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Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips

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  • matthulbert
    I just finished my double layer (1.1oz) hammock. It s great! I have a couple comments (and thanks to all who have contributed to this forum!): I bought a
    Message 1 of 12 , Mar 29, 2004
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      I just finished my double layer (1.1oz) hammock. It's great! I have a
      couple comments (and thanks to all who have contributed to this forum!):

      I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can use
      a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
      from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very nice.

      The 1.1 ounce ripstop nylon from Thru-hiker is really nice (as is the
      service).

      Sewing the 1.1 ounce ripstop is really easy. It didn't take me long to
      get the hang of doing the seams on-the-fly.

      I'm going to make a tarp like Risk's (he's my hero) that's 5' x 10'
      out of Silnylon.

      It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to do
      the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam about
      3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
      Jardine's book).

      The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin the
      reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may work.
      I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
      sewing is done.

      Anyone have silnylon tips?

      Thanks!
    • matthulbert
      I also want to add that I m a big fan of the 4 width. The hammock doesn t cocoon you so much at the narrower width. Oh, and I can t seem to type nylon
      Message 2 of 12 , Mar 29, 2004
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        I also want to add that I'm a big fan of the 4' width. The hammock
        doesn't cocoon you so much at the narrower width.

        Oh, and I can't seem to type 'nylon' without putting a g on the end!
        My fingers do what they want!


        --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "matthulbert" <ms@u...> wrote:
        > I just finished my double layer (1.1oz) hammock. It's great! I have a
        > couple comments (and thanks to all who have contributed to this forum!):
        >
        > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can use
        > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
        > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very nice.
        >
        > The 1.1 ounce ripstop nylon from Thru-hiker is really nice (as is the
        > service).
        >
        > Sewing the 1.1 ounce ripstop is really easy. It didn't take me long to
        > get the hang of doing the seams on-the-fly.
        >
        > I'm going to make a tarp like Risk's (he's my hero) that's 5' x 10'
        > out of Silnylon.
        >
        > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to do
        > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam about
        > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
        > Jardine's book).
        >
        > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin the
        > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may work.
        > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
        > sewing is done.
        >
        > Anyone have silnylon tips?
        >
        > Thanks!
      • Rick
        ... (blush) ... Once the seam is started, it is easy to fold under as I go down the seam. It seems hard in the beginning, but once the seam is started, it is
        Message 3 of 12 , Mar 29, 2004
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          matthulbert wrote:

          >Sewing the 1.1 ounce ripstop is really easy. It didn't take me long to
          >get the hang of doing the seams on-the-fly.
          >
          >I'm going to make a tarp like Risk's (he's my hero) that's 5' x 10'
          >out of Silnylon.
          >
          >
          (blush)

          >It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to do
          >the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam about
          >3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
          >Jardine's book).
          >
          >
          Once the seam is started, it is easy to fold under as I go down the
          seam. It seems hard in the beginning, but once the seam is started, it
          is easy enough.

          >The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin the
          >reinforcements to the silnylon.
          >
          It is not too bad to pin in the corners of the tarp. If there is a
          little leak there, it does not matter at all. For this reason, the
          corners and edges are not seam sealed either.

          >It seems that masking tape may work.
          >I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
          >sewing is done.
          >
          >
          Removing tape that has been sewn through is not fun. I use tape
          frequently to show me, for instance, where a baffle goes on a quilt, but
          I always sew next to, not on, the tape.

          >Anyone have silnylon tips?
          >
          Practice for a couple minutes on a piece of scrap of the same material.
          I have a sewing machine that automatically adjusts tension. It is good
          for me to do the practice so the machine already knows how to set the
          tension. Use really good thread and a good needle. Guterman is the
          best thread I know and is worth buying every time I order fabric.

          Risk
        • ciyd01
          A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others. ... use ... nice. I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is that it has to be
          Message 4 of 12 , Mar 30, 2004
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            A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.

            > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
            use
            > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
            > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
            nice.

            I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is
            that it has to be plugged in. I found that using a large piece of
            corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well.
            The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
            smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying. Wood, like
            plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well. The hotknife isn't
            hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
            will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace. I
            set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire.
            I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting.

            > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
            do
            > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
            about
            > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
            > Jardine's book).

            I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon. I use a few,
            very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
            to the waterproofness of the finished item. You can also rub a
            little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
            sealing the finished item, if needed.

            > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
            the
            > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
            work.
            > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
            > sewing is done.

            Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
            regular ripstop. I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
            circles of fabric. My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
            diameter. I then mark the center of the circle of fabric. Now,
            place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
            reinforce. Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
            the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing. This
            has 2 advantages: 1) the reinforcement is exactly the right size
            and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
            edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
            fabric unnecessary. Using a large circle of fabric should get you
            several corner reinforcements.

            My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
            the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
            my pattern. Works great.

