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42467Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate

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  • Nelson Collar
    Jan 5, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      I do not see much difference with the two examples. Fig 112 Has two curves. Curves, I've seen them used many times and will continue to use them. 


      ________________________________
      From: David Patterson <odd_kins@...>
      To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Friday, January 4, 2013 11:13 PM
      Subject: Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate


       
      Sage take a look at the link you posted, page 106 figure 112. Round or rectangular the gating will be similar. I prefer to make wood gating systems that can be used for multiple patterns of similar size and shape.
       
       
      Dave Patterson
      odd_kins@...
      http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundry_home.html

      --- On Fri, 1/4/13, Sage McGirk freeflysage@...> wrote:

      From: Sage McGirk freeflysage@...>
      Subject: Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate
      To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Friday, January 4, 2013, 9:41 AM

      i'm not an amateur or an expert.. I've done about 50 lost foam castings,
      and finally seeing the light with wood objects.  I'm really just having
      issues with thin objects, and haven't done a round/circular object before.
      I've seen some large foam circular objects and they angle 4 sprues into a
      single point from my research.  I have no problem with trial and error but
      dont like wasting my time if I can lean on the community for advice....

      FWIW

      /sm

      On Fri, Jan 4, 2013 at 12:32 PM, Nelson Collar nel2lar@...> wrote:

      > **
      >
      >
      > Well
      > I guess I missed something. If you read it all, When we start trying
      > to do things in the home shop perfection is not necessary. The sprue
      > does not require all the technical data. I use the same sprue for all
      > of my pours. Sometimes I use a riser, and I put the riser before the
      > cavity that way is ant bad metal will rise up the riser instead of
      > the pattern, and also helps preventing the part to be full with no
      > voids or over shrinkage. Cast can be a very rewarding skill, but if
      > we get all bogged up in things that have no call for at all. Like I
      > said about my South Bend, it has some areas that needed cosmetic
      > work. If the casting is made rigid it will withstand a lick-en and
      > still hold up. For the first timer, read and read some more, but do
      > not approach like it has to be perfect. The best way to get good at
      > anything we must start some where. If the simple guidelines are
      > followed it should yield good and workable parts. The more we
      > practice the more experience we will gain and hopefully the better we
      > will get as we hon our skills. I know how to cast and the advice to others
      > is to jump in and do something. Read and follow what others have done.
      > Good-Day
      >
      > Nelson Collar
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: David Patterson odd_kins@...>
      > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2013 7:06 PM
      >
      > Subject: Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > I did keep it simple. Someone asked a question and the last thing I would
      > tell anyone is to start casting so you can make chips. Making a working
      > casting and making a good casting are two different things. I would like to
      > see people making good, solid and clean looking castings. Following a few
      > simple rules for gating will make your chances better. If you want a
      > working casting, by all means, guess at the gating, guess if it needs
      > risers or not. And when your done if it's not perfect, Bondo the voids
      > and paint the casting to hide the defects. I would just as soon not but
      > that is just me. And yes I do analyze my pours, if I don't get a good
      > casting I will cut it up to find out what went wrong. Then try to correct
      > the problem.
      >
      > Dave Patterson
      > odd_kins@...
      > http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundry_home.html
      >
      > --- On Thu, 1/3/13, Nelson Collar nel2lar@...> wrote:
      >
      > From: Nelson Collar nel2lar@...>
      > Subject: Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate
      > To: "hobbicast@yahoogroups.comhobbicast@yahoogroups.com>
      > Date: Thursday, January 3, 2013, 11:21 AM
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Why are you being so technical about it. You are doing something that only
      > care needs be heeded. As far as pour rates and all that info has no bearing
      > to us, just that the cavity fills and is useable. Its bad enough if you try
      > to make something bigger than directed, because there are things you
      > overlook until you are done and you need to make changes. I know I made the
      > shaper larger to 8 inches and overlooked a few things. Be realistic and
      > start doing something to make chips. And yes all that high tech stuff is
      > not needed. Next thing you will start to analyze
      > your metal pours. Which is impossible because we can not get the
      > equipment to change anything before pouring. If you never heard the
      > K.I.S.S. explained well, Keep It Simple S****d. Make some castings so
      > you can make some chips.
      >
      > Nelson Collar
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: David Patterson odd_kins@...>
      > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2013 3:49 PM
      > Subject: Re: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate
      >
      >
      > You need to calulate the amount of time you need to fill the mold cavity.
      > Then starting from the ingates calulate the size needed to fill the cavity
      > in that time. Shape and number of the ingates will be dictated by the shape
      > of the casting. The cross sectional area of the runner/runners will be
      > equal to the sectional area of the ingate/ingates. The sectional area of
      > the sprue(smallest diameter) will be 1/4 the area of the runner. But this
      > is just a starting point, you adjust from here until you get a good
      > casting. Don't forget to cut a pouring basin into the cope, about 3 times
      > the diameter of the sprue. This is a 1-4-4 ratio used in non ferrous
      > foundrys, 1 is the sectional area of the sprue, 4 sectional area of all
      > runners and 4 sectional area of all ingates. Beyoud this trial and error
      > until you find what works.
      >
      > The idea is to keep the sprue full during the pour, keeping turbulance to
      > a minimum.
      > Thin casting that don't require risers, vent, a lot if unsure. Risers will
      > act as vents in larger casting.
      >
      > The only reason to have a second sprue(outgate) would be if you have 2
      > people pouring at the same time.
      >
      > Dave Patterson
      > odd_kins@...
      > http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundry_home.html
      >
      > --- On Wed, 1/2/13, Sage McGirk freeflysage@...> wrote:
      >
      > From: Sage McGirk freeflysage@...>
      > Subject: [hobbicast] ingate / outgate
      > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Wednesday, January 2, 2013, 11:09 AM
      >
      >
      >
      > Happy new year everyone! I've been hobbicasting for about 6/7 months
      > now, and I'm looking for any sort of rule of thumb for the size of the
      > ingate/outgate holes. I'm starting to cast some bigger objects (>
      > 3-4") that tend to be fairly thin. I've learned to POUR faster to
      > ensure nothing cools prematurely but find some objects still dont
      > quite finish. I'm guessing larger ingates are the trick. I'm also
      > about to embark on some gear shaped objects, and wondering how ,if
      > needed, to do multiple sprue holes as I've seen with lost foam, but
      > will be using wood as objects now. Any advice, video's, pictures
      > would be appreciated
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      > /sm
      >
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      >
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      >
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      >

      >

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