Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek
- --- In email@example.com, "Dave Womble" <dpwomble@y...>
I used the same
characteristic curve for the ridgeline and the sides, with the
being defined as having a 5" drop over 10'... this gives it a 6"
over 11' and a 1.8" drop over 6'. I used a cardboard sewing board
that had 1" grids to make my templetes and cut the material with a
soldering iron using those templetes.
A few quick questions
1) Do you use grossgrain or webbing on your tarps around the
perimiter seams? I can't tell from the pictures.
2) How do you determine the "amount of sag" over a given distance
for best results. I always thought it was about 1 inch of sag for
every 1 foot linear, but it looks like you use lesss than that. It
looks to me like Brin uses a lot more sag in his tarps.
I really like your idea of the tarp tent and that is what I am going
to build although I would like to make it 120 X 96, any thoughts on
that (is that too small, or what would you do different)? I also
want to use a straight ridgeline, not cat cut. I think this would
allow me use it better as a tarp only shelter (no hammock). I also
see you have a third tie out in the long side of the tarp, would
this be needed if the cat cut (sag) was deeper?
I have the material on order and will begin work on it in about 2
weeks, this will be my first homemade gear project.
- Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
> or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
> did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
> quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
> sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
> trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
> dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
> the dots.
> It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
> out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
> Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
> bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
> little catenary curves between your support points that cause
> headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
> Now to sew along the line...
> Bill in Houston