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EV Digest, Vol 56, Issue 43

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      Today's Topics:

      1. Re: SEM & regen (David Nelson)
      2. Re: SEM & regen (Richard)
      3. Re: SEM & regen (Richard)
      4. Re: SEM & regen (David Nelson)
      5. Re: EV Digest, Vol 56, Issue 42 (Ben Apollonio)
      6. Re: SEM & regen (David Dymaxion)
      7. Re: SEM & regen (David Nelson)
      8. Arizona may add cent tax per mile to EVs (Dennis Miles)
      9. Re: Arizona may add cent tax per mile to EVs (David Nelson)
      10. Re: Putting a J1772 nozzle on an old Avcon EVSE? (Jenn Rodriguez)
      11. EVLN: $22k Mitsubishi 'i' EV r:~75mi ts:~80mph c:7h@3kW
      112MPGe (brucedp)
      12. EVLN: 110 UK Mitsubishi EV centres in 2012 (brucedp5)
      13. Re: DC-DC Converter Switch... (brucedp5)


      ----------------------------------------------------------------------

      Message: 1
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 14:04:33 -0800
      From: David Nelson <gizmoev@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <CALxN3-hPG9tA7ZyURUEDzE59B9dGkUt_1qO6KtbQ0vn5=7xiyw@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

      On Saturday, February 18, 2012, Lee Hart wrote:

      >
      > So, I think his problem boils down to finding someone who has the
      > manuals and is familiar with programming this controller.
      >

      I have the manual, have programmed mine for two different regen modes (not
      at the same time), and can very likely help. If it is easiest I'm willing
      to help over the phone. Just let me know.


      --
      David D. Nelson
      http://evalbum.com/1328
      http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com
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      Message: 2
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 15:50:41 -0800 (PST)
      From: Richard <rjblinco@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <1329609041903-4400771.post@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

      Matt,

      Thanks for your reply. Yep, doesn't run properly without it. Did a bit more
      digging around and discovered that the field is required as apparently the
      controller uses it somehow to optimise the torque of the motor as well as
      regen stuff. Need to look at the options in programming the controller.

      --
      View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/SEM-regen-tp4399519p4400771.html
      Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.



      ------------------------------

      Message: 3
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:08:54 -0800 (PST)
      From: Richard <rjblinco@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <1329610134318-4400798.post@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

      Hi David,

      Regen is coming on automatically. Apart from the heat issue with the motor
      (which may or may not be solved by getting rid of the regen) the car is not
      very smooth to drive. Combination of regen coming on/off, delays in throttle
      coming back on, 'coasting' issues etc. Programming the PowerPak is probably
      the issue. I've got the calibrator device and the manual with all the
      parameters but unfortunately only a few of them are obvious to me what
      effect they have on the setup.

      I did work out that setting the Neutral Regen Current and the Footbrake
      Regen Current to 0 should disable it. Unfortunately, Neutral Regen Current
      (1.1.6 in the controller personalities) isn't available to turn off - this
      option is missing as you scroll through the settings in the calibrator(?),
      while Footbrake Regen Current (1.1.7) is available but doesn't seem to do
      anything - probably because I don't think the brake switch is connected to
      the controller. (might have to check this)

      So I imagine there are a whole bunch of parameters I could change to make
      the car more drivable but I think I need someone with a higher level on
      understanding to help out.

      Had a look at your blog and the blower you set up to cool the motor. Might
      have to resort to that as well.

      --
      View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/SEM-regen-tp4399519p4400798.html
      Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.



      ------------------------------

      Message: 4
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:56:01 -0800
      From: David Nelson <gizmoev@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <CALxN3-ish=THLghKZ-5=CUTOoLWyTqSpYzotMtUZzqw2K0kKag@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

      Is your controller set for Speed control or Torque control? It should
      be set for torque. Setting 1.6.11.

      I've found that depending on the 1.6.2 Digital I/O Configuration
      setting features are added or removed along with changing what some of
      the pins on connector B actually do and expect. I'll PM you a document
      I created on another controller I was trying to figure out for someone
      to give you a place to start on documenting the settings in your
      controller.

