Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

making 2 tarps

Expand Messages
  • billmoody1
    I am probably the oldest lurker on here. Signed up when Ed 1st started this group. I have a Hennesy Asym and have bought Ed s excellent book. I just bought
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
    • 0 Attachment
      I am probably the oldest lurker on here. Signed up when Ed 1st
      started this group. I have a Hennesy Asym and have bought Ed's
      excellent book. I just bought fabric to start a double bottom Risk
      hammock when I get back from Colorado.---But 1st--Going to take a
      bunch of boy scouts just below Rocky Mountain National Park in the
      Arapaho National Forest area. We need a couple of 10x10 tarps and
      instead of carrying the HEAVY stuff they have: I opened my mouth and
      said I'd sew a couple. HELP== I bought the silnylon and need to know
      1)Do you suggest sewing grosgrain around the perimeter. 2)If I do
      decided to sew grosgrain do I double the silnylon and sew it, then
      wrap the grosgain around and then sew it on(which seems like alot of
      needle holes which would weaken the silnylon 3)Do I need to sew
      reinforcing patches where all the tie outs will be like the McCat
      Thanks in advance - and thanks for all the posts in the past on this
      group - Wild Bill
    • Rick
      billmoody1 wrote: Hi Bill, this would be my personal advice, because it is what has worked for me... ... I do not and see no reason to do so. For the
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
      • 0 Attachment
        billmoody1 wrote:

        Hi Bill, this would be my personal advice, because it is what has worked
        for me...

        > We need a couple of 10x10 tarps and
        >instead of carrying the HEAVY stuff they have: I opened my mouth and
        >said I'd sew a couple. HELP== I bought the silnylon and need to know
        >1)Do you suggest sewing grosgrain around the perimeter.
        >
        I do not and see no reason to do so. For the perimeter, I roll/fold the
        edge so the raw edge is not seen, and then lay down a single row of
        stitching.

        >2)If I do
        >decided to sew grosgrain do I double the silnylon and sew it, then
        >wrap the grosgain around and then sew it on(which seems like alot of
        >needle holes which would weaken the silnylon
        >
        NA

        >3)Do I need to sew
        >reinforcing patches where all the tie outs will be like the McCat
        >
        >

        Yep. At least at the four corners and the two ends of the ridge.
        However, I personally do not sew reinforcing patches for the two tie
        outs along each of the two edges which are parallel to the ridge. I just
        sew the tie outs to the triple thickness hem.

        >Thanks in advance - and thanks for all the posts in the past on this
        >group - Wild Bill
        >
        >
        >
        Risk
      • Bill Fornshell
        Hi, You might get some ideas how the sewing is done by looking here. Look for on the right side of the page for SHELTERS and check out #1, #2, & #8 for
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
        • 0 Attachment
          Hi, You might get some ideas how the sewing is done by
          looking here. Look for on the right side of the page
          for SHELTERS and check out #1, #2, & #8 for
          construction pictures and diagrams.
          http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html

          Bill in Texas


          --- billmoody1 <billmoody@...> wrote:
          > I am probably the oldest lurker on here. Signed up
          > when Ed 1st
          > started this group. I have a Hennesy Asym and have
          > bought Ed's
          > excellent book. I just bought fabric to start a
          > double bottom Risk
          > hammock when I get back from Colorado.---But
          > 1st--Going to take a
          > bunch of boy scouts just below Rocky Mountain
          > National Park in the
          > Arapaho National Forest area. We need a couple of
          > 10x10 tarps and
          > instead of carrying the HEAVY stuff they have: I
          > opened my mouth and
          > said I'd sew a couple. HELP== I bought the silnylon
          > and need to know
          > 1)Do you suggest sewing grosgrain around the
          > perimeter. 2)If I do
          > decided to sew grosgrain do I double the silnylon
          > and sew it, then
          > wrap the grosgain around and then sew it on(which
          > seems like alot of
          > needle holes which would weaken the silnylon 3)Do I
          > need to sew
          > reinforcing patches where all the tie outs will be
          > like the McCat
          > Thanks in advance - and thanks for all the posts in
          > the past on this
          > group - Wild Bill
          >
          >
          >




          __________________________________
          Do you Yahoo!?
          Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
          http://messenger.yahoo.com/
        • Admin
          For your purposes, the only use that a grossgrain perimeter would serve is to make the tarps heavier. It has been suggested that an edging like grossgrain may
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 7, 2004
          • 0 Attachment
            For your purposes, the only use that a grossgrain perimeter would
            serve is to make the tarps heavier. It has been suggested that an
            edging like grossgrain may serve to stiffen a tarp's catenary edges,
            but I have done no extensive testing on this hypothesis. If you feel
            uncomfortable rolling the edges of silnylon, however, an edging may
            allow you to "finish" the edges without having to extend beyond your
            comfort level. Observing the pros, Integral Designs rolls the edge
            twice (producing a fully-finished seam edge) and uses gross-grain on
            the edge only for the tie-outs leaving three-inch tails to be sewn to
            the edges to distribute the load. After using Integral Designs
            products in varying climes for the past four years, I feel confident
            that this is more than adequate re-inforcement.

