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Re: Faros + SDR

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  • g7kse
    Theres a point where I m going to have to just bite the bullet and start soldering. The I ll get my eyes lasered so i can see again! thanks for the advice
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 21, 2008
      Theres a point where I'm going to have to just bite the bullet and
      start soldering. The I'll get my eyes lasered so i can see again!

      thanks for the advice though.

      I've got a v9.0 kit which I'm hoping to use. There are a few people
      who've got a seperate board for swithing centre frequencies but I'm
      thinking this might not be necssary if the centres are set to the
      ncdxf frequencies. I undertsand that even if a 48kHz soundcard is
      used then it will not be too hard to set it up.


      --- In dxatlas_group@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Baxter" <dave@...> wrote:
      > Hi Alex...
      > OK on that. I'm still trying to find my way round the group's file
      > folders. Y was very slow yesterday, but I did managed to find and
      > the soundcard capability/benchmark software. Seems I have a half
      > soundsystem, and quiet too, when it's input is grounded.
      > Not found any downloads for the SDR software yet, other than
      (very) old
      > releases, and Rocky of course.
      > I plan on first getting one of the kits going firs, but it was
      > that there is a multi band beta release/prototype kit about, (V9?
      > sounds more likely to be suitable for Faros use) but not found
      hide nor
      > hair of that yet.
      > Yes, manually soldering SMD parts can indeed be "Interesting"...
      > One technique I use when needed (that I learnt from someone else)
      is to
      > position the device on the board and hold it there with a spring
      > pin on top of the package. That then allows you to accurately
      > it so all it's legs sit on the tracks just fine.
      > Then just "Flood solder" all the legs on each side, covering the
      > You need a good hot iron, with a largeish bit, say 4mm screwdriver
      > to do it quickly.
      > Then use prefluxed desolder wick to remove 90% of what you just
      > (Take care to observe static safe practices etc, if needed remove
      > desolder wick from the plastic carier.)
      > Do both operations in quick succession, so you don't thermaly
      shock the
      > thing too many times!
      > That will then leave the devices pins soldered to the cirtuit
      > with no shorts etc.
      > I've done this several times that way now, and though messy at
      first, it
      > results in a fairly good looking solder job. Clean up any flux
      > with a cotton bud, and IPA (Iso Prop' Alcohol solvent, not beer!)
      > Meths.
      > The only down side, is it's easier to mount SMD stuff first, then
      > populate the rest of the board after, increasing the risk of
      damage to
      > the SMD part if there is an uninteded discharge from something.
      > With a bit of practice, it works very well, & I've not (yet)
      killed a
      > chip doing it that way either.
      > Cheers Alex.
      > Dave G0WBX.
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: dxatlas_group@yahoogroups.com
      > > 2a. Re: Faros + SDR
      > > Posted by: "g7kse" g7kse@... g7kse
      > > Date: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:18 am ((PST))
      > >
      > > Dave,
      > >
      > > I've got one of the kits through from Tony albeit short of
      > > the CMOS bit. I must admit I took one look at it and thought
      > > that the SMD's might be a bit beyond my 'splatter it with
      > > solder' style. But it was specifically for trying to get it
      > > to work with Faros.
      > >
      > > You can just pay Tony through Paypal and the kit is sent when
      > > the parts are in.
      > >
      > > Alex
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