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Re: [Hammock Camping] sleeping bag (opened up) as an underquilt?

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  • Jeff
    ... Yes. Hammock Hanger on TrailForums (and sometimes no whiteblaze) made one like that. I don t know how adjustable it is for the weight of the occupant,
    Message 1 of 9 , Sep 1, 2006
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      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "gtvlfed" <jneale@...> wrote:
      > Just a thought, is it feasible to have a series of attachment
      > mechanisms (ie. ties) sewn to the bottom of a HH that would match up
      > with ties/grommets on the topside of the underquilt so that it could
      > be held close and not compress... regardless of the weight of the
      > occupant?

      Yes. Hammock Hanger on TrailForums (and sometimes no whiteblaze) made
      one like that. I don't know how adjustable it is for the weight of
      the occupant, but she sewed tabs onto the HH to match her underquilt
      tabs. A simple cordlock would make it adjustable.

      Another idea is to run elastic or shockcord inside the top shell. For
      synthetic, just put the quilting loops around the shockcord and it'll
      help pull the top layer against the hammock w/o compressing the
      insulation. Haven't tested to see if it's worth the weight, though.

      Jeff
    • jack_tier
      ... down so ... insulation ... of the ... the down ... of the ... true ... of ... conditions. ... up ... could ... FWIW, most of the JRB quilts have the
      Message 2 of 9 , Sep 2, 2006
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        --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "gtvlfed" <jneale@...> wrote:
        >
        > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Rick <ra1@> wrote:
        > >
        > > The important factors in using down as an underquilt in cold
        > > temperatures (my experience) are:
        > > - finding a way to not compress the outer fabric against the
        down so
        > > that it compresses the down and decreases the amount of
        insulation
        > > - finding a way to make sure that the down is against the bottom
        of the
        > > hammock (finding a way to eliminate an air compartment between
        the down
        > > and the hammock)
        > >
        > > I have not found a way of doing that without using the surface
        of the
        > > hammock as the top surface of the down enclosing space.
        >
        >
        > Thanks Rick & Jeff, both sets of comments are helpful. And it's
        true
        > that the more insulation, the greater the tendancy to sag away from
        > the hammock bottom... or overtighten and compress the down.
        >
        > I failed to mention the I'm working with a HH and do like the idea
        of
        > the flexibility to change of remove the underquilt to match
        conditions.
        >
        > Just a thought, is it feasible to have a series of attachment
        > mechanisms (ie. ties) sewn to the bottom of a HH that would match
        up
        > with ties/grommets on the topside of the underquilt so that it
        could
        > be held close and not compress... regardless of the weight of the
        > occupant?
        >
        > Jim
        >

        FWIW, most of the JRB quilts have the mounting tabs for use as an
        under quilt....they are designed to be doubled up as necessary for
        weather below 30 degrees....many use their No Sniveller below their
        Nest and a suitable winter bag from their old gear locker on
        top...Or if weight is an issue, the ORM is a true winter quilt at 3+
        inches of loft for a single layer...

        Pan
      • Chinell, David F (GE Indust, Security)
        I just posted three new pictures, but I have no idea to which album. I also posted them to MY album, Bear s Pix. They re all titled Ring-and-toggle is
        Message 3 of 9 , Sep 5, 2006
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          I just posted three new pictures, but I have no idea to which album. I also posted them to MY album, "Bear's Pix."

          They're all titled "Ring-and-toggle" is there any way you can find them and remove them from the wrong folder?

          Bear


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Chinell, David F (GE Indust, Security)
          Hangers: Here s part two of my weekend experiments. Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to get easy adjustment without untying and
          Message 4 of 9 , Sep 5, 2006
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            Hangers:

            Here's part two of my weekend experiments.

            Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).

            Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of you are able to use it to good effect.

            This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."

            Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.

            I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.

            My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of 1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.

            To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).

            Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going to lie on top of each other in the end.)

            When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing, reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring. Square and align everything.

            That's it.

            I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no chance of misaligned webbing).

            Additional notes:

            I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle would do the same job.

            In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had handy.

            The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less thing to juggle.

            Toggle stick only - knotless knot

            Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.

            As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the standing run over both sides of the toggle.

            There. That's my weekend.

            Bear


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Coy
            cool! David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would just start with your
            Message 5 of 9 , Sep 6, 2006
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              cool!

              David, have you tried to eliminate the ring up next to the tree (to
              save some weight). Using the ring and toggle you have you would
              just start with your 20 foot strap folded in half. Face the tree
              with your back pointed to the other tree. Take the center of your
              strap and place it against the tree and pass both ends around the
              tree. They will come out on the other side (opposite side they
              started on but coming back toward you) but stay spread however wide
              the tree is. Now take both ends but only put one through the ring
              at your hammock and pull it to the proper (a guess) tightness. come
              towards this strap with the other strap and have them lay directly
              on top of each other only they will be headed in opposite
              directions. place the ring on top and pull both straps up through
              it and put the toggle in place. to avoid any possible sliding you
              could just take the ends (now headed away from each other and tie a
              bow (shoe knot) back across the top of the toggle.

              or just sew a loop in the end of your strap (like you did to hold
              the ring) only just pass the bitter end through it. this would make
              a chocker. all adjustment would be made at the loop and toggle.

              Coy Boy

              --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "Chinell, David F \(GE
              Indust, Security\)" <david.chinell@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hangers:
              >
              > Here's part two of my weekend experiments.
              >
              > Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to
              get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I
              decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I
              couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with
              respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).
              >
              > Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of
              you are able to use it to good effect.
              >
              > This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter
              end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and
              let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to
              me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are
              photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."
              >
              > Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside
              diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a
              couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.
              >
              > I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the
              supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through
              the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This
              puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot
              from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.
              >
              > My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of
              1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I
              also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.
              >
              > To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes
              however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree
              diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you
              have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock
              and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).
              >
              > Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back
              along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going
              to lie on top of each other in the end.)
              >
              > When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing,
              reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing
              (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through
              the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring.
              Square and align everything.
              >
              > That's it.
              >
              > I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the
              bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished
              to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no
              chance of misaligned webbing).
              >
              > Additional notes:
              >
              > I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of
              ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle
              would do the same job.
              >
              > In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch
              diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and
              that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels
              where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had
              handy.
              >
              > The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod
              with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less
              thing to juggle.
              >
              > Toggle stick only - knotless knot
              >
              > Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no
              hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my
              Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through
              the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.
              >
              > As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree
              webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up
              through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's
              adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two
              strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep
              the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the
              standing run over both sides of the toggle.
              >
              > There. That's my weekend.
              >
              > Bear
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
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