            More important than re-inforcements is the issue of the ridgeline.
            Make sure that the ridgeline, or the primary direction of stress, is
            parallel to the length of the fabric. Youngblood can explain this
            more eloquently than I, but due to the nature of the fabric, silnylon
            stretches the least along its length, and most along its diagonal.
            To maintain a crisp ridgeline (and thus a more taut pitch), keep it
            parallel to the length of the fabric.

            -Jeremy Padgett (Hungry Howie & The New Sushi)
          • Dave Womble
            Hey Wild Bill, I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges (8x10 and
            Message 5 of 6 , Jun 8, 2004
            • 0 Attachment
              Hey Wild Bill,

              I have built a couple of flat tarps (8x10 and 10x10) as well as a
              couple of tarps using catenary curves along the ridgeline and edges
              (8x10 and 10x10). I have not used any edging material and would not
              if I were to build one today. I would re-inforce the tie-out areas
              with scrap nylon or silnylon material and seam seal all stitching. I
              prefer a fairly diluted mix of clear 100% silicone adhesive and
              mineral spirits, where I mix them in a small glass jar with a tight
              fitting lid (by shaking) and use a 1" wide foam brush to apply.
              David Oware has some diagrams that might be helpful at
              http://www.owareusa.com/tarps.html that shows the tie-out arrangement
              he prefers. A 10x10 tarp is a big tarp and it can be difficult
              working with large pieces of slippery fabric. It can also be
              difficult to deploy a large tarp such that it doesn't sag
              excessively, collect water and/or flap in the wind. I have learned
              quite a bit about tarps recently... enough to realize that there is a
              lot more that I don't know. I would study the tie-outs on Oware's
              diagrams and decide what you think you need for your applications,
              especially the tie-outs on the side panels. Typically, I think most
              tarps use a flat-felled seam for joining two pieces of material and
              then use a double folded, or rolled, hem along the perimeter. It is
              best to keep the folds on the inside surface of the tarp so they are
              less likely to collect rain water.

              How many different configurations do you normally use with your 10x10
              tarps? (I'm talking A-frame, flat, etc.) If you haven't worked with
              silnylon tarps before, you may not be aware that they are not as
              waterproof as other tarp materials and they do stretch, especially
              when wet. The waterproofness shows up under VERY HARD rains and
              results in what is sometimes described as a 'slight misting'. For
              most of us this hasn't been a problem because (1) these hard rains
              are very infrequent, (2) the rain usually doesn't stay at that
              intensity for very long and (3) most of our water sensitive gear has
              DWR finishes that handle the misting without noticable 'wetting'.
              The stretching is another matter. First, you can minimize it by
              using low stretch guy-lines so they don't add to the problem. (Nylon
              guy-lines typically stretch a lot.) Second, you can use some shock
              cord with the guy-lines to help maintain tension. (Be very careful
              of the sling-shoot effect when using shock cord and stakes, it can be
              very dangerous if you 'launch a stake'. I posted a picture of how I
              utilize the shock cord here: http://tinyurl.com/2wafe ) Third, you
              can incorporate a taut-line hitch in the guy-line so that re-
              tensioning is easier.

              Good luck and please let us know what you end up with.

              Youngblood
            • rambler4466
              ... Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com Check workshop . Anyone remember post #2505 Sling shot tie-outs shock cord
              Message 6 of 6 , Jun 11, 2004
              • 0 Attachment
                --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "billmoody1" <billmoody@n...>
                Another source for hammock ridge-line seams is http://thru-hiker.com
                Check "workshop". Anyone remember post #2505 "Sling shot tie-outs"
                shock cord alternatives? To help waterproofness of silnylon, Ed
                Speers's book suggests sprays available in camping stores. Oware
                usa also suggests using stronger materials for large groups, esp.
                boy scouts or other youths that might have a different view of the
                meaning "handle with care". When adding tie-outs, Ray Jardin
                emphasizes not sewing through the single layer of nylon, but only
                into the hems or center seam.
              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.