Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek
- --- In email@example.com, "zippydooda"
> Okay, that fits with what I was thinking. It seems like a
> (deliberate) catenary ridge line is not needed to keep flapping
> at the ridge of the tarp. On the other hand, it would be verywrote:
> helpful on the edges, so I'll just go with that.
> Thanks everyone for the input.
> Bill in Houston
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Mirage" <mirage@p...>
> > --- In email@example.com, "zippydooda"
> <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Did you ever get around to making one with a catenary
> > >The
> > > Bill in Houston
> > Nope, I made them with straight ridgelines and cat cut sides.
> result though, under ashed
> > taught pitch, is a curved ridgeline, lending to its ability to
> rain and wind, keeping itat
> > quite and you dry.
> > It might be interesting to try a cat cut ridge line, from a
> curiosity/science perspective, but
> > my observations in the field show it is not needed. If you look
> some of my pics orYou mention a loud "flapping noise". Did you run the tyvek through
> > Brians (of MacCat fame) pics, you'll see the slight ridge curve,
> despite being cut and sew
> > straight.
> > My $0.02
> > Shane "Mirage"...
a washing mashine? It becomes soft if you do and should not be
- Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
> Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
> or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
> did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
> quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
> sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
> trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
> dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
> the dots.
> It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
> out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
> Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
> bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
> little catenary curves between your support points that cause
> headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
> Now to sew along the line...
> Bill in Houston