- Sep 5, 2006Hangers:
Here's part two of my weekend experiments.
Years ago, I started using the double-ring method in an attempt to get easy adjustment without untying and retying knots. Later, I decided to make the rings serve as drip rings as well, but I couldn't always put the rings in the same location every time with respect to my tarp (i.e. under it).
Still the method isn't too shabby, and I'm gratified that some of you are able to use it to good effect.
This weekend, I was experimenting with a way to keep the bitter end of the strap aligned so it wouldn't slide off to the side and let the webbing slip. I discovered a new system that's a mystery to me. I mean why it works is a mystery -- but it works. There are photos in my folder, Bear's Pix. They're titled "ring-and-toggle."
Here's a description. All the rings I used were 2-inch outside diameter, but I'm pretty sure any size will do. In fact, I did a couple of versions with an oval carabiner in place of a ring.
I use hammocks with casings in both ends. To start, I replaced the supplied hammock cord with a two-foot cord tied in a loop through the casing. To this I attach a ring using a lark's head hitch. This puts my hammock ring / drip ring at a constant distance of one foot from the hammock end, no matter how far apart the trees are.
My tree ropes for this experiment were two twenty-foot lengths of 1-inch polypropylene webbing. These have a loop tied in one end. I also attach a ring to this loop, using a lark's head hitch.
To hang the hammock, you start by attaching your tree ropes however you prefer. The tree ropes handle all the variations of tree diameter and separation. You just stop wrapping the tree when you have three or four feet (however much you need to reach the hammock and still have at least a foot of webbing to spare).
Pass the bitter end through the hammock ring and pull it back along the standing run. (The two sections of tree webbing are going to lie on top of each other in the end.)
When it's at the right spot, place a ring on top of the webbing, reach through and pull up a loop of the double-thickness of webbing (both the standing run and the bitter run). Insert a toggle through the loop, and let the webbing pull the toggle down onto the ring. Square and align everything.
I was just trying to improvise a ladder buckle to position the bitter end, but for fun I tested my weight on it. I was astonished to find that it held my weight with utterly no slippage (and no chance of misaligned webbing).
I suppose what I'm making with the ring and toggle is a form of ladder buckle, and that makes me wonder if a standard ladder buckle would do the same job.
In the pictures, you're looking at a three-inch length of 1/4-inch diameter aluminum rod. I started off using 3/8-inch doweling, and that worked fine too, though it put serious dents in the dowels where they rested on the ring. So I just cut up some metal rod I had handy.
The parts are troublesome to keep track of. I'd like to find a rod with a hole through it and tie it to the ring, so there's one less thing to juggle.
Toggle stick only - knotless knot
Loooong ago I discovered a way to tie my tropical hammock using no hardware, just a toggle stick. There's a diagram of that in my Bear's Pix folder too. It requires a long loop of webbing through the casing -- but that's how most tropical hammocks ship, anyway.
As the diagram shows, you need a separate tree rope or tree webbing. The bitter end of the loop from the hammock rope goes up through the tree rope, down along the standing run. When it's adjusted, you reach through the bitter end loop, pull up the two strands of the standing run, and insert a toggle under them. To keep the toggle from sliding up towards the tree, you throw a loop of the standing run over both sides of the toggle.
There. That's my weekend.
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