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Re: [Hammock Camping] sleeping bag (opened up) as an underquilt?

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  • jack_tier
    ... down so ... insulation ... of the ... the down ... of the ... true ... of ... conditions. ... up ... could ... FWIW, most of the JRB quilts have the
    Message 1 of 9 , Sep 2, 2006
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      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "gtvlfed" <jneale@...> wrote:
      >
      > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Rick <ra1@> wrote:
      > >
      > > The important factors in using down as an underquilt in cold
      > > temperatures (my experience) are:
      > > - finding a way to not compress the outer fabric against the
      down so
      > > that it compresses the down and decreases the amount of
      insulation
      > > - finding a way to make sure that the down is against the bottom
      of the
      > > hammock (finding a way to eliminate an air compartment between
      the down
      > > and the hammock)
      > >
      > > I have not found a way of doing that without using the surface
      of the
      > > hammock as the top surface of the down enclosing space.
      >
      >
      > Thanks Rick & Jeff, both sets of comments are helpful. And it's
      true
      > that the more insulation, the greater the tendancy to sag away from
      > the hammock bottom... or overtighten and compress the down.
      >
      > I failed to mention the I'm working with a HH and do like the idea
      of
      > the flexibility to change of remove the underquilt to match
      conditions.
      >
      > Just a thought, is it feasible to have a series of attachment
      > mechanisms (ie. ties) sewn to the bottom of a HH that would match
      up
      > with ties/grommets on the topside of the underquilt so that it
      could
      > be held close and not compress... regardless of the weight of the
      > occupant?
      >
      > Jim
      >

      FWIW, most of the JRB quilts have the mounting tabs for use as an
      under quilt....they are designed to be doubled up as necessary for
      weather below 30 degrees....many use their No Sniveller below their
      Nest and a suitable winter bag from their old gear locker on
      top...Or if weight is an issue, the ORM is a true winter quilt at 3+
      inches of loft for a single layer...

      Pan
    • Chinell, David F (GE Indust, Security)
      I just posted three new pictures, but I have no idea to which album. I also posted them to MY album, Bear s Pix. They re all titled Ring-and-toggle is
      Message 2 of 9 , Sep 5, 2006
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        I just posted three new pictures, but I have no idea to which album. I also posted them to MY album, "Bear's Pix."

        They're all titled "Ring-and-toggle" is there any way you can find them and remove them from the wrong folder?

        Bear


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Chinell, David F (GE Indust, Security)
        Hangers: Here s part two of my weekend experiments. Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to get easy adjustment without untying and
        Message 3 of 9 , Sep 5, 2006
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          Hangers:

          Here's part two of my weekend experiments.

          Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).

          Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of you are able to use it to good effect.

          This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."

          Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.

          I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.

          My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of 1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.

          To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).

          Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going to lie on top of each other in the end.)

          When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing, reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring. Square and align everything.

          That's it.

          I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no chance of misaligned webbing).

          Additional notes:

          I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle would do the same job.

          In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had handy.

          The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less thing to juggle.

          Toggle stick only - knotless knot

          Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.

          As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the standing run over both sides of the toggle.

          There. That's my weekend.

          Bear


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Coy
          cool! David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would just start with your
          Message 4 of 9 , Sep 6, 2006
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            cool!

            David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to
            save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would
            just start with your 20 foot strap folded in half. Face the tree
            with your back pointed to the other tree. Take the center of your
            strap and place it against the tree and pass both ends around the
            tree. They will come out on the other side (opposite side they
            started on but coming back toward you) but stay spread however wide
            the tree is. Now take both ends but only put one through the ring
            at your hammock and pull it to the proper (a guess) tightness. come
            towards this strap with the other strap and have them lay directly
            on top of each other only they will be headed in opposite
            directions. place the ring on top and pull both straps up through
            it and put the toggle in place. to avoid any possible sliding you
            could just take the ends (now headed away from each other and tie a
            bow (shoe knot) back across the top of the toggle.

            or just sew a loop in the end of your strap (like you did to hold
            the ring) only just pass the bitter end through it. this would make
            a chocker. all adjustment would be made at the loop and toggle.

            Coy Boy

            --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Chinell, David F \(GE
            Indust, Security\)" <david.chinell@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hangers:
            >
            > Here's part two of my weekend experiments.
            >
            > Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to
            get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I
            decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I
            couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with
            respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).
            >
            > Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of
            you are able to use it to good effect.
            >
            > This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter
            end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and
            let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to
            me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are
            photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."
            >
            > Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside
            diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a
            couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.
            >
            > I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the
            supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through
            the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This
            puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot
            from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.
            >
            > My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of
            1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I
            also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.
            >
            > To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes
            however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree
            diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you
            have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock
            and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).
            >
            > Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back
            along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going
            to lie on top of each other in the end.)
            >
            > When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing,
            reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing
            (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through
            the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring.
            Square and align everything.
            >
            > That's it.
            >
            > I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the
            bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished
            to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no
            chance of misaligned webbing).
            >
            > Additional notes:
            >
            > I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of
            ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle
            would do the same job.
            >
            > In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch
            diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and
            that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels
            where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had
            handy.
            >
            > The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod
            with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less
            thing to juggle.
            >
            > Toggle stick only - knotless knot
            >
            > Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no
            hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my
            Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through
            the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.
            >
            > As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree
            webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up
            through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's
            adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two
            strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep
            the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the
            standing run over both sides of the toggle.
            >
            > There. That's my weekend.
            >
            > Bear
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
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