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6555Re: [fukuoka_farming] Hay is enough!

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  • Arjun Rajgopal
    Oct 9, 2007
    • 0 Attachment
      Dear Nandan,

      If you happen to read Plenty for all, by Shri Dabholkar, esp Chap 5 & 6, the explanation of white roots are given in detail.
      Best,

      Arjun

      Nandan Palaparambil <p_k_nandanan@...> wrote:
      Dieter,

      Please see the link
      http://www.prayogpariwar.net/pubs_middle.htm and go to
      the slide show and slide number 45. Here it is
      mentioned

      "In a plant, the absorption of nutrients is carried
      out only by the active white roots. These grow only in
      the top nine inches. The rest of the root structure
      primarily provides the support for the plant".

      Just wanted to validate this statement.

      Regards,
      Nandan

      --- Dieter Brand <diebrand@...> wrote:

      > Nandan,
      >
      > I have no idea whether there are any commercial
      > farmers in
      > India using NF techniques and what kind of yield
      > they obtain.
      >
      > Regarding the second part of your question. What
      > happened
      > in Fukuoka's case or in the case of the Norwegian
      > gardener I
      > quoted is that a new layer of organic matter was
      > added to the
      > soil surface every year, which adds up to a layer
      > of humus-rich
      > dark soil that becomes thicker and richer every
      > year. It will
      > take several years to obtain a layer of one or two
      > inches
      > because the volume of the mulch you apply will be
      > much reduced
      > after decomposition. If you start with very
      > depleted soil you may
      > want to apply one or two inches of compost covered
      > by mulch
      > as an initial soilbuilding means.
      >
      > Roots, even those of annuals, go of course much
      > deeper than
      > that. I don't have any exact figures at hand, but
      > I seem to
      > remember that the roots of some annuals can go as
      > deep as
      > 6 feet or more. The layer of humus-rich dark soil
      > you are building
      > will never become as thick as that even after 30
      > years. But
      > that doesn't matter, because the newly created
      > topsoil will
      > protect and enrich the soil beneath and enable
      > roots to penetrate
      > deep into the subsoil to scavenge for minerals.
      >
      > Dieter Brand
      > Portugal
      >
      > Nandan Palaparambil <p_k_nandanan@...> wrote:
      >
      > Dear Dieter,
      >
      > Fukuoka-san used to get 22 bushels to 29 bushels of
      > paddy from 0.25 acres which is 1760Kg to 2320Kg per
      > acre. This is achieved just using straw mulching and
      > crop rotation. Any one has information on the yield
      > using NF in Indian condition?
      >
      > I read in www.prayogpariwar.net that the roots which
      > looks for nutrition elements go upto 9 inches of
      > soil. That indicates till the mulching happens till
      > this level we won't get the maximum productivity.
      > Would like to know your valuable inputs on this.
      >
      > Regards,
      > Nandan
      >
      > > Dear all,
      > >
      > > A little while ago somebody, I believe it was
      > > Nandan from
      > > India, asked about straw and whether it is
      > > sufficient for feeding
      > > the soil; some farmers had told him that straw
      > > doesn’t contain
      > > any nutrients, whatever that is supposed to mean.
      > > I think
      > > I answered in a general way about the importance
      > > of returning
      > > organic matter to the soil.
      > >
      > > Today - it was raining in Portugal - I sat indoors
      > > devouring
      > > some of the treasures on my bookshelf, when I
      > > happened on
      > > some more specific information regarding this
      > > subject. I’m
      > > reading Herwig Pommeresche’s “Humussphaere” which
      > > is
      > > unfortunately not available in translation. Herwig
      > > Pommeresche
      > > is in the tradition of H.P. Rusch, cofounder of
      > > the bio-organic
      > > school which, like Fukuoka, stresses the
      > > importance of not
      > > disturbing the soil. Rusch considers that the
      > > aerobic and
      > > anaerobic layers of the soil should not be turned
      > > upside down
      > > as happens when a field is ploughed.
      > >
      > > Herwig Pommeresche claims that to feed the soil,
      > > or the
      > > edaphon part of it, it is better to return all
      > > organic “waste”
      > > directly to the soil surface rather than to first
      > > compost it.
      > > He also states that straw is better than woody
      > > mulch
      > > and that green grass or hay is better than straw,
      > > which has
      > > already passed some of its energy to the grain it
      > > produced.
      > >
      > > He describes how he prepares his garden in Norway
      > > for
      > > winter:
      > > - spread 20 litres of fresh organic matter
      > > (vegetable,
      > > fruit cuttings etc.) per 1 square meter,
      > > - sprinkle rock dust,
      > > - cover with 1 to 2 inches of wood chips, leaves,
      > > straw
      > > or hay.
      > > This provides food and protection for the soil
      > > during
      > > the winter months. When the snow melts in the
      > > spring,
      > > the garden is ready for planting and the soil
      > > biology
      > > kicks into action with vigour. He claims that he
      > > obtains 18 kg of onions per square meter with this
      > > method, which compares to 1,5 kg obtained by his
      > > neighbour with conventional methods.
      > >
      > > I believe different strategies need to be used for
      > > hot
      > > and dry climates. I have long wondered about ways
      > > of combining different types of green and woody
      > > mulches with compost. One method I have used
      > > consists of:
      > > - sowing a legume (clover etc.) in fall,
      > > - cutting the legume in spring,
      > > - broadcasting a mixture of seeds,
      > > - covering this by
      > > - a layer of compost
      > > - a layer of green mulch and, in the end,
      > > - a layer of woody mulch to protect the whole
      > > from
      > > drying out.
      > >
      > > Dieter Brand
      > > Portugal
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ---------------------------------
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      > > Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for
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      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
      > > removed]
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
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