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Re: Ring-and-toggle adjustment

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  • Coy
    cool! David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would just start with your
    Message 1 of 9 , Sep 6, 2006

      David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to
      save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would
      just start with your 20 foot strap folded in half. Face the tree
      with your back pointed to the other tree. Take the center of your
      strap and place it against the tree and pass both ends around the
      tree. They will come out on the other side (opposite side they
      started on but coming back toward you) but stay spread however wide
      the tree is. Now take both ends but only put one through the ring
      at your hammock and pull it to the proper (a guess) tightness. come
      towards this strap with the other strap and have them lay directly
      on top of each other only they will be headed in opposite
      directions. place the ring on top and pull both straps up through
      it and put the toggle in place. to avoid any possible sliding you
      could just take the ends (now headed away from each other and tie a
      bow (shoe knot) back across the top of the toggle.

      or just sew a loop in the end of your strap (like you did to hold
      the ring) only just pass the bitter end through it. this would make
      a chocker. all adjustment would be made at the loop and toggle.

      Coy Boy

      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Chinell, David F \(GE
      Indust, Security\)" <david.chinell@...> wrote:
      > Hangers:
      > Here's part two of my weekend experiments.
      > Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to
      get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I
      decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I
      couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with
      respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).
      > Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of
      you are able to use it to good effect.
      > This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter
      end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and
      let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to
      me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are
      photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."
      > Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside
      diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a
      couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.
      > I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the
      supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through
      the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This
      puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot
      from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.
      > My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of
      1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I
      also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.
      > To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes
      however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree
      diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you
      have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock
      and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).
      > Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back
      along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going
      to lie on top of each other in the end.)
      > When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing,
      reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing
      (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through
      the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring.
      Square and align everything.
      > That's it.
      > I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the
      bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished
      to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no
      chance of misaligned webbing).
      > Additional notes:
      > I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of
      ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle
      would do the same job.
      > In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch
      diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and
      that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels
      where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had
      > The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod
      with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less
      thing to juggle.
      > Toggle stick only - knotless knot
      > Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no
      hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my
      Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through
      the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.
      > As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree
      webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up
      through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's
      adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two
      strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep
      the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the
      standing run over both sides of the toggle.
      > There. That's my weekend.
      > Bear
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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