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Re: [Hammock Camping] Hammock support lines

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  • tim garner
    yeah... it`s amasing how trees can often times adapt & grow right around a cable or barb-wire fence, eye hook, nail, or even grow into each other & keep
    Message 1 of 43 , Jun 1, 2006
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      yeah... it`s amasing how trees can often times adapt & grow right around a cable or barb-wire fence, eye hook, nail, or even grow into each other & keep growing for years & years. but unfortuneantly, that`s not allways the case.
      people do all kinds of stuff to trees & a lot of the trees make it, but taking chances w/ trees isn`t the best way to preserve them, especialy in the places we love to hike & camp. and when people (like rangers) see damage to tree bark, it sure dosen`t help to promote hammocking. ...tim

      sebastiantoney <funbun2@...> wrote:
      Funny I was out at Lake Nicole and there is a old road around the
      lake. Part of it is blocked off with thick metal cable. They strapped
      the cable around two trees. And yes it dug deeply into the tree, but
      the tree grew around thr cables. It's an amazing sight, but those two
      trees are still there and going strong.



      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "quiltpatti" <quiltbinder@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Bandon,
      > Just sharing a bad rope experience I had.
      > Don't just look at the bark for damage; make sure your trees still
      > have leaves on them. Way back in the dark ages of hammock camping,
      > before Spear or Hennessey hammock enlightenment and webbing tree
      > straps, I used to camp in those 8 oz. nylon twisted string WalMart
      > hammocks with it's 3/8th inch braided polypro suspension ropes,
      > clove hitched around the trees. I happened to later return to two of
      > the places that I hammocked, and to my horror the trees were dead!
      > If I remember, they were small hardwood trees, probably only 6-8
      > inches diam., and I don't remember the species. Tree straps seem to
      > be safe for the trees. Maybe sometimes ropes are, but how are you
      > going to know which rope, which knot, and which tree will be OK?
      > Patti
      >
      > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "kbwaddy" <kbwaddy@> wrote:
      > >
      > > tim, i was simply telling aris(i accidentally called him by his
      > last name) how to
      > > use that cord with the least risk of breaking it. i wasn't
      > thinking about the ethics
      > > i was implying. what is the general consensus on this issue? do
      > all camping
      > > hammocks come with tree straps nowadays? i've used my hammocks
      > with
      > > and without. your post got me to thinking though so i checked the
      > trees in my
      > > backyard, they've been getting alot of use. there are 3 trees back
      > there that i
      > > use. they are all hardwoods, but different kinds, i couldn't tell
      > you the species.
      > > anyhow, i've been using the non-tree strap setup back there for a
      > while now
      > > due to ease of use and simplicity. one tree does show bark damage,
      > but the
      > > other two show almost none. by none, i mean that there is a slight
      > dent in the
      > > bark where the line goes around the tree, there are identical
      > markings on the
      > > bark caused by a separate ridgeline i use to elevate my tarp
      > higher above the
      > > hammock. people have used tarps strung on a tightened line
      > between to
      > > trees for years, has there been talk of tree straps for this
      > purpose as well. i
      > > wouldn't think markings this slight would be of any concern to the
      > tree, as they
      > > are probably due to having line around them for days on end and
      > may not
      > > even occur after a single nights use. do you know if scratches or
      > dents in the
      > > bark hurt the trees? do they heal? i disagree with you though, i
      > don't think
      > > going strapless is garanteed to hurt the tree though, like i said
      > those dents are
      > > from the lines being up for days on end, and the one with actual
      > bark damage,
      > > i'm pretty sure, is from poor setup(the line sliding down the tree
      > a bit when first
      > > weighted, which can happen with tree straps too) when i was
      > experimenting
      > > with different methods of strapless setup. the way i do it now is
      > quite secure
      > > and nothing moves upon the first weighting of a newly rigged
      > hammock. i'm
      > > not trying to argue with you though, no one wants hammocking
      > banned from
      > > anywhere or trees damaged, i'm just not convinced going strapless
      > > necessairly does that....Brandon
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, tim garner <slowhike@>
      > wrote:
      > > >
      > > > dennis... your not telling aris to wrap the 2mm line dirrectly
      > around the tree...
      > > are you?
      > > > if so, that`s garenteed to cause tree damage that`s going
      > to be a "black
      > > eye" for the hammocking community. ...tim
      > > >
      > > > kbwaddy <kbwaddy@> wrote:
      > > > Dennis, i've used some spectra rated to 560 lbs. it seems it
      > was about
      > > 2mm, i
      > > > was unsure if it would be strong enough just like you so i
      > decided to try and
      > > > break it a few times. i was able to break it by bouncing in my
      > > > hammock.(medium to heavy bouncing, i weigh 160 lbs. ) it
      > obviously
      > > always
      > > > broke at a knot or a sharp bend. it seemed that it was more
      > likely to break at
      > > > the knott that was tied to the tree, so it seems that it is
      > best to wrap the tree a
      > > > couple of times(don't wrap the line and reverse direction like
      > you see in ed's
      > > > book, i broke it at that sharp bend as well.). wrap the tree a
      > couple of times
      > > all
      > > > in the same direction, this puts all the weight on the wraps,
      > then you can tie
      > > it
      > > > off however you like and it shouldn't be weakened any on that
      > end of the
      > > line,
      > > > but you still have to tie a knott to connect to the fabric. do
      > some research on
      > > > the strongest knotts: fig 8, triple fishermans slip knot etc.
      > also do some
      > > > research on hitches too, i read somewhere that the cow hitch is
      > rediculosly
      > > > strong(i've never seen one though and don't know if it would be
      > appropriate)
      > > > also a thing to remember is that spectra is way slick and
      > probably won't hold
      > > > (the knott will slide) most friction knotts which may include
      > all hitches ,
      > > > remember many knotts can weaken the the line by 50% so it is
      > important to
      > > > use a strong one. there was just a post about knotts yesterday.
      > also i've
      > > heard
      > > > of people doubling or tripleing the rope at the end where the
      > knott is tied,
      > > then
      > > > tying the knot in the doubled rope this makes the knott bigger,
      > and thus the
      > > > bends in it are not as sharp(sharp bends being what weakens the
      > rope. i
      > > > would say that you are using the skinniest spectra that could
      > possibly be
      > > > used. i used it for a while and it held up fine until i decided
      > to break it, so you
      > > > could probably use it if you were real careful. i know the
      > weight reduction is
      > > > insane, but i would probably go for the 3mm, which is still way
      > light, i'm sure
      > > > you could use the 2mm until you can find the 3mm, just be
      > careful. i have
      > > > decided against the single braid spectra for now, it's just so
      > slick and there
      > > is
      > > > no sheath to protect the line. i'm using yale crystaline 3mm,
      > broke the 2mm.
      > > > for uncovered spectra and high tech lines with sheaths check out
      > > apsltd.com(i
      > > > think) or search annapolis performance sailing. i'm still trying
      > to figure out
      > > > what the best choice for lines are. you can save alot of weight
      > by choosing a
      > > > light one, let me know what you decide on and how it works...
      > Brandon
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Aris Dennis <apfel1984@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Hi all,
      > > > > I picked up some 2mm spectra line today to try out as
      > > > > the hammock support ropes of my in-progress warm
      > > > > hammock. I wanted to get the 3mm (rated to 400kg) but
      > > > > they were out. This stuff is rated to 280kg. Will this
      > > > > be sufficient to use safely on the hammock?
      > > > >
      > > > > cheers,
      > > > > Aris
      > > > >
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      > > >
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    • Aris Dennis
      Hi Heather, If you decide to do a velcro pocket on the Hennessy, make sure you put darts in the fabric so it billows out. Also, you might want to contain the
      Message 43 of 43 , Jun 9, 2006
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        Hi Heather,