      On Sat, Feb 18, 2012 at 4:08 PM, Richard <rjblinco@...> wrote:
      > Hi David,
      >
      > Regen is coming on automatically. Apart from the heat issue with the motor
      > (which may or may not be solved by getting rid of the regen) the car is not
      > very smooth to drive. Combination of regen coming on/off, delays in throttle
      > coming back on, 'coasting' issues etc. Programming the PowerPak is probably
      > the issue. I've got the calibrator device and the manual with all the
      > parameters but unfortunately only a few of them are obvious to me what
      > effect they have on the setup.
      >
      > I did work out that setting the Neutral Regen Current and the Footbrake
      > Regen Current to 0 should disable it. Unfortunately, Neutral Regen Current
      > (1.1.6 in the controller personalities) isn't available to turn off - this
      > option is missing as you scroll through the settings in the calibrator(?),
      > while Footbrake Regen Current (1.1.7) is available but doesn't seem to do
      > anything - probably because I don't think the brake switch is connected to
      > the controller. (might have to check this)


      --
      David D. Nelson
      http://evalbum.com/1328
      http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com



      ------------------------------

      Message: 5
      Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 00:08:51 -0500
      From: Ben Apollonio <ev@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 56, Issue 42
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <C343DA16-95D9-4206-8997-2D30B0D3EDAC@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

      Thanks, David!

      Bob was a man whose presence and character (and inventive language!) is and will be sorely missed here on the EVDL

      -Ben


      On Feb 18, 2012, at 3:00 PM, ev-request@... wrote:

      > From: "EVDL Administrator" <evpost@...>
      > Date: February 18, 2012 4:03:20 AM EST
      > To: ev@...
      > Subject: [EVDL] Tribute to Bob Rice
      > Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      >
      >
      > Phil Galati recently obtained a copy of a tribute to our friend and longtime
      > EVDL contributor Bob Rice. It was written by his son Chuck for the
      > newsletter of the Shore Line Trolley Museum, the Branford Electric Railway
      > Journal. Bob was active with the museum for many years.
      >
      > Phil sent the article to the EVDL, but our server tripped over its 6+mb
      > scanned size. I was able to snag it before it vanished, and reformat it
      > into a more managable size (~148kb). The museum has kindly given me
      > permission to republish it at evdl.org.
      >
      > If you knew Bob, or if you remember his colorful EVDL posts and infinite
      > help for EVers of all levels, you should read Chuck's touching and
      > thoughtful tribute. You'll find it here :
      >
      > http://www.evdl.org/docs/bobrice_berj.pdf
      >
      > It's in the EV History section of the EVDL library :
      >
      > http://www.evdl.org/lib/index.html#ihist
      >
      > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
      > EVDL Administrator
      >
      > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
      > EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
      > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
      > Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not
      > reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my
      > email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
      > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =




      ------------------------------

      Message: 6
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 22:34:58 -0800 (PST)
      From: David Dymaxion <david_dymaxion@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <1329633298.48660.YahooMailNeo@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

      On my Kostov sepex motor, I found the heat was more a function of RPM than field current. I also found out the internal fan is way more powerful than the popular electric squirrel cage blowers. I also found out my Kelly powers the field full time, even with 0 pedal -- motor stopped + field going = high field temps.

      A blower will help some. Another idea is to idle the motor so the internal fan helps.

      The newer Kostovs blow air in through the end of the motor, I wonder is this might work better than from the side.

      Keep that field connected! You risk overspeeding the motor and/or major arcy sparky comm and brush destroying events.



      ________________________________
      From: Richard <rjblinco@...>
      To: ev@...
      Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 5:08 PM
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen

      Hi David,

      Regen is coming on automatically. Apart from the heat issue with the motor
      (which may or may not be solved by getting rid of the regen) the car is not
      very smooth to drive. Combination of regen coming on/off, delays in throttle
      coming back on, 'coasting' issues etc. Programming the PowerPak is probably
      the issue. I've got the calibrator device and the manual with all the
      parameters but unfortunately only a few of them are obvious to me what
      effect they have on the setup.

      I did work out that setting the Neutral Regen Current and the Footbrake
      Regen Current to 0 should disable it. Unfortunately, Neutral Regen Current
      (1.1.6 in the controller personalities) isn't available to turn off - this
      option is missing as you scroll through the settings in the calibrator(?),
      while Footbrake Regen Current (1.1.7) is available but doesn't seem to do
      anything - probably because I don't think the brake switch is connected to
      the controller. (might have to check this)

      So I imagine there are a whole bunch of parameters I could change to make
      the car more drivable but I think I need someone with a higher level on
      understanding to help out.

