6565Re: [fukuoka_farming] Hay is enough!
- Oct 11, 2007Dear Arjun,
Thanks for this information.
I have a copy of the "plenty for all" and have read it
some time back. It looks like, have to read it once
--- Arjun Rajgopal <parshini.kadavu@...> wrote:
>=== message truncated ===
> Dear Nandan,
> If you happen to read Plenty for all, by Shri
> Dabholkar, esp Chap 5 & 6, the explanation of white
> roots are given in detail.
> Nandan Palaparambil <p_k_nandanan@...> wrote:
> Please see the link
> http://www.prayogpariwar.net/pubs_middle.htm and go
> the slide show and slide number 45. Here it is
> "In a plant, the absorption of nutrients is carried
> out only by the active white roots. These grow only
> the top nine inches. The rest of the root structure
> primarily provides the support for the plant".
> Just wanted to validate this statement.
> --- Dieter Brand <diebrand@...> wrote:
> > Nandan,
> > I have no idea whether there are any commercial
> > farmers in
> > India using NF techniques and what kind of yield
> > they obtain.
> > Regarding the second part of your question. What
> > happened
> > in Fukuoka's case or in the case of the Norwegian
> > gardener I
> > quoted is that a new layer of organic matter was
> > added to the
> > soil surface every year, which adds up to a layer
> > of humus-rich
> > dark soil that becomes thicker and richer every
> > year. It will
> > take several years to obtain a layer of one or two
> > inches
> > because the volume of the mulch you apply will be
> > much reduced
> > after decomposition. If you start with very
> > depleted soil you may
> > want to apply one or two inches of compost covered
> > by mulch
> > as an initial soilbuilding means.
> > Roots, even those of annuals, go of course much
> > deeper than
> > that. I don't have any exact figures at hand, but
> > I seem to
> > remember that the roots of some annuals can go as
> > deep as
> > 6 feet or more. The layer of humus-rich dark soil
> > you are building
> > will never become as thick as that even after 30
> > years. But
> > that doesn't matter, because the newly created
> > topsoil will
> > protect and enrich the soil beneath and enable
> > roots to penetrate
> > deep into the subsoil to scavenge for minerals.
> > Dieter Brand
> > Portugal
> > Nandan Palaparambil <p_k_nandanan@...>
> > Dear Dieter,
> > Fukuoka-san used to get 22 bushels to 29 bushels
> > paddy from 0.25 acres which is 1760Kg to 2320Kg
> > acre. This is achieved just using straw mulching
> > crop rotation. Any one has information on the
> > using NF in Indian condition?
> > I read in www.prayogpariwar.net that the roots
> > looks for nutrition elements go upto 9 inches of
> > soil. That indicates till the mulching happens
> > this level we won't get the maximum productivity.
> > Would like to know your valuable inputs on this.
> > Regards,
> > Nandan
> > > Dear all,
> > >
> > > A little while ago somebody, I believe it was
> > > Nandan from
> > > India, asked about straw and whether it is
> > > sufficient for feeding
> > > the soil; some farmers had told him that straw
> > > doesnt contain
> > > any nutrients, whatever that is supposed to
> > > I think
> > > I answered in a general way about the importance
> > > of returning
> > > organic matter to the soil.
> > >
> > > Today - it was raining in Portugal - I sat
> > > devouring
> > > some of the treasures on my bookshelf, when I
> > > happened on
> > > some more specific information regarding this
> > > subject. Im
> > > reading Herwig Pommeresches Humussphaere
> > > is
> > > unfortunately not available in translation.
> > > Pommeresche
> > > is in the tradition of H.P. Rusch, cofounder of
> > > the bio-organic
> > > school which, like Fukuoka, stresses the
> > > importance of not
> > > disturbing the soil. Rusch considers that the
> > > aerobic and
> > > anaerobic layers of the soil should not be
> > > upside down
> > > as happens when a field is ploughed.
> > >
> > > Herwig Pommeresche claims that to feed the soil,
> > > or the
> > > edaphon part of it, it is better to return all
> > > organic waste
> > > directly to the soil surface rather than to
> > > compost it.
> > > He also states that straw is better than woody
> > > mulch
> > > and that green grass or hay is better than
> > > which has
> > > already passed some of its energy to the grain
> > > produced.
> > >
> > > He describes how he prepares his garden in
> > > for
> > > winter:
> > > - spread 20 litres of fresh organic matter
> > > (vegetable,
> > > fruit cuttings etc.) per 1 square meter,
> > > - sprinkle rock dust,
> > > - cover with 1 to 2 inches of wood chips,
> > > straw
> > > or hay.
> > > This provides food and protection for the soil
> > > during
> > > the winter months. When the snow melts in the
> > > spring,
> > > the garden is ready for planting and the soil
> > > biology
> > > kicks into action with vigour. He claims that he
> > > obtains 18 kg of onions per square meter with
> > > method, which compares to 1,5 kg obtained by his
> > > neighbour with conventional methods.
> > >
> > > I believe different strategies need to be used
> > > hot
> > > and dry climates. I have long wondered about
> > > of combining different types of green and woody
> > > mulches with compost. One method I have used
> > > consists of:
> > > - sowing a legume (clover etc.) in fall,
> > > - cutting the legume in spring,
> > > - broadcasting a mixture of seeds,
> > > - covering this by
> > > - a layer of compost
> > > - a layer of green mulch and, in the end,
> > > - a layer of woody mulch to protect the whole
> > > from
> > > drying out.
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