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Re: [Hammock Camping] making 2 tarps

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  • Bill Fornshell
    Hi, You might get some ideas how the sewing is done by looking here. Look for on the right side of the page for SHELTERS and check out #1, #2, & #8 for
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
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      Hi, You might get some ideas how the sewing is done by
      looking here. Look for on the right side of the page
      for SHELTERS and check out #1, #2, & #8 for
      construction pictures and diagrams.
      http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html

      Bill in Texas


      --- billmoody1 <billmoody@...> wrote:
      > I am probably the oldest lurker on here. Signed up
      > when Ed 1st
      > started this group. I have a Hennesy Asym and have
      > bought Ed's
      > excellent book. I just bought fabric to start a
      > double bottom Risk
      > hammock when I get back from Colorado.---But
      > 1st--Going to take a
      > bunch of boy scouts just below Rocky Mountain
      > National Park in the
      > Arapaho National Forest area. We need a couple of
      > 10x10 tarps and
      > instead of carrying the HEAVY stuff they have: I
      > opened my mouth and
      > said I'd sew a couple. HELP== I bought the silnylon
      > and need to know
      > 1)Do you suggest sewing grosgrain around the
      > perimeter. 2)If I do
      > decided to sew grosgrain do I double the silnylon
      > and sew it, then
      > wrap the grosgain around and then sew it on(which
      > seems like alot of
      > needle holes which would weaken the silnylon 3)Do I
      > need to sew
      > reinforcing patches where all the tie outs will be
      > like the McCat
      > Thanks in advance - and thanks for all the posts in
      > the past on this
      > group - Wild Bill
      >
      >
      >




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    • Admin
      For your purposes, the only use that a grossgrain perimeter would serve is to make the tarps heavier. It has been suggested that an edging like grossgrain may
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
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        For your purposes, the only use that a grossgrain perimeter would
        serve is to make the tarps heavier. It has been suggested that an
        edging like grossgrain may serve to stiffen a tarp's catenary edges,
        but I have done no extensive testing on this hypothesis. If you feel
        uncomfortable rolling the edges of silnylon, however, an edging may
        allow you to "finish" the edges without having to extend beyond your
        comfort level. Observing the pros, Integral Designs rolls the edge
        twice (producing a fully-finished seam edge) and uses gross-grain on
        the edge only for the tie-outs leaving three-inch tails to be sewn to
        the edges to distribute the load. After using Integral Designs
        products in varying climes for the past four years, I feel confident
        that this is more than adequate re-inforcement.

        More important than re-inforcements is the issue of the ridgeline.
        Make sure that the ridgeline, or the primary direction of stress, is
        parallel to the length of the fabric. Youngblood can explain this
        more eloquently than I, but due to the nature of the fabric, silnylon
        stretches the least along its length, and most along its diagonal.
        To maintain a crisp ridgeline (and thus a more taut pitch), keep it
        parallel to the length of the fabric.

        -Jeremy Padgett (Hungry Howie & The New Sushi)
      • Dave Womble
        Hey Wild Bill, I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges (8x10 and
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 8, 2004
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          Hey Wild Bill,

          I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a
          couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges
          (8x10 and 10x10). I have not used any edging material and would not
          if I were to build one today. I would re-inforce the tie-out areas
          with scrap nylon or silnylon material and seam seal all stitching. I
          prefer a fairly diluted mix of clear 100% silicone adhesive and
          mineral spirits, where I mix them in a small glass jar with a tight
          fitting lid (by shaking) and use a 1" wide foam brush to apply.
          David Oware has some diagrams that might be helpful at
          http://www.owareusa.com/tarps.html that shows the tie-out arrangement
          he prefers. A 10x10 tarp is a big tarp and it can be difficult
          working with large pieces of slippery fabric. It can also be
          difficult to deploy a large tarp such that it doesn't sag
          excessively, collect water and/or flap in the wind. I have learned
          quite a bit about tarps recently... enough to realize that there is a
          lot more that I don't know. I would study the tie-outs on Oware's
          diagrams and decide what you think you need for your applications,
          especially the tie-outs on the side panels. Typically, I think most
          tarps use a flat-felled seam for joining two pieces of material and
          then use a double folded, or rolled, hem along the perimeter. It is
          best to keep the folds on the inside surface of the tarp so they are
          less likely to collect rain water.

          How many different configurations do you normally use with your 10x10
          tarps? (I'm talking A-frame, flat, etc.) If you haven't worked with
          silnylon tarps before, you may not be aware that they are not as
          waterproof as other tarp materials and they do stretch, especially
          when wet. The waterproofness shows up under VERY HARD rains and
          results in what is sometimes described as a 'slight misting'. For
          most of us this hasn't been a problem because (1) these hard rains
          are very infrequent, (2) the rain usually doesn't stay at that
          intensity for very long and (3) most of our water sensitive gear has
          DWR finishes that handle the misting without noticable 'wetting'.
          The stretching is another matter. First, you can minimize it by
          using low stretch guy-lines so they don't add to the problem. (Nylon
          guy-lines typically stretch a lot.) Second, you can use some shock
          cord with the guy-lines to help maintain tension. (Be very careful
          of the sling-shoot effect when using shock cord and stakes, it can be
          very dangerous if you 'launch a stake'. I posted a picture of how I
          utilize the shock cord here: http://tinyurl.com/2wafe ) Third, you
          can incorporate a taut-line hitch in the guy-line so that re-
          tensioning is easier.

          Good luck and please let us know what you end up with.

          Youngblood
        • rambler4466
          ... Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com Check workshop . Anyone remember post #2505 Sling shot tie-outs shock cord
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 11, 2004
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            --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "billmoody1" <billmoody@n...>
            Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com
            Check "workshop". Anyone remember post #2505 "Sling shot tie-outs"
            shock cord alternatives? To help waterproofness of silnylon, Ed
            Speers's book suggests sprays available in camping stores. Oware
            usa also suggests using stronger materials for large groups, esp.
            boy scouts or other youths that might have a different view of the
            meaning "handle with care". When adding tie-outs, Ray Jardin
            emphasizes not sewing through the single layer of nylon, but only
            into the hems or center seam.
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