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Re: [Hammock Camping] Re: Very tall man

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  • Brian Neeley
    Ralph Oborn wrote: I did have to buy my own rope for the hammock, so I went to Sears, and bought some
    Message 1 of 15 , Jan 5, 2007
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      Ralph Oborn <Ralph.oborn@...> wrote: I did have to buy my own rope for the hammock, so I went to Sears, and
      bought some 100-lb. test polypropylene reduced-stretch soft rope,
      <snip>

      I figured that doubling this rope on each
      end would give me a 400-lb. strength, more than enough to cover my near
      300-lb weight (remembering that I'm 6' 8"). Seems to work. I use the
      carabiners to clip the rope end to the "S"-hook on the end of the hammock.




      .On

      One other thing to consider, ANY knot (or more specifically, bend) that you put in your rope will reduce its strength. A good old square knot reduces the breaking strength by HALF. A clove hitch is much better, reducing the strength by (I forget exactly), say 10 - 20%. Splices are great, only reducing strength by about 5%. But splices aren't easy, and they are permanent (but maybe that is what you want...).
      Basically, any time you bend your rope double, you halve your strength.
      So, like someone else said, buy harness strapping. That should be plenty strong enough; and then it's a simple matter to use some of the clips or buckles some people love so much.
      Sorry, I don't know anything about those buckles, I've never used 'em. I haven't even tied my hammock up since early in the spring :(.

      Brian



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    • David Elliott
      If you use hollow-braid rope, splices are easily adjustable. They re also the easiest splices to make - you re just doubling the end back and running it
      Message 2 of 15 , Jan 6, 2007
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        If you use hollow-braid rope, splices are easily adjustable. They're also
        the easiest splices to make - you're just doubling the end back and running
        it through the center cavity of the rope for 6 inches or so and back out
        again. When there's tension on the splice it doesn't budge (like a Chinese
        finger trap), but when you take the tension off you can slide the rope
        either way, making the loop larger or smaller. I put the splice at least 6
        feet from the end of the rope and close to the end that attaches to the
        hammock. That way my end loop can be adjusted to short (3 inches) or long
        (3 feet) or anywhere in between. This is easily done after the hammock is
        put up as long as nobody is in it. Try it with cheap polypropylene rope
        first (make sure it's strong enough), but if you're like me and value
        compactness in addition to light weight you'll switch to spectra. Wakeboard
        rope (1500 lb.+ test?) is fine, but I recently got some Amsteel 7/64" rope
        (1200 lb. test) which packs up very small. One caveat: it is so thin that
        it doesn't look strong enough to hold you. I've had two humans and a dog in
        my hammock, but it took some persuading to get the second human in. You can
        make a splicing tool from a piece of stiff wire, doubled. Reach through the
        center of the rope and pull a loop of string through, then use the string to
        pull the rope back the other way.

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      • natesdenn71
        My hammock came with 6mm climbing rope. This has worked great! I also bought two sections of 1/2 inch tubular webbing each 12ft. long from a climbing shop to
        Message 3 of 15 , Jan 6, 2007
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          My hammock came with 6mm climbing rope. This has worked great! I
          also bought two sections of 1/2 inch tubular webbing each 12ft. long
          from a climbing shop to use a tree straps. I went with a lot of
          webbing to make sure I could tie up on MOST trees. I have pics of my
          set up on the group page under "Nates Hammock" I am also a big guy at
          6'2" 280lbs. My system has not shown any signs of failing (yet)!!
          Good luck!
        • Sandy Kramer
          i ordered the double treklight...what is the recommended length of rope ... total to purchase?? (then cut in half) ... and bought some 100-lb. test
          Message 4 of 15 , Jan 8, 2007
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            i ordered the double treklight...what is the recommended length of
            rope ... total to purchase?? (then cut in half)


