42982Re: [hobbicast] Ideas Needed
- Feb 17, 2014Matt:
You beat me to that one ;-) .............. I've worked on machinery and vehicles for over 40 years, and I've seen a lot of vehicles freeze through the stupidity of putting water in them. You don't do that at any time of year in Montana......... It gets forgotten and you've lost a lot of money compared to a bit of antifreeze.
I have yet to see an engine with straight water in it freeze, and be saved by the plugs popping out.... It's not what they're for, and they don't work for that. With a weak solution, they will pop out and allow the slush to drain out.......... with straight water the block will break every time.
On 02/17/2014 09:47 AM, Matthew Tinker wrote:
I wouldn't bother with the plugs, they won't stop it happening again. The engine plugs are to fill casting holes, they pop with frost, letting out the water sometimes. The only way to protect from freezing is to drain them (unless you are very wealthy and put antifreeze in!)
CNC conversion 1944 Colchester Lathe build-up log
On Monday, 17 February 2014, 17:25, StoneTool <owly@...> wrote:
The rollers are 54" diameter 1/2" wall thickness......... I doubt
that denting the tires in will be an issue as they are trailerhouse
tires, and designed to be pumped up to 100 psi.
One good suggestion was the weld short spokes to the rim so I can
hand turn easily, and mount the mig gun......... The problem with this
would be that the rollers will probably walk one way or the other, so
the gun position would have to be adjusted frequently. I love the idea
of mounting the gun and turning the pipe though. Of course the
solution to walking would be to discover which direction the pipe want's
to screw itself and make your mount with a follower that would simply
push the gun back as the pipe worked toward it. I'll probably end up
hand turning and hand welding.
I unfortunately will not be able to get a kid to help...... I'm on
my own with this one.
On 02/17/2014 08:58 AM, Rupert wrote:
> Hello Howard,
> You didn't say what the dia. of the rollers is so I assume they are
> similar to the rollers I see around here- about 30" dia. I think you
> will find each roller is heavy enough so that it will indent the tires
> enough to make turning not easy.
> In any case, the suggestion is already made to get help to rotate the
> pipe is a good one.
> I think it will take at least a 3/4HP electric motor to turn the pipe
> if you go that route. A 1/4hp motor won't cut it unless you have a good
> gear reduction. Slipping a belt around the pipe and using a 2" pulley on
> the motor will give you a reduction of 15:1. Rig up to hang the motor
> from it's own weight on a long plank under the pipe for tension.
> At least that is what I would try. Also practice a bit on the welder if
> your not familiar with it's operation.
> Waiting to hear what other suggestions appear.
> On 2/17/2014 7:19 AM, StoneTool wrote:
>> I have a large metal fabrication (non casting) project I need some
>> ideas on. A customer of mine had a disaster with his land roller
>> gang. This is a gang of 3 large land rollers used in farming. They
>> are 54" diameter 1/2" wall steel pipe with axles and frames, filled with
>> water and pulled with a large Steiger tractor. One is 14' long, and
>> the other two are 10' long. These are massive!.
>> An employee was instructed to drain them last fall, and reported
>> that he had.......... when in fact he had not. All 3 froze and blew
>> the ends out, which were half inch steel plate. The units were poorly
>> made, having a 3" shaft for an axle, that was merely welded to the ends,
>> and had gusset plates to make it rigid. Good rollers have an internal
>> plate 18" or so inside the pipe, and an end plate, both with holes to
>> retain the axle so that it is solid.
>> My project will be to cut all 6 end plates out, and weld 12 new
>> plates into the rollers, and build bearing assemblies. They used pillow
>> block bearings instead of aluminum bronze bearings used in the better
>> rollers. Both plates will be welded inside the pipe instead of having
>> the outer one flush with the outer edge which causes breakage problems
>> in the welds.
>> That's 170' of weld just welding the ends into the rollers. I'll have
>> considerably more than that with the spokes and stuff. I'll be
>> getting some .062 dual shield mig wire, and doing it inside the shop to
>> be out of the wind where I can use wire with gas. Good dual shield lays
>> a superb bead and is all position.
>> I'm going to flip a 14' tandem trailer I'm in the process of
>> building (trailer house axles) upside down on the shop floor, and rest
>> the pipes on the wheels of the trailer so I can turn them
>> easily..........It probably won't be all that easy, but it will elevate
>> the pipes and allow me to work in the flat position for most of my
>> welds. What I haven't yet figured out is what I can use to rotate the
>> pipe. I would like to be able to step on a pedal, and have the pipe
>> creep around slowly as it turns on the wheels of the trailer. In a
>> perfect world, I'd have a pickup axle for one axle, and an electric
>> motor turning it through a belt drive......... but I don't have that.
>> I may resort to some sort of pulley scabbed onto one wheel. If I was
>> doing more than 3, I'd set up a submerged arc welder, a 5HP electric
>> motor, and a cheap surplus ZTR pump and motor setup (surplus center),
>> and fine tune the rotational speed so I could mount the mig gun and turn
>> the pipe. A toggle switch would kick the mig on and off as the inner
>> plate will have cut outs in it for the water to circulate through.
>> As it is, I'm going to spend days and days welding using a hand
>> held mig gun, but at least if I can turn the pipe with a foot switch, I
>> will be able to really crank the power up, and run large wire. The
>> welder is a Thermal Arc unit rated 400 amps. I'm going to have to look
>> and see what the duty cycle is, but I suspect that I can easily run .062
>> flux core or solid wire all day long, and I can crank the power and feed
>> up. I'm not sure weather to run the flux core dual shield, which does
>> an absolutely beautiful job and has excellent properties, or to try to
>> achieve a spray transfer with solid wire. Esab offers some excellent
>> dual shield wires that are designed to run on pure CO2........... that's
>> a really cheap way to go for gas. The machine I will be using
>> belongs to the customer, and has never had anything but .035 wire in it,
>> so I have no idea how well it will handle .062........ I'd be reluctant
>> to try .090 or .125 wire with it, though I have run the former on my
>> machine at home (350 amp rated). I run .045 for almost everything on
>> my own main shop welder, and I consider that a bit light for this job.
>> Any ideas? I'm not looking forward to this job. It's
>> just beyond a "normal repair", and just short of "production". For
>> about $80, I can get a ZTR variable displacement pump from Surplus
>> Center, and I own a fairly large hydraulic motor which would probably do
>> the job.......but I don't have a suitable electric motor, and the
>> fabrication time isn't really justified. I do have a couple of worm
>> drive gear reduction boxes available, and an array of pulleys, and that
>> would be pretty simple to knock together, and involve almost no cost and
>> very little time. My trailer axles have to be mounted to channels
>> because the spring pads are wider than the frame under the bed, so I can
>> mount them and lay them sideways on top of my big trailer allowing me to
>> load the pipes on the trailer and drag the trailer into the shop. That
>> means I can have the project at a decent working height. I have a
>> foot pedal on / off switch I can run the motor with........ mounted to
>> my drill press (a wonderful innovation in terms of safety). I remove
>> that and use it, along with the relay box I built to go with it, and use
>> it to run the rotator.
>> Is this being lazy or working smart???
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