8478Re: [fukuoka_farming] Re: soil science part 3: microbes
- Dec 20, 2008A correction below.
At 13:38 2008-12-20, I wrote:
> >I still use mulching materials from our own meadows and hillsides toTypically, without the inclusion of soil and old compost, watering if
> >enrich the garden soil, but I think in a few years time I will be able
> >to stop that too. I used to make enormous amounts of compost;
> >windrows of almost 50 meters every year. Now I use most of it for
> >mulching. It is much more effective that way.
>I believe you know mulching very well, and NF
>fairly well (although you report problems using
>it in your location), but that you don't know
>heap composting too well. You don't describe your
>composting procedures so well, but I get the
>impression that you just ammass heaps with
>vegetable material. Typically, without the
>inclusion of soil and old compost, and preferably
>some manure, such heaps will get too airy and
>hot, and burn away lots of OM unneccesarily.
necessary, and covering with e g a layer of soil and a layer of
mulch, such heaps will get too airy and dry, and burn away lots of OM
unneccesarily. Addition of manure is beneficial, but without the
other measuers mentioned, will make the heaps hotter, and may burn
away even more OM and N and kill beneficial microorganisms. Aim at a
temperature around 37 C for the "compost animal".
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