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what's important in analysis of food?

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  • Ruthie
    OK, I m looking at all these different foods and my head is spinning, loll. What should I be looking for in the guaranteed analysis that makes one food better
    Message 1 of 1 , Dec 31, 2005
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      OK, I'm looking at all these different foods and my head is spinning, loll.
      What should I be looking for in the guaranteed analysis that makes one food
      better than another? I would imagine the crude protein and crude fat would
      be important, but is higher better than low or vise versa?

      Ruthie and the crew.

      A man who dares to waste an hour of time has not discovered the value of
      life. - Charles Darwin

      Visit www.ruthieville.com today for your daily dose of me.

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: <Savionna@...>
      To: <ruthieville@...>; <feline-heart@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 9:05 AM
      Subject: Re: [FH] food dilemma

      > Hi Ruthie,
      > In a message dated 12/31/05 1:39:37 AM, ruthieville@... writes:
      > << Anyhow, we pay about $10 for an 18 lb bag that lasts about 4 weeks. >>
      > I completely hear you that $$ is a consideration...and good on you that
      > you're interested in nutrition and that you're willing to devote some of
      > the income
      > to quality nutrition for the cats. Good job.
      > Here's the thing. Dry food is the cheapest of commercial products. There's
      > no
      > getting around that. But the *price* of the product is only part of the
      > *cost* of nutrition. It would be really economical if we humans ate, say,
      > sawdust.
      > But we would eventually starve to death, b/c the human body simply cannot
      > survive, let alone thrive, on sawdust. No different with cats. They have
      > nutritional needs, just as humans do. And dry food simply does not meet
      > those needs
      > without posing a great deal of risk. And if those risks materialize, as
      > they do
      > very commonly, the cost in cat suffering and vet bills far exceeds the
      > price of
      > food.
      > << In order to get 4 weeks fo food with say, Nature's Variety on Petfood
      > direct, we would be paying about $150 for the same 4 weeks of food. >>
      > Nature's Variety is often the most expensive product. So if that one is
      > not
      > affordable, there are other options. For example, Wellness mfrs 12.5 oz
      > cans,
      > which are more economical per case (on an oz-per-oz basis) than the 5.5 oz
      > or 3
      > oz cans...and the large size works well for multi-cat families. (Just a
      > note:
      > it's not a good idea to invest in a large amt of food until you are
      > certain
      > the cats will eat it. It's generally a good idea to get some smaller cans
      > during the transition.)
      > If Wellness is too high, you can check the prices of the foods that
      > contain
      > grains but still have relatively high-quality ingredients: PetGuard,
      > www.petguard.com; Felidae, www.canidae.com; Natural Balance,
      > www.naturalbalanceinc.com;
      > and Eagle Pack, www.eaglepack.com. If those are too high, there are other
      > products...but the nutrition quality starts to get compromised.
      > Also, some of the online sellers have discount programs...as do local
      > suppliers. Eg, we buy at a local feed store (for farm animals) that
      > discounts by the
      > case and also has a "bonus" plan for frequent buyers.
      > << I had looked at the info for wellness and how much to feed, which said
      > about 6 oz. per day for an 8-10 lb cat. >>
      > That's about right...but I generally don't pay attention to what mfrs say.
      > I
      > use the guideline recommended by the Natl Research Council and Merck Vet
      > Manual. Which is: the average adult cat needs 20-30 calories per lb of
      > ideal body
      > weight per day, adjusted for age, activity level, metabolism, health
      > status,
      > etc.
      > Most commercial cat foods are 30-35 cal/oz. There is a chart with calorie
      > counts here: www.sugarcats.net/sites/jmpeerson/canfood.html.
      > << we have 2 in the 8-10 range, one about 12-13, and one a little over 4
      > lbs.>>
      > So, per the guidelines: the 8 lb cat needs about 160-280. The 10 lb cat
      > needs
      > about 200-300. The 12-13 lber needs 240-455.
      > Is the 4 lber an adult or a kitten? Kittens have a diff. guideline by age,
      > which is listed here: www.maxshouse.com/feline_nutrition.htm.
      > Check the calorie counts of the products you're interested in...and you
      > can
      > figure out the *average* volume of food you'll need to feed from there.
      > (Again,
      > the NRC/Merck guidelines need to be adjusted per individual.)
      > << Now I know they do tend to eat less bulk of the canned food to their
      > dry
      > food, not sure why this is >>
      > The reason that cats need less volume of a higher-quality food than a
      > poor-quality one is b/c it is more nutrient dense. Much of the content of
      > poor-quality food simply cannot be used by the body, so it is excreted as
      > waste (which,
      > besides contributing to malnutrition, puts a strain on the kidneys and
      > gut).
      > << It's going to be a big adjustment for us >>
      > Yes, it is. And it's going to be an adjustment for the cats...so you know
      > to
      > transition them very slowly, to avoid digestive upset and taste fussiness.
      > But
      > you're making a big, very important step towards good health for
      > them...and I
      > hope you can feel really good about that. // Rosemary
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