray
                                  > Perth Western Australia.
                                  >
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