      Had a look at your blog and the blower you set up to cool the motor. Might
      have to resort to that as well.

      --
      View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/SEM-regen-tp4399519p4400798.html
      Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

      _______________________________________________
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      ------------------------------

      Message: 7
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 22:54:32 -0800
      From: David Nelson <gizmoev@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] SEM & regen
      To: David Dymaxion <david_dymaxion@...>, Electric Vehicle
      Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <CALxN3-hOcHj7wWbCrpFhQE5jxh8Bb=MnVEAphaUCLWqFvjA7hw@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

      On Sat, Feb 18, 2012 at 10:34 PM, David Dymaxion
      <david_dymaxion@...> wrote:
      > I also found out my Kelly powers the field full time, even with 0 pedal -- motor stopped + field going = high field temps.
      >

      I found that the Sevcon does the same thing by watching my
      CycleAnalyst. When I put my brake on a circuit switches the motor into
      "wait for regen command" mode and seems to shut the field off. I see
      the same drop in current when I switch into neutral.

      > A blower will help some. Another idea is to idle the motor so the internal fan helps.

      With my D&D motor (an ES 10C) the blower I installed pushes about the
      same amount of air out the DE of the motor as the internal fan does
      when the motor is at 3500rpm. It sounds like your Kostov might have a
      better fan than the D&D.

      --
      David D. Nelson
      http://evalbum.com/1328
      http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com



      ------------------------------

      Message: 8
      Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 01:58:20 -0500
      From: Dennis Miles <evti@...>
      Subject: [EVDL] Arizona may add cent tax per mile to EVs
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <CAHvDwhJSwUzYu8jhf2wZ_BXYZp2d2Ew=hiZBYuNcwT46s0XnfA@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

      They are trying to do it some more ! a bill in Arizona would charge each EV
      or hybrid owner a cent extra per mile for road maintenance. What does it
      feel like Arizona EV or Hybrid owners to be discriminated against and asked
      to pay extra to fix everybody's roads?

      Politics is everybodys agruement so if you want to discuss this with me and
      read my 1400 word essay suitable for mailing to your elected officials
      please contact me off list. Sorry if taxing our cars extra is not "ON
      TOPIC" (I am NOT asking for your money !)
      I'll just sign this;
      Regards,
      *Dennis Lee Miles*
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      Message: 9
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 23:04:55 -0800
      From: David Nelson <gizmoev@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] Arizona may add cent tax per mile to EVs
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <CALxN3-hvZK9tzy+yie7mg4JUYjSZYL4KqOf5Zeuca9oBbC0qCw@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

      Just like Washington state house passed the $100 ev tax again! Let
      more of them get on the road first!

      On Sat, Feb 18, 2012 at 10:58 PM, Dennis Miles <evti@...> wrote:
      > They are trying to do it some more ! a bill in Arizona would charge each EV
      > or hybrid owner a cent extra per mile for road maintenance. ?What does it
      > feel like Arizona EV or Hybrid owners to be discriminated against and asked
      > to pay extra to fix everybody's roads?
      >
      > Politics is everybodys agruement so if you want to discuss this with me and
      > read my 1400 word essay suitable for mailing to your elected officials
      > please contact me off list. Sorry if taxing our cars extra is not "ON
      > TOPIC" (I am NOT asking for your money !)
      > I'll just sign this;
      > Regards,
      > *Dennis Lee Miles*



      --
      David D. Nelson
      http://evalbum.com/1328
      http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com



      ------------------------------

      Message: 10
      Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 23:43:12 -0800
      From: Jenn Rodriguez <jennrod12@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] Putting a J1772 nozzle on an old Avcon EVSE?
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID:
      <CAN7Qza0QbMqh4MCvp4AB_Jn1R30PbFF6L-pmnBs8M+gA6rGNaw@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

      Thanks, Bruce,

      For clarification, we have a portablized Avcon Power Pak that we plug into
      our dryer outlet in the garage. We'd like the newer J1772 end to charge
      our new Mitsubishi iMiEV at level 2 at home. (We would rarely/maybe never
      actually take it on the road with us.)

      Since we already have about $400 in sunk costs in the Avcon, it would be
      great to upgrade it rather than buying a whole new unit for $800+. Sounds
      like it's possible, from the thread you linked to and a couple of replies
      I've gotten.