            > Anyone have silnylon tips?

            Finger tack. This means holding the fabric together with your
            fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
            and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle. Gently pull
            the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
            pieces of fabric with your hands. This will help get both pieces of
            fabric to feed evenly. Also, set your thread tension on scrap
            fabric. If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
            your tension using two scraps. The fabric tension on fabric this
            thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
            sewn together.

            Hope this is useful.

            ciyd
          • matthulbert
            Thanks ciyd! The butane soldering iron was $20 at Radio Shack. A regular corded soldering iron is only $8! I cut my fabric on an 8 x 11 shelf from Home
            Message 5 of 12 , Mar 30, 2004
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              Thanks ciyd!

              The butane soldering iron was $20 at Radio Shack. A regular corded
              soldering iron is only $8!

              I cut my fabric on an 8' x 11" shelf from Home Depot. It's white
              painted/laminated. It's 3/4" fiberboard and was only $6. It was the
              cheapest piece I could find that was long. The paint melts a little
              bit when I hot-cut the fabric, but it works fine. It's nice having it
              be 8 feet long for things like hammocks. The 11" width might be a
              problem for clothes, but I'll worry about that when I get to it.


              --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "ciyd01" <ciyd@a...> wrote:
              > A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.
              >
              > > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
              > use
              > > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
              > > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
              > nice.
              >
              > I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is
              > that it has to be plugged in. I found that using a large piece of
              > corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well.
              > The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
              > smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying. Wood, like
              > plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well. The hotknife isn't
              > hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
              > will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace. I
              > set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire.
              > I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting.
              >
              > > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
              > do
              > > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
              > about
              > > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
              > > Jardine's book).
              >
              > I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon. I use a few,
              > very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
              > to the waterproofness of the finished item. You can also rub a
              > little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
              > sealing the finished item, if needed.
              >
              > > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
              > the
              > > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
              > work.
              > > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
              > > sewing is done.
              >
              > Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
              > regular ripstop. I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
              > circles of fabric. My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
              > diameter. I then mark the center of the circle of fabric. Now,
              > place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
              > reinforce. Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
              > the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing. This
              > has 2 advantages: 1) the reinforcement is exactly the right size
              > and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
              > edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
              > fabric unnecessary. Using a large circle of fabric should get you
              > several corner reinforcements.
              >
              > My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
              > the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
              > my pattern. Works great.
              >
              > > Anyone have silnylon tips?
              >
              > Finger tack. This means holding the fabric together with your
              > fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
              > and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle. Gently pull
              > the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
              > pieces of fabric with your hands. This will help get both pieces of
              > fabric to feed evenly. Also, set your thread tension on scrap
              > fabric. If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
              > your tension using two scraps. The fabric tension on fabric this
              > thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
              > sewn together.
              >
              > Hope this is useful.
              >
              > ciyd
            • Chet Clocksin
              Ciyd, Great tips on the silnylon, especially on the corner reinforcements! I also use a wood burner, and it wors great. I have used small scraps of laminate
              Message 6 of 12 , Mar 30, 2004
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                Ciyd,
                 
                Great tips on the silnylon, especially on the corner reinforcements! I also use a wood burner, and it wors great. I have used small scraps of laminate flooring (the kind that snaps together to look like a wood floor). Turn the laminate upside down and the surface is perfect for this use. One of these days I may buy a piece of underlayment (masonite) 4' x 8' to work off of.
                 
                Chet
                -----Original Message-----
                From: ciyd01 [mailto:ciyd@...]
                Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 12:37 PM
                To: hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [Hammock Camping] Re: Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips

                A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.

                > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
                use
                > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
                > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
                nice.

                I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20.  The drawback is
                that it has to be plugged in.  I found that using a large piece of
                corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well. 
                The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
                smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying.  Wood, like
                plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well.  The hotknife isn't
                hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
                will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace.  I
                set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire. 
                I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting. 

                > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
                do
                > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
                about
                > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
                > Jardine's book).

                I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon.  I use a few,
                very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
                to the waterproofness of the finished item.  You can also rub a
                little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
                sealing the finished item, if needed.

                > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
                the
                > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
                work.
                > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
                > sewing is done.

                Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
                regular ripstop.  I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
                circles of fabric.  My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
                diameter.  I then mark the center of the circle of fabric.  Now,
                place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
                reinforce.  Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
                the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing.  This
                has 2 advantages:  1)  the reinforcement is exactly the right size
                and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
                edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
                fabric unnecessary.  Using a large circle of fabric should get you
                several corner reinforcements.

                My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
                the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
                my pattern.  Works great.

                > Anyone have silnylon tips?

                Finger tack.  This means holding the fabric together with your
                fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
                and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle.  Gently pull
                the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
                pieces of fabric with your hands.  This will help get both pieces of
                fabric to feed evenly.  Also, set your thread tension on scrap
                fabric.  If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
                your tension using two scraps.  The fabric tension on fabric this
                thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
                sewn together. 

