- I think that red clover, if my resources are correct will produce the most
nutrients. It also has a root that can penetrate up to 8 feet. One must
inoculate the seed to get the nitrogen fixation rate. I have used it for
several years as our cover crop and now it is everywhere. It also grows taller
than the white and works better at crowding out some weeds. Of course the
perennial weeds will not be affected by most any attempts at smothering with
Larry Haftl wrote:
> Hello Terry,
> The best website I found with seedball information is Jim Bones'
> www.seedballs.com. I think it might be worth your time to check it out.
> Have you thought of planting a green manure cover crop like white clover? I
> don't know if white clover is appropriate in your area, but from what I've
> gathered from Fukuoka's book "The Natural Way of Farming" it seems like the
> place to start. To quote from the book:
> "Yet, although cultivation without the use of chemical fertilizers is
> possible, crops cannot immediately be grown successfully without fertilizers
> on fields that are normally plowed and weeded. ...one must make an effort
> to return to that natural state which preceded the development of the
> methods of farming used by man."
> This passage, together with several other parts of the book, have led me to
> believe that the way to get the process going on my patch of dirt is to seed
> the whole place in white clover in the next week or two and to make and
> spread the seedballs in the next month or so. In an average year we get
> about 40 inches of rain. From what I've read it seems that the seedballs
> need at least 10 to 12 inches of rain to decompose and release the seeds
> properly. That should be no problem here, but it may be where you are at.
> Using the white clover cover crop is supposed to put nitrogen into the soil,
> loosen the soil, add organic matter, and suppress "weeds" by crowding them
> out and not giving them a chance to grow. It will be interesting to see to
> what extent this really happens.
> Hope this is of some use to you.
> Larry Haftl
> Journalist * Photographer * Videographer
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Castillo Gallery <castilloga@...>
> To: <email@example.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 6:10 AM
> Subject: [fukuoka_farming]
> > hi
> > this is my first involvement in an email group like this...thanks for your
> > time
> > 1. after 11 years of "jeavons" style modified gardening (i irrigate with
> > ditch systems called "acequias" here in new mexico) i want to expand and
> > work with the principles expounded by fukuoka
> > 2. i am at 7000 feet...semi-arid...old fertile pasture land adjoining a
> > river...huge cottonwoods to the south and east partially shading the
> > plot....about 1/3 acre i'm looking at working with for this project
> > 3. water source availability is variable...either a lot or a little or
> > 4. after 11 years fallow, i turned it over with a plow this summer
> > i would reseed it to regain its pasture value...funny how nature sent back
> > only the things i didn't want back! i listened to its message
> > 5. at the end of october i want to enact a natural principle; perrenials
> > annuals: vegetables, ornamentals, etc
> > 6. questions:
> > a. any recommendations on types of seeds to plant this time of year?
> > b. i am worried about spreading undesirables to neighbors land...any
> > thoughts?
> > c. are seedballs worth the effort this time around? i feel pressed for
> > to get some seed out there and i am not a full time gardener by any means
> > d. any tips for the uninitiated natural farmer?
> > thanks! i am curious to see how this email group works!
> > terry
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