            --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Keith YOung <tory1942@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > I did have to buy my own rope for the hammock, so I went to Sears,
            and bought some 100-lb. test polypropylene reduced-stretch soft rope,
            and burned the ends to prevent un-raveling. I figured that doubling
            this rope on each end would give me a 400-lb. strength, more than
            enough to cover my near 300-lb weight (remembering that I'm 6' 8").
            Seems to work. I use the carabiners to clip the rope end to the "S"-
            hook on the end of the hammock.
            >
            >
          • Keith YOung
            Hi, Sandy, I bought a 50 package of 100# test polypropylene soft rope from Sears, then cut that length in half, seal/melting the ends with a flame. However,
            Message 5 of 15 , Jan 8, 2007
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              Hi, Sandy,

              I bought a 50' package of 100# test polypropylene soft rope from Sears, then cut that length in half, seal/melting the ends with a flame.

              However, look at the other posts on the topic of "very tall man." It seems that the strains on the lines is much more than I'd anticipated. Handing a hammock (indoors) with a sag of about 30 deg. seems best, but the strains on EACH rope are at least equal to my weight (a bit less than 300 lbs. -- which is in proportion to my height at 6' 8"). Figure out the strtains, based on your own weight. Look up Youngblood's chart, at the files part of this Yahoo Club.

              I've doubled each rope, but am now looking at woven polyester strapping tape (possibly tubular), "MuleTape" or climber's rope, with a test strength of about 800 to 1200 lbs. range.

              I don't have to pay quite so much attention to ultralight philosophy, since I'll be on my motor scooter (but, at 650cc's, it's a "fire-breathing, wolf-in-sheep's-clothing" scooter), and it will carry the weight for me. If the temperature drops down close to 50 deg F., it's a motel for sure.

              Since I'm inside, and in the spare upstairs bedroom this winter, I've drilled out holes in 90-year-old red oak studs, put in screw-eyes with a twist bar and also placed a bunch of cushions and pillows under me, until I get this right.

              Sandy Kramer <sandykayak@...> wrote:

              i ordered the double treklight...what is the recommended length of
              rope ... total to purchase?? (then cut in half)

              --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Keith YOung <tory1942@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > I did have to buy my own rope for the hammock, so I went to Sears,
              and bought some 100-lb. test polypropylene reduced-stretch soft rope,
              and burned the ends to prevent un-raveling. I figured that doubling
              this rope on each end would give me a 400-lb. strength, more than
              enough to cover my near 300-lb weight (remembering that I'm 6' 8").
              Seems to work. I use the carabiners to clip the rope end to the "S"-
              hook on the end of the hammock.
              >
              >





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            • terry_and_pearl
              Polyester webbing works really great. Very little to no stretch and doesn t abrade or absorb water like nylon. Don t get the real thick stuff. Also, the
              Message 6 of 15 , Jan 8, 2007
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                Polyester webbing works really great. Very little to no stretch and
                doesn't abrade or absorb water like nylon. Don't get the real thick
                stuff. Also, the polyester webbing works as your tree hugger as well
                as the suspension. Form the webbing into a giant loop and girth hitch
                to the tree with the free end hooked into the carabiner and then
                tighten with a double ring buckle. In this manner you will have 2
                lengths of webbing suspending the hammock from the tree, each with
                half the load.

                A double ring buckle works very good. As good as a cam buckle to
                tighten. A little trickier to loosen, but once you learn the trick it
                is easy and simple to loosen also. Also, the double ring buckle will
                be a lot stronger than the cam buckle and won't have any abrasive
                effect on the webbing like a cam buckle could.

                I use 1,000 lb, 1" polyester webbing. These from Harbor Frieght:

                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40063

                work really great. Cut off the cam buckle and sew another loop in its
                place with 2 rings in the loop.

                I use the SMC descending rings. They're AL with a very high rated
                capacity, light and cheap (about $2.50 each, you will need 4):

                http://www.smcgear.net/products.asp?cat=5&pid=44

                Using these, a double ring buckle will weigh only about 0.8 oz - good
                even for those that watch their weight and the webbing is very light also.
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