Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek
- For 12 foot template
0' (center): -7.22"
+/- 0.5': ...-7.14"
+/- 1.0': ...-7.02"
+/- 1.5': ...-6.77"
+/- 2.0': ...-6.42"
+/- 2.5': ...-5.97"
+/- 3.0': ...-5.42"
+/- 3.5': ...-4.77"
+/- 4.0': ...-4.02"
+/- 4.5': ...-3.17"
+/- 5.0': ...-2.21"
+/- 5.5': ...-1.18"
+/- 6.0': ... 0.00"
For 6 foot template
0' (center): -1.80"
+/- 0.5': ...-1.75"
+/- 1.0': ...-1.60"
+/- 1.5': ...-1.35"
+/- 2.0': ...-1.00"
+/- 2.5': ...-0.55"
+/- 3.0': ... 0.00"
Thanks for those!
>I can tell you that 96"Okay.
>is not enough width.
> I recently saw where another person used plastic drop cloth tomodel
> a tent design... I thought that was very clever. Why don't youget a
> 9'x12' piece of 2 or 3 mil plastic drop cloth, use reinforcedand
> strapping tape and make a model to see what dimensions you want
> where you want to put your tieouts and panel pullouts? That mightof
> also give you a feel for what catenary curves might do to help the
> tautness. On my 96" wide tarp I used 3 tieouts on the long side
> the tarp, I think I need them. On the 126" wide tarp I used fourtarp
> tieouts on the side and panel pullouts at the same spacing, the
> tent configuration dictated the placement of those.Yes, this is a good idea. Thanks for all the good info.
I am thinking about putting a few (maybe two) small pockets on
inside of the tarp. Either on the panel close to my head or in the
ridge seam. I have seen this in tarptents but not many Hammock
tarps. Has anyone tried this? If so, how did it turn out? If not, I
will let ya'll know.
- Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
> or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
> did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
> quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
> sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
> trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
> dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
> the dots.
> It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
> out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
> Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
> bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
> little catenary curves between your support points that cause
> headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
> Now to sew along the line...
> Bill in Houston