Re: Pad pocket for HH
Try a piece of the grippy rubber shelf liner under your pad. There seems to be a range of tackiness to different brands, so look at more than one, if possible. I find the stuff to be a great help. Beware of sewing anything to the hammock itself. You may void the warrantee. I've read of attaching a line to one's pad and then linking it to the ridgeline loop at the head end. That may help a little, too.
In a message dated 5/9/2004 6:28:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, email@example.com writes:
From: "mountainsport500" <mountainsport500@...>
Subject: Pad pocket for HH
I always seem to end up sleeping underneath my pad in my HH.
Has anyone had success sewing a pocket to the bottom to hold a pad
in place? I'm not sure how to handle the entrance as it seems to be
a raised ridge which tends to interfere with a pad.
All comments welcome.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Ralph Oborn"
> What is "reflectic"? Aluminized Mylar (space blanket) or reflectorsurrounding bubble wrap
> bubble wrap or ???? All the above... close to a space blanket
> And how much where?I forget exactly, seems like my share for a 4 x 25 ft rool was about
$20 Try building supply places or HAVAC suppliere/installers/
> RalphCoy Boy
- Quoting rosaleen43@...:
Beware of sewing anything to the hammock itself. You may void the warrantee.
While Rosaleen is correct, this sort of worry may be overdone sometimes. One of
the really useful pieces of advice in Ray Jardine's Beyond Backpacking for me
was the piece where he talks about warranty worry.
Sewing something to a $150 hammock for the first experiment may not be the best
example, but the point Ray made well, is that the thing is mine. If I feel like
modifying it, I can and should.
With some hammock sewing experience in my background, I would have no worry at
all about sewing a pad holder in a Hennessy Hammock for my own use. I would use
a zigzag stitch and keep the number of puncture holes to a minimum by making the
stitch 3 mm wide and 2 mm long. My experience with many Speer type hammocks is
that this will not weaken the hammock to the point of tearing the material. If
I was really concerned, I would just sew the lengthwise seams and not worry
about the cross seams.
But, before working on that expensive hammock, I'd try getting used to the idea
by removing a label with a seam ripper or by removing some unneeded straps on a
pack or by modifying something that costs $20 instead of $150.
- At Lowes hardware:
Reflectix 4'x 25' Foil Insulation
Item #: 13358
Quoting Coy <starnescr@...>:
> --- In email@example.com, "Ralph Oborn"
> <polecatpop@y...> wrote:
> > What is "reflectic"? Aluminized Mylar (space blanket) or reflector
> > bubble wrap or ???? All the above... close to a space blanket
> surrounding bubble wrap
> > And how much where?
> I forget exactly, seems like my share for a 4 x 25 ft rool was about
> $20 Try building supply places or HAVAC suppliere/installers/
> > Ralph
> Coy Boy
I don't care for pads wider than 22 inches, as they don't
pack the way I prefer. Have you considered cutting a narrow
pad in half -- for example you could end up with two pads
that are 20 x 34 inches. Place these in a T shape, so you
get wide coverage at your shoulders and narrow coverage from
your hips down. If you put some silicone or sticky tape on
the back of the pads you can minimize slippage, but I find
with two separate pads it's not too much of a problem, and
easy to reposition the pads even half asleep.