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Re: interesting hang

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  • Chris
    I am condidering a bolt on solution so that I can run a chain link fence top rail from my front rack to the rear rack. I am trying to figure out how to have a
    Message 1 of 9 , Jul 9, 2009
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      I am condidering a bolt on solution so that I can run a chain link fence top rail from my front rack to the rear rack. I am trying to figure out how to have a quick pin release at the front and something similar at the rear but I haven't had the time to really invest in it yet. Maybe I will have more time this weekend.

      I found a bolt on top rail end cap and I can do something similar on the other end if I can keep it supported. The problem I am seeing is that there is a lot of flex both up and down with the tolerances in teh standard receiver hitch setup. When I tie to the hitch mounted rack I have a lot of movement in the receiver just by the nature of the slip fit of a receiver. By having this much slop in there I am afraid that I will have issues with the cross bar trying to pull out so I will have to bolt through or pin it to keep it together. Not a big deal, it just adds to the parts to have to keep up with.

      I have several family members that are welders so when I get home I may make a stronger bed extender piece anyway. I can deal with the additional weight because it is in 3 pieces. I can't deal with the welds breaking. I am pretty surethat the only piece I need to make stronger is the bottom piece. The top piece seems to be fine. I may make it differently because even with the setup I have, I can make it stronger and lighter by removing some of the bolt on parts and just welding collars on the vertical pieces. This will clear up some of the slop in the movemement as well.

      I have a picture of me in it that I will try to post just for fun. Reality is, I was just a little bored and thought I could get something to work while I have been traveling. If I get it to work, I can have a stronger solution built when I get back home in a couple months.

      Thank you all very much for the suggestions. I will post up the finished product as well.

      As far as costs, I had a coupon for the bed extender and it cost $31 plus tax. I bought a 18" receiver tube for $14 and the piece of steel that connects the two cost $20 at the local brick and mortar because they had it in stock and I didn't have time to shop around really. Total cost of the functioning parts is about $65 so far.

      I added another $15 worth of bolts and washers and the other support fixes that will be discarded. Those won't factor in to the cost of the finished product, when I get it working.

      The 5/8" drill bit to drill the steel was another $18 for that one stinking bit. You don't have to go 5/8" but that is the standard hitch pin size on a class III hitch. I had the rest of the bits and tools handy.

      Yes I will eventually end up with more in this than I would have in a cheap hammock stand. the thing about this is that I can hang wherever I can park my truck which isn't always where I could put a hammock stand in addition to my truck. It is also just a fun conversation piece and the bed extender will work with the kayak.


      Thanks,
      Chris
    • Chris
      I am also considering getting a longer 5/8 bolt and using a 2x4 to go from the top bolt hole of the receiver tube over to the tailgate for support on the
      Message 2 of 9 , Jul 9, 2009
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        I am also considering getting a longer 5/8 bolt and using a 2x4 to go from the top bolt hole of the receiver tube over to the tailgate for support on the vertical. If you look at this picture. there is a bolt holding the rusty piece to the black piece in the middle. I can get a 7" 5/8 bolt and put a 2x4 on either side of it there to help with stability and put it right against the tailgate with some notches in the board. I may even use a 2x6 and cut a slip notch out of the 2x6 so that it can slide in and out with some tension and still not fall off the tailgate.

        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hammockcamping/photos/album/252781731/pic/46291612/view


        Again, most of these are temporary fixes until I can just engineer something that is self sufficient. I only have a byer hammock now but Kent has a ENO doublenest so I need to tie his up too and see how it fits the distance. I may end up going closer so I can put eye bolts in the top cross piece and just clip the hammocks straight to the racks.

        Thanks again,
        Chris
      • R Swink
        I saw a truck yesterday that had 2 receivers on the passenger side that they had a pipe hauling system built up in. Not sure where it came from and I didn t
        Message 3 of 9 , Jul 12, 2009
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          I saw a truck yesterday that had 2 receivers on the passenger side that they
          had a pipe hauling system built up in. Not sure where it came from and I
          didn't have a camera with me.



          On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 11:19 PM, Troy and Ronda <gilmem2@...> wrote:

          > Good plan, Chris.
          >
          > Instead of strengthening the Receiver support, you can run a rigid
          > horizontal support from the extended receiver post horizontally to the
          > headache rack. This offsets the horizontal forces, which are what broke the
          > weld. If you do not have much sag, horizontal forces can be VERY high.
          >
          > Something as light as a 2x2 lumber, or 3/4 inch conduit will do it with
          > reasonable sag.
          >
          > I have hung from two tripods from time to time. Will not work without a
          > cross piece. Works easily with one. I like bamboo for the cross piece,
          > because a pole one inch in diameter at the small end will do, and weighs
          > next to nothing.
          >
          > For reference, I weigh in around 250#
          >
          > -tg
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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