5192Re: Just FInished a double bottom Hammock + Silnylon tips
- Mar 30, 2004Thanks ciyd!
The butane soldering iron was $20 at Radio Shack. A regular corded
soldering iron is only $8!
I cut my fabric on an 8' x 11" shelf from Home Depot. It's white
painted/laminated. It's 3/4" fiberboard and was only $6. It was the
cheapest piece I could find that was long. The paint melts a little
bit when I hot-cut the fabric, but it works fine. It's nice having it
be 8 feet long for things like hammocks. The 11" width might be a
problem for clothes, but I'll worry about that when I get to it.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "ciyd01" <ciyd@a...> wrote:
> A few tips that I foiund that might help you and others.
> > I bought a butane-powered soldering iron to cut the nylon (you can
> > a regular one, but the butane one is "cordless"). It's a 40 watt one
> > from Radio Shack. It's a perfect tool for cutting the nylong. Very
> I use a wood burning tool that I bought for $20. The drawback is
> that it has to be plugged in. I found that using a large piece of
> corrugated cardboard as the flat surface to do this on worked well.
> The nylon will sort of melt to the cardboard but the cardboard is
> smooth enough that the nylon peels off without fraying. Wood, like
> plywood, doesn't look like it would work as well. The hotknife isn't
> hot enough to set the cardboard on fire while you're cutting, but you
> will see scorch marks and the cardboard is easy enough to replace. I
> set the hot knife in an old pie tin so I don't set anything on fire.
> I use a metal ruler as a straight edge for cutting.
> > It looks like the silnylong is going to be significantly harder to
> > the edge seams. Does tape help hold it? I want to make the seam
> > 3/4" so I can reinforce the tie-outs with some webbing (a la Ray
> > Jardine's book).
> I have not found any tape that will stick to silnylon. I use a few,
> very few, pins within the seam allowance where pin holes won't matter
> to the waterproofness of the finished item. You can also rub a
> little clear bathtub caulk over any large pin holes when you're seam
> sealing the finished item, if needed.
> > The reinforced corners are making things harder, since I can't pin
> > reinforcements to the silnylong. It seems that masking tape may
> > I read that someone sewed through tape then removed it after the
> > sewing is done.
> Here's a really good tip for reinforced corners for both silnylon and
> regular ripstop. I have a "template" that I use to cut out large
> circles of fabric. My template happens to be a pie tin with an 8"
> diameter. I then mark the center of the circle of fabric. Now,
> place the circle of fabric under the corner you are trying to
> reinforce. Use the metal ruler and cut the reinforcement by running
> the hotknife along the edge of the corner you are reinforcing. This
> has 2 advantages: 1) the reinforcement is exactly the right size
> and angle for the corner you are reinforcing and 2) it melts the
> edges of the corner and reinforcement together making pinning of the
> fabric unnecessary. Using a large circle of fabric should get you
> several corner reinforcements.
> My underquilt has a lot of weird angles so I gave up on trying to cut
> the reinforcements from a pattern and use the actual fabric piece as
> my pattern. Works great.
> > Anyone have silnylon tips?
> Finger tack. This means holding the fabric together with your
> fingers while you sew (keep them digits out from under the needle!)
> and hold the fabric both in front and behind the needle. Gently pull
> the fabric while the feed dogs push the fabric and tension the two
> pieces of fabric with your hands. This will help get both pieces of
> fabric to feed evenly. Also, set your thread tension on scrap
> fabric. If you're going to sew two pieces of fabric together, set
> your tension using two scraps. The fabric tension on fabric this
> thin and slippery is very sensitive to total number of layers being
> sewn together.
> Hope this is useful.
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