- also in yosimite, they require anyone setting up a slackline to a softwood tree to pad where the webbing goes around the tree. most people simply take sticksMessage 1 of 43 , Jun 2, 2006View Sourcealso in yosimite, they require anyone setting up a slackline to a softwood tree
to pad where the webbing goes around the tree. most people simply take
sticks and break them to a few inches long, then they place them vertically
between the webbing and the tree spaced 6 inches apart or so, this way the
webbing barely even touches the tree. if you did something like this, you
wouldn't have to carry in straps or padding, it would take a little longer to set
--- In email@example.com, "kbwaddy" <kbwaddy@...>
> be careful with anything made out of technora, several companies
> for sure) have quit using it because when knots are weighted and thenuntied
> the fibers where the knot was are permanently damaged and weakened intechnora
> that spot. technora is not the same as spectra, usually when cord is
> or spectra or vectran or whatever, they are talking about the core, the sheath
> is almost always something less high-tech like polyester, polypro, or
> something similar. i don't know if body weight would be enough to cause
> failure, but if you're already using a weaker cord for weight reduction
> purposes, this might be a concern.
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "jonas4321" <jonas4321@>
> > Aside from the controversy about tying to trees, I wanted to expand on
> > Risk's assessment of issues using thin diameter cord to hang a hammock.
> > I use 3mm and 4mm Technora T100 to hang my hammocks, and noticed
> > on that the thin cord was going to damage the fabric of my hammock (I
> > had tied it using a double sheet bend to the hammock). I also broke 1
> > inch polypro webbing to which the 3mm cord was tied, supporting Risk's
> > belief that the thin cord would ultimately cut through webbing, at
> > least the narrower polypropylene webbing I was using.
> > To prevent these problems, I used 4' of 1 inch tubular nylon webbing
> > at each end of the hammock, doubled over and attached using a slipped
> > double sheet bend to create a 'hammock hugger' loop. I use 1.5 inch
> > and 2 inch (depending on which hammock I am using at the time) polypro
> > webbing as tree huggers, to which I clip a heavy aluminum carabiner (I
> > run the webbing through the biner twice). The webbing ends are secured
> > using side release buckles. The tree hugger webbing is 10' long,
> > allowing me to double-wrap any tree up to almost 2' in diameter.
> > Double wraps are necessary imo to take load off the buckle.
> > The T100 Technora (which is Spectra core, I believe) is tied at the
> > hammock loop using a clinch knot, wrapped through the 'eye' of the
> > loop twice before finishing. It is tied to the biner using the
> > figure-8 Hennessey wrap.
> > With this (admittedly not hyper-light) arrangement, I avoid webbing,
> > tree and fabric damage and have lightweight cords that are super
> > strong and almost stretch-free. After several nights, I see no damage
> > being inflicted on the tubular nylon webbing loops on the hammocks,
> > and the biners are very kind to the tree huggers.
> > Pictures posted under Jonas4321. Sorry for the blurry one... the
> > clinch knot is an easy one to find on the web, and other knots could
> > be used.
> > --- In email@example.com, Aris Dennis <apfel1984@>
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I picked up some 2mm spectra line today to try out as
> > > the hammock support ropes of my in-progress warm
> > > hammock. I wanted to get the 3mm (rated to 400kg) but
> > > they were out. This stuff is rated to 280kg. Will this
> > > be sufficient to use safely on the hammock?
- Hi Heather, If you decide to do a velcro pocket on the Hennessy, make sure you put darts in the fabric so it billows out. Also, you might want to contain theMessage 43 of 43 , Jun 9, 2006View SourceHi Heather,
If you decide to do a velcro pocket on the Hennessy,
make sure you put darts in the fabric so it billows
out. Also, you might want to contain the down in
something if you want it to be removable. I was very
careful and STILL got down everywhere. Finding bits of
it in my clothes still.
My pack is just made of some umproofed 2 oz ripstop
nylon. I didn't see the point in ordering special
waterproof material from America. All my commercial
packs leak, so I though I'd just buy the $1 a metre
stuff and have a very, very cheap pack. All my
is in double layers of silnylon anyway.
Let me know how you go with it.
--- fugglesrastus <fugglesrastus@...> wrote:
> I just had a look at your hammock. It looks good to
> me, I have a
> similar problem with a cold back from compression of
> the down of my
> sleeping bag. So I may try an addition, like yours,
> to my hennessey
> hammock to help with insulation for winter camping.
> Im thinking I
> may sow in a nylon pocket to stuff some extra down
> in, with a velcro
> close area, then in the summer months can leave the
> extra down at
> home, when its hot.
> Just wondering what sort/typ of material you made
> your pack from, as
> I am considering makeing my self a new pack due to
> my old faithfull
> is getting rather tired, and real light packs are
> not readilly
> available here in New Zealand.
> Cheers Heather
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Aris Dennis
> > My new warmhammock is finished!
> > I followed Rick's instructions, and put 4 oz of
> > loft down in it. I now have around 3 inches+ of
> > under me.
> > Thw whole thing, with 2mm spectra support ropes
> > stuff sack weights 535 grams (19 oz).
> > I'll be testing it in a couple of weeks around
> > freezing.
> > I also bought some silnylon and am going to make a
> > by 10 foot fly, ala Rick and Ray Garlington.
> Wonder if
> > this will be wide enough to protect the down
> > from side blown rain?
> > Aris
> > (who's packweight is now getting so light he's
> > happy with it...)
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