Re: [Hammock Camping] Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek
- Wow, you have one hell of a system. Now that you've done all the work
I doubt you will ever need another system. That's way to much work
for somebody as lazy as I am.
On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 22:19:44 -0000, Dave Womble <dpwomble@...> wrote:
> --- In email@example.com, Adrnlnjnky <Adrnlnjnky@g...>
> > perhaps I'm missreading here but seems like it would be a lot
> > to hang the tarp on a wall and use a string to create the shape of
> > your cut. just drop the middle the desired distance and with the
> > ends taped to the corners of your tarp. then use a magic marker to
> > trace the line.
> Sounds easy. When I decided to do this I looked around for a place
> to try it, gave a little more thought to the details and decided to
> go another route. I think you may find it's not as easy as you think
> to secure and level large pieces of silnylon against a wall while you
> secure a cord with nails or tacks. Gravity is going to fight you
> every step of the way except for the catenary shape the cord makes.
> The templates took me a couple of hours to make and I have used them
> on 3 tarps so far, so I've gotten my moneys worth out of them. I
> don't have to mark the catenary curve on the fabric, I just lay out
> the fabric on my cutting board, position the template using the built
> in ruler/grids on the cutting boards, tape the template down and cut
> along the edge of the template with a sharpened soldering iron.
> This technique also allows the troublesome ridgeline to be cut and
> melted together on the two panels, holding them together making
> sewing the first seam much easier. On the smaller tarp, there are 9
> catenary cuts. On the larger tarp there are 11 catenary cuts.
> Templates were the way to go for me. But if you find a better way
> and let me know about it, I'll use it if and when I make some more.
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In the winter we play on the frozen snow and
in the spring we play on the unfrozen snow!!
- Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
> or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
> did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
> quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
> sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
> trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
> dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
> the dots.
> It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
> out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
> Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
> bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
> little catenary curves between your support points that cause
> headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
> Now to sew along the line...
> Bill in Houston