## Re: 4.3oz Hammock

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• ... be ... and ... and I ... instead ... nylon ... I stand most humbly corrected. Shane Mirage ...
Message 1 of 12 , Jun 28, 2004
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--- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Womble" <dpwomble@y...>
wrote:
> Shane,
>
> All of the 1.1 oz and 1.9 oz rip-stop nylon that I have weighs 1.1
> oz/sq yd and 1.9 oz/sq yd, respectively, and a 4'x8' piece would
be
> 32 sq ft or 3.56 sq yd (32/9 = 3.56). When I buy rip-stop nylon
and
> don't know the fabic weight per square yard, I measure the length,
> width, weight and then compute the oz/sq yd. In your case, if a
> 4'x8' piece weighs 4.05 oz, then that computes to 1.14 oz/sq yd
and I
> would reason that you are using 1.1 oz/sq yd rip-stop nylon
> of 1.9 oz/sq yd rip-stop nylon. It is my understanding that the
> Hennessy Hammock racer series of hammocks use 1.1 oz rip-stop
nylon
> for the hammock bed.
>
> Youngblood
>

> > Pretty sure I did that right, but I am open to correction.
> >
> > Shane "Mirage"...

I stand most humbly corrected.

Shane "Mirage"...
• Traditionally, fabric weights are given in terms of a sailmaker s yard which is 36 inches long but only 30 inches wide (1080 sq. in.) and before the
Message 2 of 12 , Jun 28, 2004
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Traditionally, fabric "weights" are given in terms of a "sailmaker's
yard" which is 36 inches long but only 30 inches wide (1080 sq. in.)
and before the addition of any kind of fabric coating (most of the Jo-
Ann's ripstops have some light coating). In practice, a square yard
of nominally 1.1 oz. ripstop with urethane DWR can weigh upwards of 2
oz.

If you REALLY want to confuse matters, try expressing your fabric
weight in terms of grams/sq. cm.

s.

--- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Mirage" <mirage@p...> wrote:
>
> I suppose you may be correct. To be honest, the fabric did not
have
> a listed weight so I was "guestimating" it to be 1.9oz. Joann's
> does not typically carry the lighter weight tech fabric like the
> 1.1ox ripstop.
>
> Yet still, remember that a sq yd of fabric is not really "square",
> but 1 yard of fabric at bolt width, or 60" in this case. so 1 sq
yd
> of this fabric was 2160 sq in (60"x36"). My piece was 4608 sq in
> (96"x48"), or 2.13 sq yd (4608/2160 = 2.13). At 1.9oz/sq yd, my
> piece would weight in at 4.05oz.
>
> Using 1.1oz should yield a body weight of 2.34oz, plus whipping.
>
> Pretty sure I did that right, but I am open to correction.
>
> Shane "Mirage"...
• Shane, Could you recap the whipped end hammock briefly? Is this hennessy style or something different? I had a bout of bouncing emails and I m lost on this
Message 3 of 12 , Jun 29, 2004
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Shane,
Could you recap the whipped end hammock briefly? Is this hennessy style or something different? I had a bout of bouncing emails and I'm lost on this subject
Thanks
Gregg

"Mirage" <mirage@...> wrote:
I got a few hours to play around with the whipped end hammock idea a
few folks have been playing with and ended up with a 4.3oz (not
counting the hang ropes/straps) hammock.

It is made from a 4'x8' piece of 1.9oz nylon ripstop (Joann's Fabric
cheapo speacial) and 1/8" braided nylon rope for the whipping.

I hemmed the ends and sides with a rolled hemp, whipped the ends
with about 1.5" of whipping.  The hang straps are then attached with
a larks head to the hammock on the "inside" end of the whipping (not
on then whipping).

I also made a bugnet from 8' of netting (54" width I believe) with a
grosgrain ridge line and loops at the ends.  The short ends have
hook and loop to close them over the hammock straps.  This weights
in at 4.8oz (sans tie lines)

I slept in it last night and slept well.  Lows over night were about
55*F, no wind.  I slept with my homemade under/over (peapod style)
quilt, mostly open, fleece pants (over kill, I was WARM), calpaline
long sleeve and a fleece vest.  Bug neeting does hold warmth.

My sleep/shelter system breaks down to this now:

Tarp: 12.6oz
Bugnet: 4.8oz
Hammock: 4.3oz
UnderQuilt: 44oz (Primaloft) 33oz (Down)
4 Stakes: 2.8oz

Total: 68.5oz (4.28lbs) or 57.5oz (3.59lbs) for the down bag.

Again, this does not count tielines and hang straps/ropes.  I still
gotta weight those.

Shane "Mirage"...

