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Re: Manual Cement MIxer?

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  • cvedrick
    ... drills were ... Must be a Milwauke, they have been in production since before WWII and they are the only company I know that still uses steel gearing and
    Message 1 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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      --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "WDSmith" <mediasmith@c...> wrote:
      > Not a chance! I have an American-made drill from the days when
      drills were
      > drills, ships were made of wood and all the sheep were nervous.

      Must be a Milwauke, they have been in production since before WWII
      and they are the only company I know that still uses steel gearing
      and motor shafts.


      Nervous sheep? Are you from montana? (yea I know VERY poor taste)
    • Ron Thompson
      I don t think this will work. It takes a lot of power to push the sand mix around. Mullers are made from plate steel and have pretty tough gearboxes in the
      Message 2 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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        I don't think this will work. It takes a lot of power to push the sand mix around. Mullers are made from plate steel and have pretty tough gearboxes in the drive train. Think of a hundred pounds of cookie dough.

        Ron Thompson
        On the Beautiful Mississippi Gulf Coast
        USA

        Email me for current special offers on items from http://www.plansandprojects.com

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: wnl00
        To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:50 PM
        Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Manual Cement MIxer?


        That's a cool looking gadget. I recently found a discarded lawn
        spreader with a round hopper (Central Model 600B) that I was thinking
        about making a muller from. It seems to me that all it would need is
        a S-shaped blade in place of the stirer. If one got tired of pushing
        the spreader/muller around, one could attach a motor and belt to one
        wheel. I'm sorry that I couldn't find a picture of the spreader to
        link you to, but the hopper is about the size of a five gallon bucket
        and the bottom tapers like a funnel.

        Bill Liles
        wnliles@...




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      • WDSmith
        Not a chance! I have an American-made drill from the days when drills were drills, ships were made of wood and all the sheep were nervous. wds (I also use it
        Message 3 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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          Not a chance! I have an American-made drill from the days when drills were
          drills, ships were made of wood and all the sheep were nervous.

          wds
          (I also use it for digging post holes.)

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>

          > Ya, and burn up the drill motor running it.
          >
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > From: "WDSmith" <mediasmith@...>
          >
          > > Forget all that. I was in "Lumber 2" today (regional discount lumber
          yard)
          > > and saw ready-made mullers for $11. Just add 1/2 inch drill and a
          plastic
          > > bucket.
          > >
        • WDSmith
          ... From: cvedrick ... /// It has been said that all of my taste is in my mouth. I can t argue with that so I LOVE IT!!! WDSmith ...
          Message 4 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "cvedrick" <cvedrick@...>
            >
            > Must be a Milwauke, they have been in production since before WWII
            > and they are the only company I know that still uses steel gearing
            > and motor shafts.

            /// As a matter of fact...
            >
            > Nervous sheep? Are you from montana? (yea I know VERY poor taste)
            >
            /// It has been said that all of my taste is in my mouth. I can't argue with
            that so I LOVE IT!!!

            WDSmith

            >
            >
            > This list is for discussion of metal casting
            > and does not accept attachments. For off topic discussion and to share
            photos and stuff: join Sandcrabs by sending a blank message to:
            sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
            > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
            > or join the Coffee Lounge group (by approval)
            > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast_coffee_lounge/
            >
            > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
            > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
            >
            > Files area and list services are at:
            > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
            >
            > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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            >
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            email:
            > owly@...
            >
            >
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
          • Richard Spelling
            Back when sex was safe and bikers were dangerous? ... From: WDSmith To: Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 1:12
            Message 5 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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              Back when sex was safe and bikers were dangerous?

              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "WDSmith" <mediasmith@...>
              To: <hobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 1:12 PM
              Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Manual Cement MIxer?


              > Not a chance! I have an American-made drill from the days when drills were
              > drills, ships were made of wood and all the sheep were nervous.
              >
              > wds
              > (I also use it for digging post holes.)
              >
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
              >
              > > Ya, and burn up the drill motor running it.
              > >
              > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > From: "WDSmith" <mediasmith@...>
              > >
              > > > Forget all that. I was in "Lumber 2" today (regional discount lumber
              > yard)
              > > > and saw ready-made mullers for $11. Just add 1/2 inch drill and a
              > plastic
              > > > bucket.
              > > >
              >
              >
              > This list is for discussion of metal casting
              > and does not accept attachments. For off topic discussion and to share photos and stuff: join Sandcrabs by sending a blank
              message to: sandcrabs-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
              > or join the Coffee Lounge group (by approval)
              > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast_coffee_lounge/
              >
              > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
              > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
              >
              > Files area and list services are at:
              > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
              >
              > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
              > hobbicast-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              >
              > For problems that cannot be otherwise solved contact the list owner by email:
              > owly@...
              >
              >
              >
              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              >
              >
              >
            • Thomas H Stucklen
              I have 2 1/2 drills I use with mine, (which is sounding different design same purpose). The first is a Milwalkie hammer drill, the old style certa 1950 s. The
              Message 6 of 19 , Apr 3, 2003
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                I have 2 1/2" drills I use with mine, (which is sounding different
                design same purpose). The first is a Milwalkie hammer drill, the old
                style certa 1950's. The second is a vandoren which was desighned for
                structural steel and actually worked 2 years on the Empire State
                Building. That one can trow a 200 pound man quite a distance away
                when she grabs.

                Thomas H Stucklen
                144 Rocky Mt Rd
                Kerhonkson,NY 12446
                tomstuck@...
                tomstuck@...
                http://www.ths18.thehot50.com/

                --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "cvedrick" <cvedrick@y...> wrote:
                > I got mine at a tile supply place.
                >
                > It has 4 steel propeller blades at the end of an octogonal shaft.
                >
                > It is designed for grout and other non aggregate products.
                >
                > I got mine for mixing exterior stucco.
                >
                > It works well for slightly runny materials like sanded portland or
                > straight portland that is mixed to a "good milkshake" consistency.
                I
                > usually mix till a trowell stands straight up, but when passed
                > through, the mix, leaves a trench such that the sides slump
                slightly
                > but do not touch the bottom.
                >
                > For drier aggregate mixes, this is not at all good. It will over
                > work your drill and not mix the material thouroughly. (I use a
                > Milwaukee 1/2" industrial drill by the way)
                >
                > For reasonable amounts of water bonded sand and low cost, use the
                > hand tool method posted earlier in this thread.
                >
                > Or if you just have to try it, you will have to use excessive water
                > to mix it, say around 15% by weight and then let it dry out for a
                few
                > days or weeks. After which you will need to de-lump and sift it,
                > probably followed by ading water back in and hand mixing for a good
                > consistency.
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