what's important in analysis of food?
- OK, I'm looking at all these different foods and my head is spinning, loll.
What should I be looking for in the guaranteed analysis that makes one food
better than another? I would imagine the crude protein and crude fat would
be important, but is higher better than low or vise versa?
Ruthie and the crew.
A man who dares to waste an hour of time has not discovered the value of
life. - Charles Darwin
Visit www.ruthieville.com today for your daily dose of me.
----- Original Message -----
To: <ruthieville@...>; <email@example.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: [FH] food dilemma
> Hi Ruthie,
> In a message dated 12/31/05 1:39:37 AM, ruthieville@... writes:
> << Anyhow, we pay about $10 for an 18 lb bag that lasts about 4 weeks. >>
> I completely hear you that $$ is a consideration...and good on you that
> you're interested in nutrition and that you're willing to devote some of
> the income
> to quality nutrition for the cats. Good job.
> Here's the thing. Dry food is the cheapest of commercial products. There's
> getting around that. But the *price* of the product is only part of the
> *cost* of nutrition. It would be really economical if we humans ate, say,
> But we would eventually starve to death, b/c the human body simply cannot
> survive, let alone thrive, on sawdust. No different with cats. They have
> nutritional needs, just as humans do. And dry food simply does not meet
> those needs
> without posing a great deal of risk. And if those risks materialize, as
> they do
> very commonly, the cost in cat suffering and vet bills far exceeds the
> price of
> << In order to get 4 weeks fo food with say, Nature's Variety on Petfood
> direct, we would be paying about $150 for the same 4 weeks of food. >>
> Nature's Variety is often the most expensive product. So if that one is
> affordable, there are other options. For example, Wellness mfrs 12.5 oz
> which are more economical per case (on an oz-per-oz basis) than the 5.5 oz
> or 3
> oz cans...and the large size works well for multi-cat families. (Just a
> it's not a good idea to invest in a large amt of food until you are
> the cats will eat it. It's generally a good idea to get some smaller cans
> during the transition.)
> If Wellness is too high, you can check the prices of the foods that
> grains but still have relatively high-quality ingredients: PetGuard,
> www.petguard.com; Felidae, www.canidae.com; Natural Balance,
> and Eagle Pack, www.eaglepack.com. If those are too high, there are other
> products...but the nutrition quality starts to get compromised.
> Also, some of the online sellers have discount programs...as do local
> suppliers. Eg, we buy at a local feed store (for farm animals) that
> discounts by the
> case and also has a "bonus" plan for frequent buyers.
> << I had looked at the info for wellness and how much to feed, which said
> about 6 oz. per day for an 8-10 lb cat. >>
> That's about right...but I generally don't pay attention to what mfrs say.
> use the guideline recommended by the Natl Research Council and Merck Vet
> Manual. Which is: the average adult cat needs 20-30 calories per lb of
> ideal body
> weight per day, adjusted for age, activity level, metabolism, health
> Most commercial cat foods are 30-35 cal/oz. There is a chart with calorie
> counts here: www.sugarcats.net/sites/jmpeerson/canfood.html.
> << we have 2 in the 8-10 range, one about 12-13, and one a little over 4
> So, per the guidelines: the 8 lb cat needs about 160-280. The 10 lb cat
> about 200-300. The 12-13 lber needs 240-455.
> Is the 4 lber an adult or a kitten? Kittens have a diff. guideline by age,
> which is listed here: www.maxshouse.com/feline_nutrition.htm.
> Check the calorie counts of the products you're interested in...and you
> figure out the *average* volume of food you'll need to feed from there.
> the NRC/Merck guidelines need to be adjusted per individual.)
> << Now I know they do tend to eat less bulk of the canned food to their
> food, not sure why this is >>
> The reason that cats need less volume of a higher-quality food than a
> poor-quality one is b/c it is more nutrient dense. Much of the content of
> poor-quality food simply cannot be used by the body, so it is excreted as
> waste (which,
> besides contributing to malnutrition, puts a strain on the kidneys and
> << It's going to be a big adjustment for us >>
> Yes, it is. And it's going to be an adjustment for the cats...so you know
> transition them very slowly, to avoid digestive upset and taste fussiness.
> you're making a big, very important step towards good health for
> them...and I
> hope you can feel really good about that. // Rosemary