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Re: Fellow Flapdoodle fans in Australia or NZ

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  • flapdoodle_dinghy
    Somewhere in the plans I recommend cutting wide from the line and using a sander to get the final dimensions. Mostly this was because the plywood was
    Message 1 of 8 , Nov 14, 2012
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      Somewhere in the plans I recommend cutting wide from the line and using a sander to get the final dimensions. Mostly this was because the plywood was splintering badly at times.

      On the Flapdoodle I, I made templates from 1/4" fir plywood. Really nasty splintering.

      Since then, I have learned a few tricks. Heavy, clear packing tape (sort of heavy duty Scotch tape) applied and pressed firmly onto the wood helps, but make sure when you remove it pull from the farthest (inside)edge of the tape rather than pulling from the ends or edges. Else it may splinter more than if you had never taped it in the first place causing you to emit a long string of four letter words.

      I have also used my fingertip to apply one of the following: shellac, spar varnish, slightly diluted white wood glue. However, if you plan the stain the wood, do that before the glue. I have not tried white "school glue" that is water soluble and trying to wash it off later, but it might work.

      Also avoid polyurethane glue such as Gorilla glue, because they foam upon setting, producing a monumental sanding job.

      The above tips also works to make cleaner drilled holes. Anyhow, it should help get more pieces from a sheet.

      Luan can produce really nasty splinters, and they almost always cause me a painful, long-lasting infection.

      Bill


      --- In flapdoodle_dinghy@yahoogroups.com, "netbuz10101" <netbuz10101@...> wrote:
      >
      > I was able to get from 2 sheets:
      > - 4 panels
      > - all the hinge reinforcing strips
      > - 2 keel strips
      > - 2 slightly thinner bottom reinforcing strips ( ran out of plywood)
      > - 4 end pieces that connect reinforcement strips (look like "U"s).
      >
      > I could have gotten full size bottom reinforcing strips if I had made smoother cuts in the beginning. I had also cut up leftover scrap pieces for paint testing, but would have been able to get all the "U" shaped end pieces.
      >
      > I was not able to make the gunrail/siderails from those 2 boards. I'm still painting, but I'm going to look into using molding for those. I could use some advice on what wood to look for.
      >
      > Because I ran out of wood for the "U" shaped end pieces, I bought a $6 dollar 1/4" Luan plywood board, but it does not match the thickness of my marine ply. I'm not sure how I'm going to sand my marine ply to taper thickness to match the end pieces. I need advice on that as well.
      >
      > Overall, if you can afford 3 boards, go for it! It will save headache and stress in the end. I also went with stitched hinges. It sounds stronger, and requires less shop tools to do. The fishing line I bought was $10 for a 100 feet.
      >
      > I have more pictures to upload of my build project, but haven't found the time yet.
      >
      > Thanks
      > -David
      >
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