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Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions

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  • Bob Rogers
    Any size can work, but the finer the grain, the better your detail. The foundry I used to work at used AFS 90, but we did large castins and finish wasn t
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 9, 2000
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      Any size can work, but the finer the grain, the better your detail. The
      foundry I used to work at used AFS 90, but we did large castins and finish
      wasn't important. For small, nonferrous, get it tight. When I started
      habbycasting, a local industrial supplier of sandblast sand had what they
      called 'sugar' sand. I figured it was about a 120 grit size, and it gave
      very good detail. I'm now using Jerry's Green Diamond for excellant
      results, but it is'nt available everywhere - It wasn't expensive, but
      shipping tripled the cost. Sandblast sand cost me $6/ 100lb. A key for
      mixing your own sand is you want clean, sharp, and size segregated sand.
      Let's not start talking about silica again.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: geoff <cyrano@...>
      To: <hobbicast@egroups.com>
      Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:58 PM
      Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions


      > What screen sizes are needed for green sand casting' that is, what is
      optional screen size? Thanks, geoff
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Buchanan, James (Jim) <jambuch@...>
      > To: hobbicast@egroups.com <hobbicast@egroups.com>
      > Date: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:59 PM
      > Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Term Definitions
      >
      >
      > Bob:
      >
      > I guess my green sand doesn't know any better. I get acceptable
      results
      > without a muller. Just mix it with a shovel after shaking out a mold
      and
      > I am ready to go again. I remove the hard crust next to the casting
      and
      > place it on the concrete garage floor and step on it to break it up.
      I
      > run it through the screen I use to screen the sand when making a mold
      to
      > remove any lumps that have not been broken up. Then mix it back in
      with
      > the other sand and temper.
      >
      > Bob Rogers wrote:
      > >
      > > Jeff,
      > > To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary when
      mixing
      > > up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work. The
      wetting
      > > agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the clay
      must
      > > coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or
      adhesion.
      > > Just stir them together and it will never work. Rejuvenating sand
      that has
      > > gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good
      mixing works.
      > > I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank' or
      > > naturally bonded sand.
      > >
      >
      > --
      > James Buchanan
      > Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA
      > Two Truck Climax Locomotive Operator & Builder
      >
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    • tgriner1@juno.com
      Jim, Sounds to me like you are doing the work of a muller. After all, the muller smashes the lumps out, and mixes the used and unused sands together. Terry
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 10, 2000
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        Jim,
        Sounds to me like you are doing the work of a muller. After all, the
        muller 'smashes' the lumps out, and mixes the used and unused sands
        together.
        Terry Griner
        Columbus Ohio USA


        On Fri, 09 Jun 2000 21:53:40 -0400 "Buchanan, James (Jim)"
        <jambuch@...> writes:
        > Bob:
        >
        > I guess my green sand doesn't know any better. I get acceptable
        > results
        > without a muller. Just mix it with a shovel after shaking out a mold
        > and
        > I am ready to go again. I remove the hard crust next to the casting
        > and
        > place it on the concrete garage floor and step on it to break it up.
        > I
        > run it through the screen I use to screen the sand when making a
        > mold to
        > remove any lumps that have not been broken up. Then mix it back in
        > with
        > the other sand and temper.
        >
        > Bob Rogers wrote:
        > >
        > > Jeff,
        > > To expand on what Charles said, mulling is absolutely necessary
        > when mixing
        > > up new green sand from scratch, and it takes a lot of work. The
        > wetting
        > > agent (water or oil) dampens the clay (us. bentonite), then the
        > clay must
        > > coat each grain of sand for the batch to have good strength or
        > adhesion.
        > > Just stir them together and it will never work. Rejuvenating sand
        > that has
        > > gotten weak from use is easier, a little water or oil and good
        > mixing works.
        > > I suggest finding premixed from whatever source, or maybe 'bank'
        > or
        > > naturally bonded sand.
        > >
        >
        > --
        > James Buchanan
        > Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA
        > Two Truck Climax Locomotive Operator & Builder
        >
        >
        ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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        > Dad Only Has One
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        >

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