Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

RE: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: new powder

Expand Messages
  • Airan Bertinetti
    I don t sell this product, it is alone a new idea to improve the printer. sorry me! Airan To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com From:
    Message 1 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
    • 0 Attachment
      I don't sell this product, it is alone a new idea to improve the printer. sorry me!
       
      Airan
       

      To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      From: afogassa@...
      Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 00:58:57 +0000
      Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: new powder

       


      --- In diy_3d_printing_ and_fabrication@ yahoogroups. com, Airan Bertinetti <airanbertinetti@ ...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > No expensive bulk and ink for Lexmark printer use. Or water and alcool use.
      >
      > Brasilian link: http://produto. mercadolivre. com.br/MLB- 107691348- bulk-ink- hp-impressoras- c3180-c4180- c4280-f4180- f380-2610- _JM

      If you want to promote your products send me some for free and I will post a link to my blog but don't do it here as it can be considered as a SPAM SPAM SPAM SPAM SPAM.... moderator Please!

      Fogassa




      Navegue com segurança com o Novo Internet Explorer 8. Baixe agora, é gratis!
    • Jack
      you could do a pre-sale sale . Promise to send folks a pound for every $20 they donate ahead of time, assuming the retail price will be $30/lb. I also
      Message 2 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
      • 0 Attachment
        you could do a 'pre-sale sale'. Promise to send folks a pound for
        every $20 they donate ahead of time, assuming the retail price will be
        $30/lb.

        I also suggest you make a MSDS for it. If you are going to be
        manufacturing and selling stuff that is not
        a hard good it is pretty much required these days.

        Also on the IP, find the patents that others have on their similar
        products and make sure you can differentiate
        your product from theirs in easy to understand terms (other than just
        $$). If they don't do patents, then they
        could be 'trade secrets'. But as others have said, real IP pro's
        should be consulted if you have issues in this area.

        ><> ... Jack



        On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 4:09 PM, afogassa <afogassa@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135" <gsi11135@...> wrote:
        >>
        >> Why not keepto the open source mantra and raise money in other ways. A possible way would be to add up current costs and costs for a new version of your printer.
        >>
        >> Then, use a service like http://www.kickstarter.com/ to raise the necessary money for development. Offer plans for a certain donation level, partial parts kit for another donation level, and a starter kit for the top level donations.
        >>
        >> If, for example, each individual on the list donation $20 (or more) to your cause you could raise up to $14K. More than enough to develop the hardware and enough to, perhaps, hire another individual(s) to write software based, say, on the RepRap software. I am sure there are even more individuals off-list that would love to contribute.
        >>
        >> Also, you may consider bringing other collaborators from this list that can add expertise to your next project.
        >>
        >> I would be happy to allow you to post an advertisement as well and would be happy to be the first to donate. However, I would like to encourage you to keep all information open source within the public domain.
        >>
        >> Lots to think about!
        >>
        >> Joseph
        >> Owner/Moderator
        >
        >  Donation won't work as I foud out. I had a request on my blog for a donation to keep the project going but no one offered any donation not a sigle dollar bill but there is over 70 followers on it.
        >  plus it looks like I'm bagging for money.
        >  I'll stick to the plans and pcb boards. the pcb board will have a 3 axis step drive and the parameters can be changed by a a therminal program or maybe just using the lcd screen think of it as a plc with step motor driver. I'll post the pcb and hex code to the group if someone wants to make on theyr own.
        >  I'll be selling the powder too since I do have to buy the 50 kilos bag after all it's just the dental plaster if you know what I mean plus it's pink not white but one can change the printed part  color by using blue ink for exemple.
        >  I've made a few prints with the new powder so it's a little to early to say it's the missing link but 2mm thick  walls by 10mm high have survived removing from the powder bed.also I did print the same statue figure and it came out with really nice finish, I was going to post a pic to the group but I mess it out when infiltrating with cyano(only had a thick one at hand) I will print a new one and take a picture for comparation to the old one and post to the group this week.
        >  I'will offer some critial parts like the roller assembly, a better linear rail, gears,pulleys and belts  also I'll have to sale the step motor that works with the standard printer drive not easy to find.
        >  Now, enough talk and let's get back to work I need to think a little more on how to improve the machine accuracy without braking the 1K budget to build one by yourself.
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
      • Jack
        In a former life I worked for a big oil company when inkjet technology was just really taking off. They did a lot of large format color printing for printing
        Message 3 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
        • 0 Attachment
          In a former life I worked for a big oil company when inkjet technology was
          just really taking off.

          They did a lot of large format color printing for printing
          seismic traces in their exploration area. Anyway, before inkjet, prints cost
          about $5/sq ft or more, and had to be laminated and that
          drove the costs higher. They did it because it was still
          cost effective for their use, but it did cost big $$.

          Once inkjet came onto the commercial scene, they got some of the first
          larger format inkjet printers, HP 650 if I remember right with 42" carage.

          To bring down costs further, they worked with HP and eventually 3rd party
          engineers to use large paper rolls rather than cut sheets, and HP started
          developing and testing larger reservior ink cartridges (or reserviors that were
          piped to modified carts that would refill whenever the heads came to their
          'rest' position. One color in each cartridge (RGB and black if I
          remembr right).

