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5192Re: Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips

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  • matthulbert
    Mar 30, 2004
      Thanks ciyd!

      The butane soldering iron was $20 at Radio Shack. A regular corded
      soldering iron is only $8!

      I cut my fabric on an 8' x 11" shelf from Home Depot. It's white
      painted/laminated. It's 3/4" fiberboard and was only $6. It was the
      cheapest piece I could find that was long. The paint melts a little
      bit when I hot-cut the fabric, but it works fine. It's nice having it
      be 8 feet long for things like hammocks. The 11" width might be a
      problem for clothes, but I'll worry about that when I get to it.

      --- In hammockcamping@yahoogroups.com, "ciyd01" <ciyd@a...> wrote:
      > A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.
      > > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
      > use
      > > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
      > > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
      > nice.
      > I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is
      > that it has to be plugged in. I found that using a large piece of
      > corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well.
      > The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
      > smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying. Wood, like
      > plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well. The hotknife isn't
      > hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
      > will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace. I
      > set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire.
      > I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting.
      > > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
      > do
      > > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
      > about
      > > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
      > > Jardine's book).
      > I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon. I use a few,
      > very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
      > to the waterproofness of the finished item. You can also rub a
      > little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
      > sealing the finished item, if needed.
      > > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
      > the
      > > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
      > work.
      > > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
      > > sewing is done.
      > Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
      > regular ripstop. I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
      > circles of fabric. My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
      > diameter. I then mark the center of the circle of fabric. Now,
      > place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
      > reinforce. Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
      > the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing. This
      > has 2 advantages: 1) the reinforcement is exactly the right size
      > and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
      > edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
      > fabric unnecessary. Using a large circle of fabric should get you
      > several corner reinforcements.
      > My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
      > the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
      > my pattern. Works great.
      > > Anyone have silnylon tips?
      > Finger tack. This means holding the fabric together with your
      > fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
      > and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle. Gently pull
      > the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
      > pieces of fabric with your hands. This will help get both pieces of
      > fabric to feed evenly. Also, set your thread tension on scrap
      > fabric. If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
      > your tension using two scraps. The fabric tension on fabric this
      > thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
      > sewn together.
      > Hope this is useful.
      > ciyd
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