      Jenn
      Santa Clara, CA

      Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 15:00:38 -0800
      From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <brucedp5@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] Putting a J1772 nozzle on an old Avcon EVSE?
      To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@...>
      Message-ID:
      <1329519638.8446.140661038017693@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

      This has been discussed before and is on the evdl archives.
      Here is one of the links
      http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Avcom-EV-adapter-for-Chevy-Volt-td3672519.html

      There is an evdl member that sells the components and gives the info on
      how to do, they should have made contact with you offline by now.

      I do not know of anyone locally in the SF Bay area that would do the
      work
      for you, but it can be done, it is do able. It will take some measuring,
      cutting, crimping, and soldering.


      There is however an alternative, buy a low cost J1772 EVSE:
      http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Low-Cost-EVSE-td3835375.html
      Depending on what you are charging, if 3kW is all you need, the:

      Modified Nissan level 1+ upgrade (15A rev2) ~$840 (Source: 20A @240VAC
      3.3kW)
      (with exchange of original unmodified Nissan level1 EVSE, price drops to
      ~$290)
      (can be used for either level 1 or 2 charging - this EVSE is mainly for
      Leaf EV use)
      http://evseupgrade.com/

      is quite popular with the Leaf EV crowd but has been used with other
      Production
      EVs/pih.

      Perhaps you could state what you plan to use it for and where it will be
      used
      (on the road, in the garage, outdoors. etc.)?


      {brucedp.150m.com}



      -
      On Fri, Feb 17, 2012, at 02:15 PM, Jenn Rodriguez wrote:
      > We have an old, basic Avcon EVSE that we used to charge the Th!nk City we
      > rented for 9 months in 2002-2003.
      >
      > Is there someone out there that can change the paddle-like nozzle for the
      > new standard round J1772 nozzle for us? We're happy to pay to have it
      > done. Even better if it's someone in the SF Bay area so maybe we
      > wouldn't
      > have to ship it.
      >
      > Thanks for any referrals,
      >
      > Jenn
      > Santa Clara, CA
      > jennrod12@...
      -
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      ------------------------------

      Message: 11
      Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 02:37:12 -0800 (PST)
      From: brucedp <brucedp@...>
      Subject: [EVDL] EVLN: $22k Mitsubishi 'i' EV r:~75mi ts:~80mph
      c:7h@3kW 112MPGe
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <1329647832945-4401437.post@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8


      Lower EV cost: smaller pack = less range, less-frills interior,
      not-for-tall-drivers

      http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/consumer&id=8549481
      [image&video] Mitsubishi 'i' is electric car for budget-conscious
      drivers by Dave Kunz Feb 18 2012

      [video] flash
      LOS ANGELES (KABC) -- Electric cars are upon us, but if you've
      looked into them you might have gotten a little sticker shock. But
      the rising cost of gas, now may be the perfect time to look for an
      electric vehicle.

      The Nissan Leaf [EV] runs about $35,000 to start. The Chevrolet Volt
      [plug-in series hybrid], with its battery-power plus onboard
      generator, has a base price of about $40,000. It's the same with
      Ford's new battery-powered Focus [EV].

      But even with the current $7,500 federal tax credit, it's hard to
      get any of these for under $30,000.

      But there one new electric car is more affordable- Mitsubishi's
      plug-in simply called the "i." It has a base price of just over
      29,000, and with the tax credit factored in it's under $22,000.

      It might look a little funny, but it is a real car. It can drive
      anywhere- even the freeway- although anywhere takes on a different
      meaning when a car relies on battery power.

      Range is rated at 62 miles, but that can vary significantly
      depending on how you drive and whether you use the air conditioner
      or heater.

      As a commuter, the "i" should work fine. However keep in mind though
      that the low price gets you a small and somewhat down-scale car.

      The plastics are pretty low-grade, and even moderately tall drivers
      will find that the seat doesn't go back nearly far enough. It's also
      rather narrow, so you'll be cozy with your front passenger. And
      don't look for a center armrest, because there isn't room for one.

      Mitsubishi and the government estimate it will cost you about
      $550-worth of electricity to drive the car for a year. And it comes
      with a charger that you can plug into your standard household outlet-
      but with that voltage it would take 22 hours to charge a completely
      drained battery.

