5193RE: [Hammock Camping] Re: Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips
- Mar 30, 2004Ciyd,Great tips on the silnylon, especially on the corner reinforcements! I also use a wood burner, and it wors great. I have used small scraps of laminate flooring (the kind that snaps together to look like a wood floor). Turn the laminate upside down and the surface is perfect for this use. One of these days I may buy a piece of underlayment (masonite) 4' x 8' to work off of.Chet-----Original Message-----A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.
From: ciyd01 [mailto:ciyd@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 12:37 PM
Subject: [Hammock Camping] Re: Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips
> I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
> a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
> from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is
that it has to be plugged in. I found that using a large piece of
corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well.
The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying. Wood, like
plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well. The hotknife isn't
hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace. I
set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire.
I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting.
> It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
> the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
> 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
> Jardine's book).
I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon. I use a few,
very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
to the waterproofness of the finished item. You can also rub a
little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
sealing the finished item, if needed.
> The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
> reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
> I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
> sewing is done.
Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
regular ripstop. I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
circles of fabric. My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
diameter. I then mark the center of the circle of fabric. Now,
place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
reinforce. Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing. This
has 2 advantages: 1) the reinforcement is exactly the right size
and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
fabric unnecessary. Using a large circle of fabric should get you
several corner reinforcements.
My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
my pattern. Works great.
> Anyone have silnylon tips?
Finger tack. This means holding the fabric together with your
fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle. Gently pull
the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
pieces of fabric with your hands. This will help get both pieces of
fabric to feed evenly. Also, set your thread tension on scrap
fabric. If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
your tension using two scraps. The fabric tension on fabric this
thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
Hope this is useful.
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