        If you decide to do a velcro pocket on the Hennessy,
        make sure you put darts in the fabric so it billows
        out. Also, you might want to contain the down in
        something if you want it to be removable. I was very
        careful and STILL got down everywhere. Finding bits of
        it in my clothes still.

        My pack is just made of some umproofed 2 oz ripstop
        nylon. I didn't see the point in ordering special
        waterproof material from America. All my commercial
        packs leak, so I though I'd just buy the $1 a metre
        stuff and have a very, very cheap pack. All my
        sleeping gear
        is in double layers of silnylon anyway.

        Let me know how you go with it.
        Aris

        --- fugglesrastus <fugglesrastus@...> wrote:

        > Hello
        > I just had a look at your hammock. It looks good to
        > me, I have a
        > similar problem with a cold back from compression of
        > the down of my
        > sleeping bag. So I may try an addition, like yours,
        > to my hennessey
        > hammock to help with insulation for winter camping.
        > Im thinking I
        > may sow in a nylon pocket to stuff some extra down
        > in, with a velcro
        > close area, then in the summer months can leave the
        > extra down at
        > home, when its hot.
        > Just wondering what sort/typ of material you made
        > your pack from, as
        > I am considering makeing my self a new pack due to
        > my old faithfull
        > is getting rather tired, and real light packs are
        > not readilly
        > available here in New Zealand.
        > Cheers Heather
        >
        >
        > --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, Aris Dennis
        > <apfel1984@...>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > My new warmhammock is finished!
        > > I followed Rick's instructions, and put 4 oz of
        > 900
        > > loft down in it. I now have around 3 inches+ of
        > loft
        > > under me.
        > >
        > > Thw whole thing, with 2mm spectra support ropes
        > and
        > > stuff sack weights 535 grams (19 oz).
        > > I'll be testing it in a couple of weeks around
        > > freezing.
        > >
        > > I also bought some silnylon and am going to make a
        > 5
        > > by 10 foot fly, ala Rick and Ray Garlington.
        > Wonder if
        > > this will be wide enough to protect the down
        > hammock
        > > from side blown rain?
        > > Aris
        > >
        > > (who's packweight is now getting so light he's
        > almost
        > > happy with it...)
        > >
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        >
        >
        >
        >
        >


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