      The solution is to install a quicker charger that runs on 240 volts,
      but it'll cost you $1,000 or more to install at your home. However,
      many utilities offer rebates to cover part or all of the cost.

      Electric cars are here, and are generally expensive to buy.
      Mitsubishi's bargain-priced offering isn't perfect, but it is a real
      car that runs without gas. You'll just have to put up with something
      that isn't very big, attractive, or luxurious.
      [?2012 KABC-TV/DT All Rights Reserved]


      http://www.caranddriver.com/news/mitsubishi-i-miev-news-2012-mitsubishi-i-miev-us-spec-info
      [images] 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV U.S.-Spec Photos and Info
      Mitsubishi grows the i-MiEV to fit American tastes, waistlines, and
      regulations. BY JAKE HOLMES Nov 2010

      Mitsubishi will use the L.A. auto show to unveil a U.S.-market
      version of its petite i-MiEV electric car. The i-MiEV has been on
      sale in Japan since 2009, and will bow in several European countries
      this December.

      The U.S. i-MiEV?s body has been enlarged, and both the front and rear
      bumpers have been redesigned for compliance with our crash-test
      regulations. As a result, the car is 11.2 inches longer and 4.3
      inches wider than the Japanese-spec model, offering more interior
      space?although at just 144.9 inches by 62.4, it still casts a smaller
      shadow than the Toyota Yaris hatchback. U.S.-spec cars also will
      receive different interior fabrics and option packages than European
      or Asian models, but no specifics on those things has been released.

      The car?s mechanicals are unchanged from the Japanese model?s. Thus,
      the powertrain still combines a 63-hp electric motor with a 16-kWh
      lithium-ion battery. Mitsubishi claims a top speed of 81 mph and a
      driving range of 45 to 75 miles on one charge, which is in line with
      our real-world experience after driving a prototype in L.A.. A full
      charge on a 110-volt household circuit takes about 12 hours.

      The i-MiEV is set to go on sale here in late 2011, by which time
      competitors such as the Chevrolet Volt and Nissan Leaf will already
      be in consumers? driveways. Before factoring in various state and
      federal tax incentives for electric-vehicle purchases, Mitsubishi is
      aiming for a price tag of around $30,000, just below that of the
      Leaf. At that price, the i-MiEV may be a tough sell, as the Nissan
      is a good deal larger and feels more substantial and more like a
      real car.

      View Photo Gallery [
      http://www.caranddriver.com/photo-gallery/mitsubishi-i-miev-news-2012-mitsubishi-i-miev-us-spec-info
      ] [?2012 Hearst Communications All Rights Reserved]


      http://i.mitsubishicars.com/miev/charging
      ... 120V/8A ... 15-Amp outlet ... ~22.5 hours to 100%
      ... 240V/15A 7 hours to 100%
      ... Level-3 .5 hours to 80%





      http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-UK-s-answer-to-the-Tesla-S-and-Fisker-Karma-td4397041.html

      {brucedp.150m.com}

      --
      View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-22k-Mitsubishi-i-EV-r-75mi-ts-80mph-c-7h-3kW-112MPGe-tp4401437p4401437.html
      Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.



      ------------------------------

      Message: 12
      Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 02:39:43 -0800 (PST)
      From: brucedp5 <brucedp5@...>
      Subject: [EVDL] EVLN: 110 UK Mitsubishi EV centres in 2012
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <1329647983118-4401440.post@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8


      Largest Mitsubishi EV dealer network planned

      http://www.am-online.com/news/2012/2/14/mitsubishi-largest-ev-dealer-network-planned/30500/
      [image] Mitsubishi: Largest EV dealer network planned
      by Tom Seymour 14/02/2012

      Mitsubishi?s 110 UK dealers will all become electric vehicle (EV)
      centres before the end of this year.

      The approved dealerships will have two EV sales personnel as well as
      aftersales technicians.

      This means the entire network will be prepared to sell the i-Miev and
      Mitsubishi?s first plug-in hybrid which will arrive in the UK within
      the next 18 months.

      Lance Bradley, Mitsubishi Motors UK?s managing director, reiterated
      Mitsubishi?s intentions to continue to promote and establish the EV
      and plug-in hybrid technology in the UK market place.

      He said: ?Staff will undertake an extensive training programme so
      that there is a very clear understanding of the demands and
      requirements of electric vehicles for consumers, as well as an
      awareness of the wider industry issues relating to the EV marketplace.

