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Re: What is the best spot to place a pyrometer?

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  • Lyle
    Not on the furnace at all. Just dip the tip below the slag. I would agree that they are not necessary but they really help if you want to get consistant
    Message 1 of 53 , Mar 1, 2007
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      Not on the furnace at all. Just dip the tip below the slag. I would
      agree that they are not necessary but they really help if you want to
      get consistant surface finish. If you pour too hot, your castings
      become rougher looking as the metal has less surface tension and
      follows the countours inbetween the sand grains. I had an artist over
      here who knocked mine over (my fault for having it there) and since
      then it hasent worked but I'm getting a new one. Unfortunetely MIFCO
      has changed the size of their guage and you cannot put a new guage
      into an old housing....
      PS I do have a digital temp control on my heat treat/burnout furnace
      (which I also use for melting from time to time) and in that case it
      does help.

      --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, G Von Torne <geo98506@...> wrote:
      > come on guys jump on this topic
      > You don't want the pyrometer mounted on the furnace if your
      > is to cast metal with this furnace.
      > If you mount it to the furnace it will only measure the temp of
      > flame,and that will be much higher than the temp of what's in the
      > Unless you know what alloy your casting and know how well your
      > fill, will they fill with metal at 1200 *F
      > 1250? maybe 1275 or would they fill at 1100 *F
      > you don't know will 1200 *F be too hot for what you melting this
      > result in a very porous casting
      > A pyrometer is nice window dressing but not necessary, I've been
      > casting for a long time and have three pyrometers I don't think I
      > have had any of them out of their boxes in the last six or seven
      > years if you want repeatability you will need to know a lot about
      > the alloy you use and keep good records of you previous castings
      > this alloy
      > Now I know I'm going to get flamed by a lot of you, but I'll tell
      > guys how I do it and hardly ever have any problems
      > with my pours or my castings.
      > I melt how ever much metal I think I will need for the pour at hand
      > watch it and when it melts I use a wire to feel for any unmelted
      > when what is in the crucible is liquid I had a cold piece of metal
      > it and stir the pot ever so gently when I can't feel the last piece
      > in the crucible I turn off the heat and remove the metal and pour.
      > I don't think I've had a hot short pour in over six years and I
      > get porosity because I pour when the metal is first liquid.
      > OK guys my shields are up so fire your best shot at me
      > But before you slam me, let me ask you how many porous castings
      > you poured by super heating you metal?
      > I won't get into the skimming issue but I will tell you I don't.
      > I forgot to skim once and poured the mold.
      > I cut that part into about twenty pieces and could not find
      > wrong with the casting So from then on I just pour out from under
      > dross. of which I have never had to much of because I don't super
      > Use what you want and do what ever you want but this works well for
      > George in Oly, Wa.
      > At 03:56 PM 2/28/2007, you wrote:
      > >I just added foto's of my new build furnace to this group (see
      > >Another furnace). Now I need to drill a hole for the pyrometer and
      > >is my assumption to do this in such a way that the measuring tip
      is as
      > >far away from the burner as possible.
      > >
      > >But then at what hight should I place is? E.g. halfway the
      > >
      > >Anyone with some knowledge and/or experience and/or thoughts on
      were is
      > >the best spot to place it?
      > >
      > >-Jaap-
      > >
      > >
    • Dave
      Ok you can turn your monitor the right way up now. Didn t even think about rhe angle the pictures were at. ... look like. ... photo editing ... that way ... to
      Message 53 of 53 , Mar 10, 2007
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        Ok you can turn your monitor the right way up now. Didn't even think
        about rhe angle the pictures were at.

        --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "joe" <jalign@...> wrote:
        > Nice pictures Dave that gives me a better idea of what the risers
        look like.
        > I noticed the pictures are sideways, I downloaded a different
        photo editing
        > programfor my computer to rotate the pictures before I post them,
        that way
        > I don't have to tip my monitor on it's side to look at them. (grin)
        > Joe in PDX
        > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <odd_kins@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Joe I'm adding some pictures to my album that might help. I had
        > > double role the mold as the cope would drop out when pulling the
        > > cope flask off. This casting is 8"X4"X2.5" so about the same as
        > > of your pockets. I poured the mold cold, with 6061alloy, but the
        > > gating system is not what I wanted. Tried to force the pattern
        > > gating into too small of a flask, the gate was only 5/8 away
        > > the pattern and it broke.
        > >
        > >
        > ===snip==
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