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Re: [fukuoka_farming] Re: Potatoes okay, what about carrots?

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  • les landeck
    Hi Mike, I hope that nothing I have said on this site has been taken as a how to do it. What I want to present is how I do it so I may compare your thoughts
    Message 1 of 7 , Mar 2, 2005
      Hi Mike,

      I hope that nothing I have said on this site has been
      taken as a how to do it. What I want to present is how
      I do it so I may compare your thoughts and ideas to my
      experiences and learn from you also as you are trying
      to understand my needs. My way will not fit many
      places, this area only gets snow or below 25 degree
      temps maybe every 5 years started my California tan in

      I,m going to break down your questions, so read
      between your lines.

      --- Mike Gibbons <mikegbbns@...> wrote:

      > Thanks Les. Just a clarification though since I am
      > not sure I am
      > reading you right:
      > 1. Mulch with your recipe. (I have used something
      > very similar for my
      > tomatoes. Very good)

      With tomato or squash cuc's what ever of the more long
      term crops part the mulch for seed or transplants is
      what I do.

      The mulch is what it is provides food and habitat for
      life while maintaining moisture levels that life
      requires to be present.

      > 2. Seeds on top of mulch

      I do but I have used many different types and each I
      have to tweak a different way.

      > 3. Compost on seeds

      First time last year we were using a pure carbon as
      they say mulch of wood chip fines the most dense mulch
      i have come across, remind me not to do that again.

      But it was there and I wanted to learn.

      These wood fines were running the full 800 parts
      carbon count as in never do this, so I top off the
      seed with some good compost. would I do it again that
      way, well no but maybe.

      It's Grand when we can have fun.

      > 4. Leave for a while, thinning where necessary

      I (strong statement) don't thin the baby's, know mater
      how much seed i drop. I allow them to develop and
      start harvesting as a thinning method. I will attempt
      to go into that later if you are interested.

      5. Harvest like crazy

      It's always a bit that way as a market grower, but
      this way does add extra time. I'm after flavor not the
      perfect carrot appearance.
      > Maybe a question, please, closer related to my
      > exercise?
      > 1. I have a chicken coop on top of my garden for two
      > weeks. During
      > that time they are given mulch in the form of hay,
      > and grass, and
      > whatever, along with their food. They scratch around
      > for as while - at
      > the end of the two weeks I am ready to plant. All
      > the weeds have gone
      > and I have added a whole bunch of stuff that will
      > compost down and
      > provide nutrients.

      This is all good from my experience 15 years ago with
      chicken tractors. But I found the grasses would
      regenerate quite fast. you have added straw if this is
      giving you a light barrier that reduces the regrowth
      of the grasses for two to three weeks, so your young
      plants can get going than all is good. If not than you
      need to think what you need to do to tweak that.

      Maybe that after the chickens are moved you need to
      add more straw or a light layer of good compost free
      of seed of any type.

      This is do nothing farming. That means we need to
      think and work like hell to do nothing. OK with the Ha

      > 2. Do you think I can do the same with my carrot
      > seeds. On top and
      > covered with compost?

      In the right soil or compost with carrot seed or
      smaller I have been known not to cover any seed thats
      what the rain is for. Yes some say but the birds, I
      have lots of birds on the fields that I have built we
      always get along. Top seeding in good soil or mulch
      will greatly increase your germination if NOTE if you
      maintain your moisture the first four to seven days.
      If not its for the birds.

      Followed by waiting and
      > eating?

      Great time to be Thankful for

      > I am not too worried about the carrots growing into
      > the earth.

      I had a heavy soil system last year it was easier for
      them to grow up rather than down, thats all.

      > least I can see where they are and the disturbance
      > at harvest is
      > small.

      To me being concerned about disturbance is all thats
      important. And letting that go so we may exchange
      ideas as to what we are trying so that between us one
      of us sees a new understanding.

      With potatoes you've just got to dig the
      > whole garden (not any
      > more - of course)

      Life understands our need to learn, long as we put out
      the request for that knowledge and desire to learn
      thing I believe will be OK.

      I've done many all nighters over that one, we just
      have to try each day to understand that tiny bit more
      of how to respect all life.

      > Mike Gibbons
      > Auckland

      Hope you had fun, I did Les

      > --- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, les landeck
      > <offeringsoftheland@y...> wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > Hi Mike,
      > >
      > > Last April we planted three 4' by 80 beds
      > alternating
      > > every 4 paces carrots and mixed beet seed over
      > seed a
      > > bit. allowing 6" between rows across the beds this
      > > doubled our total seed row.
      > >
      > > As to your question, with undisturbed soil and
      > natural
      > > grasses we put down a thick layer of straw hiding
      > the
      > > grass than a little composted chicken manure mix
      > with
      > > rice hauls and a three to four inch layer of wood
      > chip
      > > fines marked our rows, seeded, and sprinkled a
      > very
      > > small amount of good compost just over the seed
      > rows.
      > > pulled over 100 pounds per week for five months
      > and
      > > are still harvesting for personal use might just
      > make
      > > it to April. we did go way over board on the seed
      > but
      > > that was OK soon as they started sizing up we were
      > > pulling an so thinning beets tend to swell on top
      > of
      > > the mulch easy to fined the big ones carrots about
      > the
      > > same best to plant a wide shouldered carrot if you
      > > over seed a bit they don't tend to twist up
      > together.
      > >
      > > Les
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- Mike Gibbons <mikegbbns@y...> wrote:
      > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Thanks to those who suggested I grow potatoes in
      > > > mulch to avoid
      > > > disturbing the earth. They seem to be coming
      > along
      > > > quite nicely now.
      > > > The proof will be in the picking.
      > > >
      > > > I am quite happy about transplanting seedlings
      > into
      > > > a mulched garden.
      > > > But there are some plants that I really must
      > grow
      > > > from seed. Carrots,
      > > > for example.
      > > >
      > > > If I have a heavily mulched garden ready for
      > > > carrots, how do I sow the
      > > > seeds? Surely not on top of the mulch? Under the
      > > > mulch would be too
      > > > deep. After all, isn't one of the reasons for
      > mulch
      > > > to stop weed
      > > > germination?
      > > >
      > > > Any ideas?
      > > >
      > > > Mike
      > > > Auckland
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > __________________________________
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