34276RE: [Heathkit:Yahoo] Re: Soldering, aka Soldering Guns (and a good buy on one)
- Jul 5, 2014
That's how I have always done it too. I have the same D550 Weller. However, I now use the new, crimp-style connectors. They make a very professional looking connector, and much easier to install. Of course you still need to solder the center connector, but that's very easy.
The downside for the crimp connectors is that they are a little more expensive, and the crimp tool is fairly expensive, but that's a onetime expense, and it's worth it for me. I bought mine at QuickSilver Radio.
Dick - W6CCD
I have two Weller guns, which I've had for years. The 8200 is a 100W/140W model that I use for heavy soldering on boatanchor gear, such as ground lugs. My D550 is a monster 240W/325W model that I use only for two things: soldering heavy lugs to a steel chassis and coax connectors. The problem with PL-259 type connectors, especially with foam coax, is that a lighter-wattage iron or gun requires so much dwell time to get the surface to a temp to flow solder that it heats up the entire area to way beyond the melting point of the coax dielectric, As a result, you end up with a mess of melted plastic. Even if you are fortunate and don't create a short, you may as well just cut the connector off and throw it away if it ever has to be removed.
With the D550, I prep the connector by swabbing a little dab of Weller paste rosin flux (Get some!) around the holes with a q-tip. Then I squeeze the trigger on the gun until the tip gets hot. I put the tip on the connector and as soon as the flux starts smoking, I add some solder in the space between the gun tip and the connector. I only leave the gun on the surface long enough to flow the solder down into the hole and across the top. I use Kester .050 60/40 solder for this purpose. 60/40 has better 'wetting action' than 63/37.
My two cents' worth ...Mike Harmon, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net
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