Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek
- --- In email@example.com, "Mirage" <mirage@p...> wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "rambler4466"
> > You mention a loud "flapping noise". Did you run the tyvekthrough
> > a washing mashine? It becomes soft if you do and should not befrom Tyvek), and while
> > noisy.
> Nope, but I have run my ground cloths and stuff sacks (also made
> it did soften them up, it also makes them "fuzzy", resulting inthem picking up lots of dirt
> and debries.once I made my SilNylon
> At any rate, I never planned on it being a long term solution, and
> tarps, there is just no going back for me. I used the Tyvek asproto typing material and
> sold the rest to fellow hikers looking for some.flapping noise.
> Maybe I will wash it anyway just to test the theory of reduced
>Shane: You are right about the small "feelers" that pick up dirt,
> Shane "Mirage"...
especially leaves. That is why I gave up using tyvek as a ground
cover. (the people at Tarptent.com agreed there was no solution) Now
I just use a piece of nylon that is only slightly larger than my
pad. Using a hommade Speer Hammock, I find I have either the option
of hammock hanging or just using the tarp for protection while
sleeping on the ground.
This incleudes making the hammock fly/tarp so that it can be used
with the middle seam going either way, ie. as a ridgeline when used
as a tent. Basically you have to had a few more loops for tie-outs.
- Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
--- In email@example.com, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
> or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
> did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
> quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
> sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
> trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
> dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
> the dots.
> It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
> out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
> Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
> bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
> little catenary curves between your support points that cause
> headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
> Now to sew along the line...
> Bill in Houston