RE: Hammock Camping marge-
- I am not sewing yet, but my mind is working. My daughter sewed a quilt last
year, she did not like it, so I am going to start there, go borrow hers. It
was made with thinsulite and something else. I am not the sewer in the
family. When you mentioned Shock Cord in one of your other post, that made
sense to me. I could not understand elastic. I use shock cord for a number
of things including my shoe laces in my 804's. Thanks for such detail.
From: simva2020 <simva2020@...> [mailto:simva2020@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 2:45 AM
Subject: Hammock Camping marge-
My goal is 10 degrees with the underquilt, beyond that and I will
suspend the hammock just above the ground and use some sil-nyl panels
to create a dead air space between said ground and hammock...will
also and most importanly put pine needles, duff, leaves, etc. in that
space along with closes,pack,etc.
We are also playing with the ideal of a cone beneath the hammock.
This cone is to accomplish the same as above-a dead air
space....picture an ice cream cone, the ice cream is the hammock and
the cone will be sil-nyl panels from where the bug netting meets the
hammock proper going toward the ground but not nec. meeting the
ground. The panels dropping from each side will meet somewhere
between the hammock and the ground and join with cord or velcro on
the back of the cone and the front...so the cone has 2 slits one on
the head end and one on the foot end running parralel with the HH
entry slit (we tried to use it as storage but I could not reach into
the slit when I was in the hammock :( Ballast will be placed in the
cone (ballasts=hiking boots, backpack, spare clothes,etc.)
The purpose of the cone is not only to stop the constant motion of
air on the quilt and hammock bottom but to disturb/stop/disrupt
venturis that form under the hammock...if you study venturis you will
see that they form whenever air moves over a curved surface. I know
you sleep relatively flat in the HH but it is still curved. Venturis
drastically speed up the air speed over the offending surface-all the
more reason to have an undquilt.....at one time we considered draping
sil-nyl panels to the ground but
1. you never actually know how far down the ground will be
2. once connected to the ground the entire hammock-panel system acts
like a weather vane and must fight the wind
The cone easily allows the wind to pass without trying to catch it.
If you did a cone alone you would find a sig. difference in the temp
on the bottom surface of the hammock when occupied. Remember the cone
need not be large and for more clarity of what it looks like remember
that it angles from the foot end and the head end toward the middle
as the two panels come together.
Also, and possibly more important once you have an underquilt is to
close up the netting-the netting is worthless in these temps (havent
seen many mosquitos or black flies at 20F so I am studying Pertex
panels that will occlude the netting area, excepting small areas near
the supporting rope for ventilation.
Now we know what to do, the challenge is doing all of this with the
least weight. So far I am enjoying these numbers:
HH A-sym 31 oz.
Arc Alpinist 22oz.
Underquilt 18oz. (planned)
2 sil nyl panels 3oz.
Haven't yet goten any Pertex for the netting panels but def. wanted
something that will breath.....
are you sewing yet?
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