• ... Gregg, I ll get some pics up later in the week, but here is an attempt to explain it. This is based off the basic Speer design, but narrower and instead
Message 4 of 12 , Jun 30, 2004
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--- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Gregg Spoering <gspoerin@s...> wrote:
> Shane,
> Could you recap the whipped end hammock briefly? Is this hennessy style
> or something different? I had a bout of bouncing emails and I'm lost on
> this subject
> Thanks
> Gregg

Gregg,

I'll get some pics up later in the week, but here is an attempt to explain it. This is
based off the basic Speer design, but narrower and instead of the overhand knot, we
whipp the ends.

1. Cut your fabric to desired lenght (2 feet longer than you).
2. Hem the ends and edges with a rolled hem (or whatever).
3. Gather (as per the speer method) or fold (as per the Hennessy method) the short
end of the hammock fabric. You'll want to end up with no more than 1" width, it will
be easier to work with.
4. Tie, pinch, or bind the end so you can free both hands for the whipping.
5. Being sure to make the whipping VERY tight, tie/wrap a whipping such as
http://www.inquiry.net/images/whip.jpg to the end, just inside the hemmed edge of
the end.
6. Once the whipping is done, be sure to pull the end that was wrapped under, such
that the working end gets folded and pulled into the binding.
7. Attach your hang ropes/straps as desired. I use a larks head.

That's it.

The criticle part is hemming the ends. This is what prevents the whipping from
slidding off. Thanks to Rick and others for discovering this. My prior attempts were
all failing w/in 30 minutes of use because there was not enought material thickness
to bind the whipping and prevent it from slipping off. I had a few bruises ;)

Shane "Mirage"...
• ... I have used a thin (2-3 mm) bungee cord for the whipping. Also put the suspension cord with a stopper knot between the material folds. It seems to hold
Message 5 of 12 , Jul 1, 2004
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>The criticle part is hemming the ends. This is what prevents the whipping from
>slidding off. Thanks to Rick and others for discovering this. My prior attempts were
>all failing w/in 30 minutes of use because there was not enought material thickness
>to bind the whipping and prevent it from slipping off. I had a few bruises ;)
>
>Shane "Mirage"...

I have used a thin (2-3 mm) bungee cord for the whipping.
Also put the suspension cord with a stopper knot between the material
folds.
It seems to hold well.

__o
_`\<,_
(*)/ (*)
• Thanks Shane, I might give this a try to shave a bit of weight off my latest hamock- 1.1 oz (uncoated silnylon) double bottom Speer/ Risk style. With bug net
Message 6 of 12 , Jul 1, 2004
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Thanks Shane,
I might give this a try to shave a bit of weight off my latest hamock-
1.1 oz (uncoated silnylon) double bottom Speer/ Risk style. With bug net
and homemade poncho tarp (larger that the extended Equinox, I'm 6'3")
and including snakeskins, I have it down to 2.12 lbs. If I can lose the
weight of the hammock knots, I'll be happy.(getting compulsive here...).
Will probably change the poly straps to some spectra line and use my
Hennessy tree huggers.
Gregg

Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 15:17:12 -0000
From: "Mirage" <mirage@...>

Gregg,

I'll get some pics up later in the week, but here is an attempt to
explain it. This is
based off the basic Speer design, but narrower and instead of the
overhand knot, we
whipp the ends.

1. Cut your fabric to desired lenght (2 feet longer than you).
2. Hem the ends and edges with a rolled hem (or whatever).
3. Gather (as per the speer method) or fold (as per the Hennessy method)
the short
end of the hammock fabric. You'll want to end up with no more than 1"
width, it will
be easier to work with.
4. Tie, pinch, or bind the end so you can free both hands for the
whipping.
5. Being sure to make the whipping VERY tight, tie/wrap a whipping such
as
http://www.inquiry.net/images/whip.jpg to the end, just inside the
hemmed edge of
the end.
6. Once the whipping is done, be sure to pull the end that was wrapped
under, such
that the working end gets folded and pulled into the binding.
7. Attach your hang ropes/straps as desired. I use a larks head.

That's it.

The criticle part is hemming the ends. This is what prevents the
whipping from
slidding off. Thanks to Rick and others for discovering this. My prior
attempts were
all failing w/in 30 minutes of use because there was not enought
material thickness
to bind the whipping and prevent it from slipping off. I had a few
bruises ;)

Shane "Mirage"...
• ... prior ... If you make the hem-over large enough to slide an old bit of rope through, it will bulk-up the end even further. (Gives ya something to do with
Message 7 of 12 , Jul 2, 2004
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--- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Gregg Spoering <gspoerin@s...>
wrote:
> The criticle part is hemming the ends. This is what prevents the
> whipping from
> slidding off. Thanks to Rick and others for discovering this. My
prior
> attempts were
> all failing w/in 30 minutes of use because there was not enought
> material thickness
> to bind the whipping and prevent it from slipping off. I had a few
> bruises ;)

If you make the hem-over large enough to slide an old bit of rope
through, it will bulk-up the end even further. (Gives ya something
to do with that old rope that didn't work out for hammocking...)

Doug Frost
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