      ?Their aftersales departments will comply with compulsory
      manufacturer training and require spe-cialist tools to enable their
      service and maintenance.?

      All Mitsubishi EV centres will have i-Miev demonstrator vehicles that
      will be available for customers to properly test and experience over
      a prolonged period so they can discover for themselves what it is
      like to drive and ?own? an electric vehicle in real-life conditions.

      This will make Mitsubishi the largest EV dealer network in the UK
      providing sales and aftersales coverage.

      Mitsubishi?s announcement follows Renault?s confirmation that 21 of
      its dealers will be electric vehicle specialists. All 135 will sell
      EVs in 2013.

      The French brand is installing medium speed chargers for customers
      to use free at the EV sites.

      Mitsubishi said its customers are welcome to charge cars at
      dealerships using three-pin domestic-speed charging facilities, but
      it has no plans to install fast charging points.

      Mitsubishi will also launch an approved used car programme that will
      go live on February 1.

      The Mitsubishi Approved Used Car Programme will offer a 30-day
      vehicle exchange, a 12-month vehicle warranty, a multi-point vehicle
      check, a vehicle history check and drive away insurance.

      The Japanese brand said the new programme will provide its network
      of dealers with the opportunity to increase used car sales volumes
      and profitability.

      Bradley said: ?In a tough economic climate, good quality, reliable
      used cars are important to both dealers and customers alike.?

      Bradley believes the used car programme will give customers peace
      of mind and it will help to guarantee used car retail stan-dards in
      Mitsubishi showrooms across the UK.

      Mitsubishi will be launching a revamped stock locator via its main
      consumer website with the added bonus of mobile and Face book
      functionality. [? 2012 Bauer Automotive]






      {brucedp.150m.com}

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      ------------------------------

      Message: 13
      Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 11:45:25 -0800 (PST)
      From: brucedp5 <brucedp5@...>
      Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC-DC Converter Switch...
      To: ev@...
      Message-ID: <1329680725627-4402306.post@...>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

      Ref
      http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/DC-DC-Converter-Switch-td4402229.html


      First, John neither of your two posts went through to the evdl, they
      are sitting on the nabble archive. You need to get subscribed to the
      evdl properly for members to read your questions/posts. The way it is
      now, you are posting to no one.

      If after reading the evdl instruction pages you still need help, I
      suggest you contact our helpful evdl system administrator.



      To answer your question:

      For a short time, I had a Green Motor Works EV conversion that had
      dual DC2DC converters (outputs in parallel) that were powered on
      every time my key was on. It too had no 12V aux battery, with the
      DC2DC converters supplying the 12V power off the main PbSO4 pack.

      Later, I had my S-10 Blazer EV conversion modified to have a switch
      to turn on supply power from the main pack to the input of DC2DC
      converter. When the key switch was on, the DC2DC was on as well. The
      Blazer had a 12V aux battery.

      In both cases, with or without an aux battery, and with or without a
      switch, the DC2DC was being turned on and off multiple times without
      any harmful affects.

      I suggest your conversion have the DC2DC on when the key is on, and
      also copy what I did of having an additional switch on the dash
      that allows you to turn on the DC2DC with the key off.

      Sometimes I would be charging for many hours off a skinny outlet,
      sitting and waiting in the driver's seat with the radio on. Having
      the ability to turn the DC2DC on when I wanted to was quite useful.


      I would put a switch feeding the DC2DC input.
      I would not put a switch on the DC2DC output.


      I would also suggest for those that have a 12V aux battery like my
      Blazer did, that you set your DC2DC to 13.8VDC so that it does not
      overcharge the 12V aux battery, prematurely aging it/killing it.


      {brucedp.150m.com}





      -
      http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/DC-DC-Converter-Switch-td4402229.html
      Selected post Feb 19, 2012; 11:03am
      Re: DC-DC Converter Switch...
      John K
      2 posts

      This post has NOT been accepted by the mailing list yet.

      The car has a 120 volt system.
      The main breaker to the pack is generally not turned off.
      There is a DC-DC converter for auxiliary power - no auxiliary
      battery.

      Question: should the converter aux switch be put between
      on the 12v output wire or the 120 volt input wire?

      The reason I ask is does flipping the converter on and off
      cause more wear than just leaving it on, or vice versa?

      Thanks,
      John
      -

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