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Re: Seed balls and thick matted grass--Other ways to improve soil

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  • offeringsoftheland
    ... you is what do you want to do with the meadow? six years with no soil disruption is grand. also was a hard pan created by the horses and or other activity?
    Message 1 of 12 , Aug 31, 2003
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      --- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "Sharon Gordon"
      <gordonse@o...> wrote:
      > hi Sharon, my name is Les i'am new to this site. my question to
      you is what do you want to do with the meadow? six years with no
      soil disruption is grand. also was a hard pan created by the horses
      and or other activity? have you checked the meadow for worm or
      rodants, something that maybe tilling for you. do the grasses grow
      only knee high,or higher? i now question the use of manures when we
      might over do and create an imbalance on our fields,but a little bit
      of dry fines that you can spread litely would be interesting. maybe
      interducing some red worms to that six year old grass mat, along
      with a few night crawlers, increasing life activity on the meadow.
      the manure will increase your microbial population,just don't over
      do. next year maybe you can plant some pumkins in the meadow just
      for the worms. do well Les
      > I have just purchased some land here in Maine. For many years it
      has
      > been a meadow for growing hay for race horses. For the past 5-6
      > years no one has cut the grass and it has become VERY matted with
      > each year's snow crushing the grass and then the next year's grass
      > growing up between. My question is : If I throw seed balls out [ of
      > clover and alfalfa ] can I expect some type of growth or do I need
      to
      > cut and roto till the land first to get to the earth. With the many
      > yaers of cutting the soil is poor and very much clay.
      >
      > ***One thing you can do with land like this is grow daikon
      radishes and/or
      > the largest beets you can find. Then let the root rot into the
      soil. This
      > will put a lot of plant matter into the soil and also open a
      channel deeper
      > into the ground.
      >
      > ***You can also use dandelions(you might especially like some of
      the Italian
      > strains of seeds) to bring up nutrients from 3+ feet down. These
      are good
      > to eat and also have medicinal uses. But I don't know whether
      this would
      > create weed problems for you in terms of other things you would
      like to do
      > with the land.
      >
      > Sharon
      > gordonse@o...
    • Mark Thomas Nickum
      Consider burning. I don t know your surroundings, but fall is the time for burning. I went to undergraduate school at Knox College in Galesburg Illinois.
      Message 2 of 12 , Sep 1, 2003
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        Consider burning. I don't know your surroundings, but fall is the time
        for burning. I went to undergraduate school at Knox College in Galesburg
        Illinois. Our ecology professor spent 30+ years of his life restoring
        prairies. Every fall, we as students got a crew together, and followed
        him to burn the many nearby prairies he had replanted. Then you don't
        have to rototill, or worry about disturbing any progress that has been
        made. And the next year's grass, alfalfa, etc, should come through nice
        and strong without the heavy thatch layer.

        BEFORE YOU DO, research the species you have growing. Many should be
        perennials and will come right up with no harm in the spring.

        SAFETY!!! When burning, you must plan small backfires DOWNWIND before you
        light the major fire. Then when the main blaze follows the wind and burns
        your land, it will reach the designated cutoff point made by your
        backfire, have no more fuel, and will stop burning.

        See if there are some university people nearby who can help you with this.
        You need buckets, mops, water (for smothering backfire flames) and some
        sort of torch. Find people who know what they are doing, because it can
        be very dangerous. I don't know if you have been watching PBS lately, but
        they have had some stories about the forest fire fighters of past and
        present. Much good and much bad was shown, with a few disasterous
        results. The fire jumpers are quite brave and strong people.

        Best,
        -Mark Nickum

        On Sun, 31 Aug 2003, offeringsoftheland wrote:

