Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: To Cat or not to Cat, was re:Tyvek

Expand Messages
  • jack_tier
    Cat or not is an interesting debate. Here is another article on the subject. http://216.83.168.206/index_files/Articles_files/Tarps.htm Depending on your style
    Message 1 of 32 , Jan 4, 2005
    • 0 Attachment
      Cat or not is an interesting debate. Here is another article on the
      subject. http://216.83.168.206/index_files/Articles_files/Tarps.htm

      Depending on your style flexibility in a tarp may or may not be
      important...You can make a flat tarp taut...key is to get the
      ridgeline seam to be the panel conector and have some angle less
      than 90 degrees to the tieout or tieouts....AND... tie it to
      someting immovable (trees) and not the hammock ropes then try to
      compensate for the dynamic sag.

      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Womble" <dpwomble@y...>
      wrote:
      >
      > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "zippydooda"
      <zippydooda@y...>
      > wrote:
      > > Anyone who has an opinion, please weigh in. Is a catenary
      > ridgeline
      > > better on a hammocking tarp? How much drop would you want?
      > >
      > > Bill in Houston
      >
      > Bill,
      >
      > What you are trying to do is to keep the tarp material taut and
      this
      > is not always easy or even possible with some tarp designs by just
      > pulling hard enough on the tieouts to stretch the material so that
      it
      > is taut. This has to do with the stretch characteristics of the
      > fabric... it stretches differently along each orthogonal weave of
      the
      > fabric and it stretches very much differently along the bias. So,
      on
      > tarp designs were you can pull hard enough to take out any
      looseness
      > you can get a taut tarp. With a catenary ridgeline you don't have
      to
      > pull as hard to achieve tautness because you have essentially
      removed
      > the loose fabric in the manufacturing. (Think of it as just
      > gathering up the loose material at the center of the tarp.) So it
      > that sense a catenary ridgeline works different, maybe better,
      maybe
      > not.
      >
      > My experience with large 8'x10' tarps (or bigger) in an A-frame
      pitch
      > is that the catenary ridgeline works better. This advantage will
      > diminish with smaller tarps or maybe even with tarps that are not
      > rectangular. A catenary ridgeline is not without tradeoffs. It
      is
      > more difficult to cut, much more difficult to sew and is not
      > necessarily as flexible as a flat tarp (which hasn't been as issue
      > for me). I've made two different size catenary tarps, the largest
      > one I use for winter hammock camping. I posted a few photos of
      them
      > under this folder, http://tinyurl.com/6s3qz . I used the same
      > characteristic curve for the ridgeline and the sides, with the
      curve
      > being defined as having a 5" drop over 10'... this gives it a 6"
      drop
      > over 11' and a 1.8" drop over 6'. I used a cardboard sewing board
      (?)
      > that had 1" grids to make my templetes and cut the material with a
      > soldering iron using those templetes.
      >
      > Youngblood
    • Admin
      Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a
      Message 32 of 32 , Jan 20, 2005
      • 0 Attachment
        Well, I actually find the hanging method to be quite easy. I use rolled kraft paper for my
        patterns and a lightweight metal decorative chain purchased at a home improvement
        warehouse. Instead of relying on a wall that's as long as I need for the curve, I have a 1" x
        12" x 10' board that I use to put everything on (I store it against the wall behind the couch
        in the living room so it's out of the way and out of sight when not in use). I cut the paper
        into strips 10 inches wide (the paper comes in 30" width), and use 2 spring-loaded clamps
        ($3 each) to hold the paper to the board. Then I measure the center point, how far down I
        want the curve to go, and mark where I want the chain to hang. Open one clamp slightly
        and slide one end of the chain under it. Pull the chain until it is as taut as it needs to be
        for the curve, stick it under the other clamp, and trace the line. Setup time is about 5
        minutes and drawing the curve takes another minute. It's also very easy to adjust the
        chain.

        Not knocking the templates. I just wanted to share that it can be done easily with the
        right supplies.

        -howie

        --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "zippydooda" <zippydooda@y...> wrote:
        >
        > Having finally done this last night, I gotta say that the templates,
        > or at least the X-Y coordinates, are the way to go. Being one who
        > did not like the template idea, I hung the fabric on the wall, spent
        > quite a while trying to get it level and straight and keep it from
        > sagging too much between the support points, and all that, and then
        > trying to dangle a rope, figuring out it was too heavy, and then
        > dangling a thread so I could mark out some points and play connect
        > the dots.
        >
        > It would have been MUCH easier to use the spreadsheet and then mark
        > out several dots, and then connect them with the ruler.
        >
        > Gravity is NOT your friend - once you get the material off the floor,
        > bad stuff starts to happen. In a fitting bit of irony, you get
        > little catenary curves between your support points that cause
        > headaches when you are trying to make your nice big cat curve.
        >
        > Now to sew along the line...
        >
        > Bill in Houston
        >
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.