2300RE: Hammock Camping Experiments -- long
- Aug 4, 2003
MessageWow Bear, sounds like the ideal campout--plenty of hammock experiments trying new ideas! BTY, that's the same state park that made me take down my hammock which was hung from the trees in the yard of one of the cabins last year--the ranger was very abrasive and rude, even threathing to kick us out of the cabin--he was most unhappy about a hammock tied to a tree in his park and would not listen to any reasoning! Sounds like you had better luck...Ed-----Original Message-----Gang:
From: David Chinell [mailto:dchinell@...]
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 5:13 PM
To: Hammockcamping@Yahoogroups. Com
Subject: Hammock Camping Experiments -- long
Rita and I were in Amacalola Falls State Park in Georgia
last week, cabin camping. I took along an HH Expedition and
my old Nomad Travel Tropical Hammock (plus a mosquito net
and an 8 x 8 silnylon tarp). I conducted some experiments in
the forest while we were there.
*** Pad experiment 1 ***
I cut a military sleeping pad in half to yield two 24 x 36
inch pads. I trimmed the corners of these, using a dinner
plate that was about 12 inches in diameter as a guide.
The idea was to assemble them into a T pattern once inside
the HH. One pad laid crosswise under my torso would thus
provide a 36-inch wide thermal barrier for my shoulders and
upper arms. The other pad laid lengthwise under my hips and
knees would be wide enough at 24 inches.
I did this because I wanted a really wide pad that would
roll up into the same profile as a narrow pad. It worked
well, too. Except that the military pad was too stiff for
use in a hammock. The curled up edges chaffed me, and the
wide pad held the sides of the HH out into the rain. The
softer blue pads would work better.
Even if you started with a shorter pad and made two pieces
that were only 30, 32, or 34 inches wide, it would still be
a good system, as the 36 inch width was probably too wide.
Having two separate pads made manouevering inside the HH
somewhat easier, but it's still a chore to get the pads
placed just right. But at least you can put your weight on
one pad while you adjust the other.
*** Pad experiment 2 ***
I cut and rounded two 30 x 40 inch pads from 1/4 foam that I
bought from Oware. It's like evazote, but may not be that
actual material. To make these roll up narrow, I folded them
in thirds, then rolled them up.
I used one of these pads in my Tropical Hammock, longways.
It was just too wide to go crossways. One pad placed between
the layers lengthwise ended up being comfy-cozy. (I fell
asleep and slept the whole night through.)
I expected my shoulders to be cold, but they weren't,
despite not being totally wrapped in the foam pad. I suspect
this is because the Tropical Hammock is much narrower than
the HH, so my shoulders weren't being pressed so hard by the
hammock material. I think one reason we get cold on the
bottom and sides is because the hammock compresses our own
body insulation (fat and stuff). Where there's less
compression, there's less cold.
*** Knot experiments ***
I tried a trucker's hitch to tighten the second end of the
HH. It worked wonderfully for getting good tension with no
damage to my fingers. The only downside was undoing the
twist and loop I created.
The hammock was easy to untie, but the twist and loop got
pulled really tight, and took some work to undo. This
wouldn't be a problem for most people, I guess, but I don't
like to leave any knots in my lines when I take my stuff
down. Maybe I just like the practice of redoing them every
So the second time I used the trucker's hitch, I used a
carabiner in place of the twist and loop. To do this I
passed four turns evenly around the bearing leg of the
caribiner then used the carabiner itself as the loop. To
lock the hitch, I wound three more twists with the part of
the rope I was pulling on, then the usual three half
*** Tree rope experiments ***
I have three hammocks that use casements and cords. To
attach these to trees, I most often use lengths of static
rope that I call "tree ropes." I just wrap them around the
tree and tie them with a reef knot. The knot doesn't really
have to be tight, because the friction of the rope does the
work. Then I pull out two or three loops from the middle and
attach the hammock cord to those (using a hammock knot or
slipped sheet bend).
I read (on this list) about using a friction anchor to
secure ropes or straps to a tree. (You just wrap the rope
around the tree and loosely secure the free end.) I liked
the idea, but wanted to combine it with Ed's wrap to center
the point at which the hammock gets tied to the tree (center
it on the trunk, that is).
So I tied a sheet bend in one end of my tree rope. Then I
wrapped the rope once around the tree, looped it over the
end, back around the tree, looped it over the end again,
then used up the rest of the rope wrapping in a single
direction. When I'd used up almost all the rope, I pulled
the sheet bend and cross-wraps away from the trunk and
tucked the free end of the rope down between the wraps and
the trunk. I tied the hammock line through the sheet bend.
That worked really well. I dreamed of putting a ring in the
end of the tree rope so the friction wouldn't keep wearing
it in one place, but that's overkill. The weight wouldn't
offset the need to sacrifice six inches of rope ever year.
What's neat about this method is that it lets you put the
attachment point in the same place every time, no matter the
diameter of the tree. It also gives you a natural location
for drip strings.
That's all I can remember.
(I dreamed up a self-centering, knotless hanging system, but
it's still a dream. If I make it work, I'll write it down.)
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