Re: Sil-nylon sewing results
Question 2. Needle sizes 10, 11, 14, etc., refer to the thickness of the needle. Smaller needles are intended for finer fabrics, have smaller eyes, and make smaller holes. You would need a finer needle for silk than denim, for example.
I believe the 60/100 size refers to needle length. If you had bad luck with the size 60, it was likely meant for another sewing machine, or maybe a serger.
What was the project you were describing, perhaps a larger tarp to increase the living area around and under your hammock? Are you using a separate rope for the fly? If so, it will work for shelter, but you may find it cooler and draftier. Great when it is hot, maybe not so great in cooler weather.
It is way cool to sit in your hammock as a sling chair, sheltered by the fly/tarp, and being able to boil water on a lightweight alcohol stove. I'm testing a light weight animal resistant can for someone. The can makes a great little table! The stove is far enough from all the silnylon that I am confident about safety, while I can reach the stove while sitting. Ahhh!
From: "Ray Garlington" <rgarling@...>
Subject: Sil-nylon sewing results
Experience sewing sil-nylon ripstop
I now have a little more sewing experience under my belt having
completed a 6x9' tarp (for the GI shell) and a 8x10' for a replacement
tarp for the Hennessey Hammock. I had some success doing the
1. if your machine has a table that surrounds the sewing arm, use
it! The extra surface area around the needle helps you to stablize
the seam as it enters, and with sil-nylon you need all the stability
you can muster. It is very slippery.
2. I used a needle sized 100 and had better luck than with a size 60.
(Question to sewers: are there different needle naming conventions?
In walmart there were needles sized 10, 11, 14 or some-such, which
seemed about the size I was using)
3. When joining 2 pieces of material pin the 2 pieces together before
sewing. Nylon is too slippery to sew a seam "on the fly".
4. I used 100%polyester thread by Gutterman which was recommend. It
worked ok. (But so did a cotton -coated poly thread I had been using.
-- I suppose the recommended thread will wear better)
5. I used the longest stitch length my machine could make; however,
my actual stitch length was somewhat irregular due to slippage. Best
results were obtained by pulling the material (very slightly) through
6. I used triangle-shaped support pieces at the corners and at other
attachment points where I sewed in a loop. (where a rope will connect
when pitching the tarp.) I used one of Oware's tarps (I have one of
his 10x10' silnylon tarps) as a model (www.owareusa.com).
The 6x9' tarp for the GI shell is a little too long for the Hennessey
Hammock Expedition 2.5 model. 6x8'4" would be better. To compensate,
I ended up slinging the shell more toward the head end to leave
adequate space at the foot end for entry &exit. The finished weight
of this tarp was 9 oz, which when combined with a large plastic bag,
rubber band and a "space blanket" totals 12oz for the Garlington
Insulator. This tarp did NOT include the length-wise draw
strings which I have come to believe are not necessary. Also, I used
flyfisher's idea about a drawstring at the footend. That works well.
The 8x10' tarp to replace the HH fly weighed 13oz. The original fly
weighed 9oz, so it 'costs' 4oz for the increased coverage. Seems like
a bargain. (Warning: 13oz is the fly weight only. All your rigging
(lines, stakes, etc) will add to the weight.
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, rosaleen43@a... wrote:
> What was the project you were describing, perhaps a larger tarp toincrease
> the living area around and under your hammock? Are you using aseparate rope
> for the fly? If so, it will work for shelter, but you may find itcooler and
> draftier. Great when it is hot, maybe not so great in coolerweather.
Yes, I made a replacement tarp 8x10' that I will string on a separate
ridgeline above the hammock. The 6'x9' tarp is a bottom sling to hold
insulation under the hammock. Details
- Hi Ray,
You may wish to consider (for your new tarp) Attach the ridge line
tie-outs directly to the tarp instead of pulling the fly over a
separate ridge line. In the wind, this system seems to work out a
little better when getting the thing up.
You may also want to attach a clothes line under the tarp, that is
not quite as taut as the seam on tarp itself (so it hangs an inch or
two under the tarp when clothes are hung from it). This works out a
bit better for drying stuff than up against the moist underside of
the tarp. You also may consider stringing two lines, twisted around
each other ten or twelve times, the twists can be used as virtual
clothes pins. The twists also keep the drying items from sliding
into each other in the center of the span as one wet sopping mess
right above your belly button.
--- In email@example.com, "Ray Garlington"
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, rosaleen43@a... wrote:to
> > What was the project you were describing, perhaps a larger tarp
> > the living area around and under your hammock? Are you using a
> separate rope
> > for the fly? If so, it will work for shelter, but you may find
> cooler andseparate
> > draftier. Great when it is hot, maybe not so great in cooler
> Yes, I made a replacement tarp 8x10' that I will string on a
> ridgeline above the hammock. The 6'x9' tarp is a bottom sling tohold
> insulation under the hammock. Details
> at: http://www.mindspring.com/~rgarling/Insulator.htm