Re: Dave/Ed...consider the 'inverted cone' below the hammock.....
- --- In email@example.com, "ciyd01" <ciyd@a...> wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "web_dawg" <web_dawg@y...>(the
> > 2. I wanted a two layer system, so I am using two prequilted 0.4"
> > Primaloft layers.
> You'll still need to quilt it to the top layer of the underquilt
> one touching the hammock) to keep the primaloft from shifting.Actually, after it was stiched to the shell (or liner as the case may
> Unless it comes quilted to fabric. Otherwise, use long basting
be), and then both layers were attached together, there really was
no shifting. We will see though how it works on the nylon, which
is more slick. Right now its on cotton muslin which "sticks" to the
insulation. I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
> > Since the moisture, if/when it collects, will be seperated fromthe
> > underside of thecondensation
> > hammock (and me) by a small air gap and the insulation, I didn't
> > figure I would be
> > having to worry much about condensation.
> Until you pack up in the morning at which time all that
> has to go somewhere and the only way out of the quilt is throughthe
> insulation. I'll try the WPB and we can compare notes as to whichSure, it will be good to compare. I will have the top layer be a
> one does better in the PNW, ok?
ripstop nylon, which should breath enough to let it evaporate.
I also considered putting in some "drain holes" in the outer shell
near the lowest point of the depression under my weight. The
idea being to have small drains for condensation to escape, but
still not let the wind wisk away all my accumulated heat.
Not sure yet if I will do it though. I'll try w/out first.
> > Having assembled my first prototype, I can see the attraction tothem
> > down. The
> > compression of Primaloft is not as good as down, and therefore, I
> > will need to
> > fabricate new snakeskins so I can roll up the underquilt into
> > well.
> Have you considered leaving the rainfly out of the snakeskins to
> room for the underquilt? The fly is going to be sopping wet in theNot really, I guess I assumed it didn't add much volume so it
> morning, anyway. Primaloft feels more compressible than Polarguard
> 3D and it is supposed to be less absorbent.
wouldn't make much difference to remove it before I put on
the SnakeSkins. I'll have to give your idea a try though and
see what kind of difference it really makes. Thanks.
> > BTW, the local outdoor fabric store has silnylon on 60" bolts in
> > light grey, black, and
> > neon yellow for $8.50/yd (IIRC, maybe $9.50). Thier website is
> > being built, but it
> > provides thier phone number, http://www.therainshed.com/
> > (541/753-8900).
> Do they sell Primaloft, too? Seattle Fabrics is high priced
> ($11.50/yd for 1.3 oz silnylon) and only sells Thinsulate which is
> not suitable for sleeping bags or quilts. I'm due for a trip to
> Portland, so I might stop in and do some shopping, sales tax free,
> the Rain Shed.They do sell Primaloft as follows:
Weight Thickness Price
Quilted Sport - 1.8oz/yd - 0.4" - $5/50/yd
Unquilted Sport - 3.0oz/yd - 0.6" - $6.00/yd
Unquilted Sport - 4.0oz/yd - 0.8" - $8.00/yd
Unquilted Sport - 6.0oz/yd - 1.2" - $11.75/yd
They also have Hollofil II for $5.50/yd, Polarguard HV at 1.5" thick
A correction in the SilNylon, its in 65" width bolts and is $9.50/yd.
They're 1.9oz rip stop is $6.00/yd for 60" widths, Micro denier
ripstop, 1.4oz, is $8.50/yd.
10% off 10-19 yards bought from the same roll, 20% off for 20 or more
yards from the same roll.
If you like fleece, this is your store. Every imaginable kind I have
ever seen. I really don't work there, but I sure love browsing there.
If you make it to Portland, then you'll need to drive another 90
minutes to Corvallis to get to the store. They're open for walk in
business Tues-Sat, 9;30-5:30, or phone orders Mon-Sat.
Really, I don't know anyone who works there and I don't make a
comission, I'm just really impressed with thier selection.