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Compost

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  • Zack Domike
    A question on compost. I have built on a small site, and so lifted alot of sod. This is dense with roots of shrubs, and not composting very rapidly. I have
    Message 1 of 7 , May 16, 2002
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      A question on compost. I have built on a small site,
      and so lifted alot of sod. This is dense with roots
      of shrubs, and not composting very rapidly. I have
      the sod in piles elevated on stick "platforms."

      Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for in
      compost? What else could I use to layer with the
      root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?

      Thanks, Zachary

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    • RobinFern�ndez-Medina
      Hi Zachary I use beer and wheat straw mixed with some chicken manure. Just keep an eye on the temperature especially if in direct sun. This speeds things up
      Message 2 of 7 , May 17, 2002
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        Hi Zachary
        I use beer and wheat straw mixed with some chicken manure. Just keep an eye on the temperature especially if in direct sun. This speeds things up considerably.
        Regards,
        Robin
        Zack Domike <arcada888@...> wrote: A question on compost. I have built on a small site,
        and so lifted alot of sod. This is dense with roots
        of shrubs, and not composting very rapidly. I have
        the sod in piles elevated on stick "platforms."

        Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for in
        compost? What else could I use to layer with the
        root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?

        Thanks, Zachary

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      • Allan Balliett
        ... I always try to get at least one third high quality animal manure layered into my stacks. I would also work to get some finished compost to use to
        Message 3 of 7 , May 17, 2002
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          >Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for in
          >compost? What else could I use to layer with the
          >root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?

          I always try to get at least one third high quality animal manure
          layered into my stacks. I would also work to get some finished
          compost to use to innoculate the new pile, especially if you have
          doubts about it.

          -Allan
        • emilia
          i m utterly confused about what all this about making compost is doing in an ag. site in which if one has any understanding of what natural agriculture is all
          Message 4 of 7 , May 17, 2002
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            i'm utterly confused about what all this about making compost is doing in an
            ag. site in which if one has any understanding of what natural agriculture
            is all about is to free oneself from the hazzle of making compost!

            o.k. souscayrous, i'll be calling u to know how to get to ur place.

            thanks robert for all the good & pertinent info!
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "Allan Balliett" <igg@...>
            To: <fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:58 PM
            Subject: Re: [fukuoka_farming] Compost


            > >Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for in
            > >compost? What else could I use to layer with the
            > >root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?
            >
            > I always try to get at least one third high quality animal manure
            > layered into my stacks. I would also work to get some finished
            > compost to use to innoculate the new pile, especially if you have
            > doubts about it.
            >
            > -Allan
            >
            >
            > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
            > fukuoka_farming-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            >
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
          • Adam Henne
            I wouldn t worry about aiming for a pH level. You get the compost you get, and you can test it when s it s done breaking down, and amend it accordingly when
            Message 5 of 7 , May 17, 2002
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              I wouldn't worry about "aiming" for a pH level. You
              get the compost you get, and you can test it when's
              it's done breaking down, and amend it accordingly when
              adding it to your soil. You might want to just try
              breaking up large chunks, with a chipper or just a
              machete or something, and add nitrogen-rich raw
              materials like grass clippings or manure.
              adam
              --- Zack Domike <arcada888@...> wrote:
              > A question on compost. I have built on a small
              > site,
              > and so lifted alot of sod. This is dense with roots
              > of shrubs, and not composting very rapidly. I have
              > the sod in piles elevated on stick "platforms."
              >
              > Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for
              > in
              > compost? What else could I use to layer with the
              > root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?
              >
              > Thanks, Zachary
              >
              > __________________________________________________
              > Do You Yahoo!?
              > LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
              > http://launch.yahoo.com
              >


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            • RobinFern�ndez-Medina
              In Mollisons books I read that a healthy soil tends to hover around a few Ph points from Neutral. Natural action corrects Ph is what I understood. Do nothing
              Message 6 of 7 , May 18, 2002
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                In Mollisons books I read that a healthy soil tends to hover around a few Ph points from Neutral. Natural action corrects Ph is what I understood. Do nothing approach.
                Robin
                Allan Balliett <igg@...> wrote: >Any suggestions about the pH that I should aim for in
                >compost? What else could I use to layer with the
                >root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?

                I always try to get at least one third high quality animal manure
                layered into my stacks. I would also work to get some finished
                compost to use to innoculate the new pile, especially if you have
                doubts about it.

                -Allan

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              • souscayrous
                The intuitive appeal of compost is manifest: the organic movement has sought the perfect compost as its holy grail for almost a century now. I suppose the
                Message 7 of 7 , May 18, 2002
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                  The intuitive appeal of compost is manifest: the organic movement has sought
                  the perfect compost as its holy grail for almost a century now. I suppose
                  the first thing we must realise is that Natural Farming is not Organic
                  Farming. This is how Fukuoka puts it in The One-Straw Revolution (page 13 of
                  the pdf version found in this groups files section);


                  "The second is NO CHEMICAL FERTILIZER OR PREPARED COMPOST People interfere
                  with nature and, try as they may, they cannot heal the resulting wounds.
                  Their careless farming practices drain the soil of essential nutrients and
                  the result is yearly depletion of the land. If left to itself, the soil
                  maintains its fertility naturally, in accordance with the orderly cycle of
                  plant and animal life."

                  And, again, on the following page (14), he goes on to illustrates the
                  confused thinking of modern agricultural practices (a mind-set that organic
                  agriculture shares);


                  "I have been known, in chatting with soil fertility experts, to ask, "If a
                  field is left to itself, will the soil's fertility increase or will it
                  become depleted?” They usually pause and say something like, "Well, let's
                  see ... It'll become depleted. No, not when you remember that when rice is
                  grown for a long time in the same field without fertilizer, the harvest
                  settles at about 9 bushels (525 pounds) per quarter acre. The earth would
                  become neither enriched nor depleted."
                  These specialists are referring to a cultivated, flooded field; if nature
                  is left to itself, fertility increases. Organic remains of plants and
                  animals accumulate and are decomposed on the surface by bacteria and fungi.
                  With the movement of rainwater, the nutrients are taken deep into the soil
                  to become food for microorganisms, earthworms, and other small animals.
                  Plant roots reach to the lower soil strata and draw the nutrients back up to
                  the surface."


                  Simple alternatives to compost for soil improvement are cover crops, green
                  manures, and mulching with whatever you have to hand. Check out the archive
                  section of this group for some previous discussion concerning soil
                  improvement.
                  The essential difference would seem to be to not incorporate anything
                  directly into the soil but let it be drawn in by the action of earthworms,
                  rain, microbial breakdown etc: in other words to let the soil work on the
                  organic matter at its own natural rate, if not..."(such) practices drain the
                  soil of essential nutrients and the result is the yearly depletion of the
                  land."


                  Souscayrous...enjoying the bountiful rainfall of Spring


                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: Robin Fernández-Medina [mailto:flyingdebris1@...]
                  Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 6:25 PM
                  To: fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [fukuoka_farming] Compost



                  In Mollisons books I read that a healthy soil tends to hover around a few
                  Ph points from Neutral. Natural action corrects Ph is what I understood. Do
                  nothing approach.
                  Robin
                  Allan Balliett <igg@...> wrote: >Any suggestions about the pH that I
                  should aim for in
                  >compost? What else could I use to layer with the
                  >root-bound sod that will hasten bacterial action?

                  I always try to get at least one third high quality animal manure
                  layered into my stacks. I would also work to get some finished
                  compost to use to innoculate the new pile, especially if you have
                  doubts about it.

                  -Allan
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