        > --- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "Sharon Gordon"
        > <gordonse@o...> wrote:
        > > hi Sharon, my name is Les i'am new to this site. my question to
        > you is what do you want to do with the meadow? six years with no
        > soil disruption is grand. also was a hard pan created by the horses
        > and or other activity? have you checked the meadow for worm or
        > rodants, something that maybe tilling for you. do the grasses grow
        > only knee high,or higher? i now question the use of manures when we
        > might over do and create an imbalance on our fields,but a little bit
        > of dry fines that you can spread litely would be interesting. maybe
        > interducing some red worms to that six year old grass mat, along
        > with a few night crawlers, increasing life activity on the meadow.
        > the manure will increase your microbial population,just don't over
        > do. next year maybe you can plant some pumkins in the meadow just
        > for the worms. do well Les
        > > I have just purchased some land here in Maine. For many years it
        > has
        > > been a meadow for growing hay for race horses. For the past 5-6
        > > years no one has cut the grass and it has become VERY matted with
        > > each year's snow crushing the grass and then the next year's grass
        > > growing up between. My question is : If I throw seed balls out [ of
        > > clover and alfalfa ] can I expect some type of growth or do I need
        > to
        > > cut and roto till the land first to get to the earth. With the many
        > > yaers of cutting the soil is poor and very much clay.
        > >
        > > ***One thing you can do with land like this is grow daikon
        > radishes and/or
        > > the largest beets you can find. Then let the root rot into the
        > soil. This
        > > will put a lot of plant matter into the soil and also open a
        > channel deeper
        > > into the ground.
        > >
        > > ***You can also use dandelions(you might especially like some of
        > the Italian
        > > strains of seeds) to bring up nutrients from 3+ feet down. These
        > are good
        > > to eat and also have medicinal uses. But I don't know whether
        > this would
        > > create weed problems for you in terms of other things you would
        > like to do
        > > with the land.
        > >
        > > Sharon
        > > gordonse@o...
        >
        >
        >
        > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
        > fukuoka_farming-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
        >
        >
        >
        > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        >
        >
        >
      • les landeck
        Hi Mark, thank you for your interest. in my area we have to many homes in the half million plus value, the environment in regards to smoke is another
        Message 3 of 12 , Sep 1, 2003
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          Hi Mark, thank you for your interest. in my area we
          have to many homes in the half million plus value, the
          environment in regards to smoke is another
          problem.(California, is also banning the burning of
          rice straw.)i would like to find a source of
          organically grow rice straw. and for my fields needs
          every bit of growth was necessary in fiber form to
          protect the soil and build a habitat for the microbial
          world. with a well producing only fifteen gallons per
          minute it's a stretch to maintain three plus acres
          salad greens and root crops, we do not have any rain
          starting in May until late October and at times into
          December. i'm considering a move to Oregon, and i'm
          wighting the possibility of going to chicken tractors,
          maybe with some geese and ducks. thats another storie.
          i believe there is a place or maybe better a time to
          burn a field. maybe every ten or twenty years. i don't
          believe the Native Americans would burn the same field
          each year. but i may be wrong. i like to think about
          the book Secrete Life of Plants before i do anything
          to disrupt any life on the field.do i always chose the
          life affirming way? No. i have to make choices, i only
          can hope to find a way to make a better choice the
          next time. thats my storie Mark come back to me with
          more of yours. do well Les
          --- Mark Thomas Nickum <nickum@...> wrote:
          > Consider burning. I don't know your surroundings,
          > but fall is the time
          > for burning. I went to undergraduate school at Knox
          > College in Galesburg
          > Illinois. Our ecology professor spent 30+ years of
          > his life restoring
          > prairies. Every fall, we as students got a crew
          > together, and followed
          > him to burn the many nearby prairies he had
          > replanted. Then you don't
          > have to rototill, or worry about disturbing any
          > progress that has been
          > made. And the next year's grass, alfalfa, etc,
          > should come through nice
          > and strong without the heavy thatch layer.
          >
          > BEFORE YOU DO, research the species you have
          > growing. Many should be
          > perennials and will come right up with no harm in
          > the spring.
          >
          > SAFETY!!! When burning, you must plan small
          > backfires DOWNWIND before you
          > light the major fire. Then when the main blaze
          > follows the wind and burns
          > your land, it will reach the designated cutoff point
          > made by your
          > backfire, have no more fuel, and will stop burning.
          >
          > See if there are some university people nearby who
          > can help you with this.
          > You need buckets, mops, water (for smothering
          > backfire flames) and some
          > sort of torch. Find people who know what they are
          > doing, because it can
          > be very dangerous. I don't know if you have been
          > watching PBS lately, but
          > they have had some stories about the forest fire
          > fighters of past and
          > present. Much good and much bad was shown, with a
          > few disasterous
          > results. The fire jumpers are quite brave and
          > strong people.
          >
          > Best,
          > -Mark Nickum
          >
          > On Sun, 31 Aug 2003, offeringsoftheland wrote:
          >
          > > --- In fukuoka_farming@yahoogroups.com, "Sharon
          > Gordon"
          > > <gordonse@o...> wrote:
          > > > hi Sharon, my name is Les i'am new to this site.
          > my question to
          > > you is what do you want to do with the meadow? six
          > years with no
          > > soil disruption is grand. also was a hard pan
          > created by the horses
          > > and or other activity? have you checked the meadow
          > for worm or
          > > rodents, something that maybe tilling for you. do
          > the grasses grow
          > > only knee high,or higher? i now question the use
          > of manures when we
          > > might over do and create an imbalance on our
          > fields,but a little bit
          > > of dry fines that you can spread litely would be
          > interesting. maybe
          > > introducing some red worms to that six year old
          > grass mat, along
          > > with a few night crawlers, increasing life
          > activity on the meadow.
          > > the manure will increase your microbial
          > population,just don't over
          > > do. next year maybe you can plant some pumpkins in
          > the meadow just
          > > for the worms. do well Les
          > > > I have just purchased some land here in Maine.
          > For many years it
          > > has
          > > > been a meadow for growing hay for race horses.
          > For the past 5-6
          > > > years no one has cut the grass and it has become
          > VERY matted with
          > > > each year's snow crushing the grass and then the
          > next year's grass
          > > > growing up between. My question is : If I throw
          > seed balls out [ of
          > > > clover and alfalfa ] can I expect some type of
          > growth or do I need
          > > to
          > > > cut and roto till the land first to get to the
          > earth. With the many
          > > > years of cutting the soil is poor and very much
          > clay.
          > > >
          > > > ***One thing you can do with land like this is
          > grow daikon
          > > radishes and/or
          > > > the largest beets you can find. Then let the
          > root rot into the
          > > soil. This
          > > > will put a lot of plant matter into the soil and
          > also open a
          > > channel deeper
          > > > into the ground.
          > > >
          > > > ***You can also use dandelions(you might
          > especially like some of
          > > the Italian
          > > > strains of seeds) to bring up nutrients from 3+
          > feet down. These
          > > are good
          > > > to eat and also have medicinal uses. But I
          > don't know whether
          > > this would
          > > > create weed problems for you in terms of other
          > things you would
          > > like to do
          > > > with the land.
          > > >
          > > > Sharon
          > > > gordonse@o...
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          > > fukuoka_farming-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
          > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >


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