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Re: making 2 tarps

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  • Dave Womble
    Hey Wild Bill, I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges (8x10 and
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 8, 2004
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      Hey Wild Bill,

      I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a
      couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges
      (8x10 and 10x10). I have not used any edging material and would not
      if I were to build one today. I would re-inforce the tie-out areas
      with scrap nylon or silnylon material and seam seal all stitching. I
      prefer a fairly diluted mix of clear 100% silicone adhesive and
      mineral spirits, where I mix them in a small glass jar with a tight
      fitting lid (by shaking) and use a 1" wide foam brush to apply.
      David Oware has some diagrams that might be helpful at
      http://www.owareusa.com/tarps.html that shows the tie-out arrangement
      he prefers. A 10x10 tarp is a big tarp and it can be difficult
      working with large pieces of slippery fabric. It can also be
      difficult to deploy a large tarp such that it doesn't sag
      excessively, collect water and/or flap in the wind. I have learned
      quite a bit about tarps recently... enough to realize that there is a
      lot more that I don't know. I would study the tie-outs on Oware's
      diagrams and decide what you think you need for your applications,
      especially the tie-outs on the side panels. Typically, I think most
      tarps use a flat-felled seam for joining two pieces of material and
      then use a double folded, or rolled, hem along the perimeter. It is
      best to keep the folds on the inside surface of the tarp so they are
      less likely to collect rain water.

      How many different configurations do you normally use with your 10x10
      tarps? (I'm talking A-frame, flat, etc.) If you haven't worked with
      silnylon tarps before, you may not be aware that they are not as
      waterproof as other tarp materials and they do stretch, especially
      when wet. The waterproofness shows up under VERY HARD rains and
      results in what is sometimes described as a 'slight misting'. For
      most of us this hasn't been a problem because (1) these hard rains
      are very infrequent, (2) the rain usually doesn't stay at that
      intensity for very long and (3) most of our water sensitive gear has
      DWR finishes that handle the misting without noticable 'wetting'.
      The stretching is another matter. First, you can minimize it by
      using low stretch guy-lines so they don't add to the problem. (Nylon
      guy-lines typically stretch a lot.) Second, you can use some shock
      cord with the guy-lines to help maintain tension. (Be very careful
      of the sling-shoot effect when using shock cord and stakes, it can be
      very dangerous if you 'launch a stake'. I posted a picture of how I
      utilize the shock cord here: http://tinyurl.com/2wafe ) Third, you
      can incorporate a taut-line hitch in the guy-line so that re-
      tensioning is easier.

      Good luck and please let us know what you end up with.

      Youngblood
    • rambler4466
      ... Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com Check workshop . Anyone remember post #2505 Sling shot tie-outs shock cord
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 11, 2004
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        --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "billmoody1" <billmoody@n...>
        Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com
        Check "workshop". Anyone remember post #2505 "Sling shot tie-outs"
        shock cord alternatives? To help waterproofness of silnylon, Ed
        Speers's book suggests sprays available in camping stores. Oware
        usa also suggests using stronger materials for large groups, esp.
        boy scouts or other youths that might have a different view of the
        meaning "handle with care". When adding tie-outs, Ray Jardin
        emphasizes not sewing through the single layer of nylon, but only
        into the hems or center seam.
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