It is good to hear from someone who is successful using seedballs. Would you mind taking the time out to be a little didactic with us and tell us step by step exactly how you make the seedballs? Specifically, what sort of compost or innoculant do you put between the seeds and the clay? Do you put one species only in each seedball? How many seeds per ball? How important is timing? Do you wait for the rainy season or how do you schedule seedball dispersal? Do you dibble in the ground and put the seedball into the hole or just sow them freely on the surface? I think many of us could use such a "seedballs for idiots" primer.
Also, did you settle on using seedballs for erosion control after trying them for vegetable gardens or are you mainly interested in tree and shrub landscaping only?
Osage orange and honey locust are, indeed, wonderful "under-used" and undervalued trees.
Scott Robertson <rasterhead@...
> wrote:Greetings all,
Emilia did you recently try to contact me? I have a recent mail msg
from you that was unreadable.
I'm collecting tree seeds for my annual seed-ball dispersal project.
I've found the seed ball method to be the most efficient at helping
me to get trees planted for erosion control along some of our
(Oklahoma) highways where mowers on slopes have started the erosion
process, and other damaged areas. I like certain species for this
purpose including: Maclura pomifera (Osage Orange) - useful due to
its tough root system and general hardiness, Gleditsia triacanthus
(Honey Locust) and Cercis canadensis L. (Eastern Redbud) both useful
(to me) for their beauty and because they are rather hardy,leguminous
and do help a little to restore the soil and are both good providers
of food for wildlife.
By the way... the latter 2 seed varieties require
scarification/stratification for optimal germination.
p.s. the Honey Locust, once established, does serve to discourage the
mowers, being a kind of thorn tree from hell.
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