                Hope this is useful.

                ciyd

              • firefly
                Chet, if you still have your hammock on the steel stand, would you please take a close up picture of how you have it attached and add it to the group files, or
                Message 7 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                  Chet, if you still have your hammock on the steel stand, would you please take a close up picture of how you have it attached and add it to the group files, or send it to me directly? Group files is probably best if that is not too much trouble. Thanks!

                  Marsanne

                   

                • Chet Clocksin
                  Marsanne, I added 2 photos of the 4 wrap knot tied to the steel stand. They re in chet s home made folder on the group photo section. Let me know if they re
                  Message 8 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                    Marsanne,
                    I added 2 photos of the 4 wrap knot tied to the steel stand. They're in "chet's home made" folder on the group photo section. Let me know if they're not clear enough, or if you want me to send them to you directly. The knots have held without slipping, but I find that if I want to adjust the height I can twist and pull them with some effort and move them up or down on the stand without untying / re-tying.
                     
                    Chet
                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: firefly [mailto:firefly@...]
                    Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 9:10 AM
                    To: hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [Hammock Camping] Chet!

                    Chet, if you still have your hammock on the steel stand, would you please take a close up picture of how you have it attached and add it to the group files, or send it to me directly? Group files is probably best if that is not too much trouble. Thanks!

                    Marsanne

                     


                  • firefly
                    Thank you. This helps. M Marsanne, I added 2 photos of the 4 wrap knot tied to the steel stand. They re in chet s home made folder on the group photo
                    Message 9 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                      Thank you. This helps.

                      M

                       

                       

                      Marsanne,

                      I added 2 photos of the 4 wrap knot tied to the steel stand. They're in "chet's home made" folder on the group photo section. Let me know if they're not clear enough, or if you want me to send them to you directly. The knots have held without slipping, but I find that if I want to adjust the height I can twist and pull them with some effort and move them up or down on the stand without untying / re-tying.

                       

                       

                    • Risk
                      ... Chet, Ed Speer has a great way of tying this knot to make sure it does not slip down the vertical pole. Once he has done the 4 wrap knot, he takes the end
                      Message 10 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                        --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Chet Clocksin"
                        <cclocksin@b...> wrote:
                        > Marsanne,
                        > I added 2 photos of the 4 wrap knot tied to the steel stand.

                        Chet,

                        Ed Speer has a great way of tying this knot to make sure it does not
                        slip down the vertical pole.

                        Once he has done the 4 wrap knot, he takes the end of the webbing over
                        the top rail and then back to the 4-wrap knot, tying it off with an
                        easy to release loop knot. This eliminates any tendency of the knot
                        to slip down the pole. For some types of smooth poles, this could be
                        important.

                        Rick
                      • firefly
                        I would like to see a close up picture of this technique, if anybody has one. I cannot see the pictures in the book. I mean, they are there, but they are too
                        Message 11 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                          I would like to see a close up picture of this technique, if anybody has
                          one. I cannot see the pictures in the book. I mean, they are there, but they
                          are too dark. Also, would it work with ropes, too, or just straps?
                          M


                          Chet,

                          Ed Speer has a great way of tying this knot to make sure it does not
                          slip down the vertical pole.

                          Once he has done the 4 wrap knot, he takes the end of the webbing over
                          the top rail and then back to the 4-wrap knot, tying it off with an
                          easy to release loop knot. This eliminates any tendency of the knot
                          to slip down the pole. For some types of smooth poles, this could be
                          important.

                          Rick
                        • Chet Clocksin
                          Risk has great pictures of tying this knot on his website www.imrisk.com Scroll down toward the bottom of the page and look under the heading HAMMOCK CAMPING
                          Message 12 of 12 , Apr 1, 2004
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                            Risk has great pictures of tying this knot on his website   www.imrisk.com
                             
                            Scroll down toward the bottom of the page and look under the heading HAMMOCK CAMPING REFERENCES
                             
                            Chet
                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: firefly [mailto:firefly@...]
                            Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 11:35 AM
                            To: hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: RE: [Hammock Camping] Chet!

                            I would like to see a close up  picture of this technique, if anybody has
                            one. I cannot see the pictures in the book. I mean, they are there, but they
                            are too dark.  Also, would it work with ropes, too, or just straps?
                            M


                            Chet,

                            Ed Speer has a great way of tying this knot to make sure it does not
                            slip down the vertical pole.

                            Once he has done the 4 wrap knot, he takes the end of the webbing over
                            the top rail and then back to the 4-wrap knot, tying it off with an
                            easy to release loop knot.  This eliminates any tendency of the knot
                            to slip down the pole.  For some types of smooth poles, this could be
                            important.

                            Rick




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