          The 3rd party folks did the same thing only provided modified cart's with small
          hoses attached that were permanently attached and were routed to 4 one-galon
          jugs (ink reservoirs) that sat at the end of the printer. There were
          small pumps
          on a shelf above the jugs that attached to the ink cart's. It wasn't
          elegant but
          rather than changing even the smaller HP reservoirs (about a liter I
          think) daily,
          the jugs got re-filled weekly. It saved a lot of operator time after
          it got running
          smoothly.

          Now would doing something like that make life a bit easier to have 'enough' ink?
        • raiorz
          ... Buy a HP business inkjet for under 10.- USD at ebay and you have exact that solution, as i told it x-times before.
          Message 4 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
          • 0 Attachment
            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Jack <jack@...> wrote:
            >
            > In a former life I worked for a big oil company when inkjet technology was
            > just really taking off.
            >
            > They did a lot of large format color printing for printing
            > seismic traces in their exploration area. Anyway, before inkjet, prints cost
            > about $5/sq ft or more, and had to be laminated and that
            > drove the costs higher. They did it because it was still
            > cost effective for their use, but it did cost big $$.
            >
            > Once inkjet came onto the commercial scene, they got some of the first
            > larger format inkjet printers, HP 650 if I remember right with 42" carage.
            >
            > To bring down costs further, they worked with HP and eventually 3rd party
            > engineers to use large paper rolls rather than cut sheets, and HP started
            > developing and testing larger reservior ink cartridges (or reserviors that were
            > piped to modified carts that would refill whenever the heads came to their
            > 'rest' position. One color in each cartridge (RGB and black if I
            > remembr right).
            >
            > The 3rd party folks did the same thing only provided modified cart's with small
            > hoses attached that were permanently attached and were routed to 4 one-galon
            > jugs (ink reservoirs) that sat at the end of the printer. There were
            > small pumps
            > on a shelf above the jugs that attached to the ink cart's. It wasn't
            > elegant but
            > rather than changing even the smaller HP reservoirs (about a liter I
            > think) daily,
            > the jugs got re-filled weekly. It saved a lot of operator time after
            > it got running
            > smoothly.
            >
            > Now would doing something like that make life a bit easier to have 'enough' ink?
            >
            Buy a HP business inkjet for under 10.- USD at ebay and you have exact that solution, as i told it x-times before.
          • John
            ... I too am having problems with refilling my ink cartridges. Are you placing the ink in the vaccum chamber to degass the liquid or are you putting the entire
            Message 5 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
            • 0 Attachment
              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "threedeelabs" <threedlabs@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Yes, I think you should post your formula so others can improve it, or adapt it to other uses. Of course, as you say, people may want to buy the powder from you if they don't want to make it themselves.
              > >
              > > One question: did you manage to find PVA that was fine-grained (80 micron or so), or is it coarse, like Elvanol or Mowiol?
              >
              > Yes it's a fine grained hard to get PVA and dental plaster, I had some coarse grain PVA that I did ground it to a finer powder for my initial testes you can do that if you can't find a finer grade.
              > Actually you don't really need to add PVA to the dental plaster IF you play with the ink on the cartridge( mix your own formulation to controll how the ink gets absorbed by the powder) but as I had gone thru about 8 print heads trying some stuff on it I gave up on it(it was getting too expenssive to play with it)
              > Actually no one wants to talk about how a inkjet ink is made it's kind of Black magic they will not even talk how to properly refill your cartridge. After many trials I've found out that it needs a vaccum chamber to remove the air from the ink or it will fail to print properly. As I had a small vaccum pump and a Jar that was easy but not before lossing half of my hair trying to figure out why it prints when I take it to the store to be recharge with ink and not print when I recharge it using the same ink and a syringe.
              >
              I too am having problems with refilling my ink cartridges. Are you placing the ink in the vaccum chamber to degass the liquid or are you putting the entire refilled cartridge in the chamber to remove air from the print nozzles?
            • afogassa
              ... I m using the 30ml cartridge as it lasts longer. refill the cartridge,put the hole cartridge inside the jar, apply vaccum for about 5 min. then pull some
              Message 6 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
              • 0 Attachment
                > I too am having problems with refilling my ink cartridges. Are you placing the ink in the vaccum chamber to degass the liquid or are you putting the entire refilled cartridge in the chamber to remove air from the print nozzles?
                >

                I'm using the 30ml cartridge as it lasts longer. refill the cartridge,put the hole cartridge inside the jar, apply vaccum for about 5 min. then pull some of the ink from the printhead nozzle using the vaccum pump and a small silicon hose, becarefull to not damage the nozzle. maybe you can skipp this step and just vaccum it out.
              • vrsculptor@hotmail.com
                Fogassa, Great to see you still hanging in. I ve started work on a 3D HP 960 based printer in my spare time and have some thoughts. ...
                Message 7 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
                • 0 Attachment
                  Fogassa,
                  Great to see you still hanging in. I've started work on a 3D HP 960 based printer in my spare time and have some thoughts.

                  > To get good printed parts all of the components that makes the machine needs to be reasonable accurate, this includes;
                  > linear rails needs to be straight and flat, spreading roller needs to be concentric( no more then 0.001" TIR we are dealing with a 0.0039" layers) and you need a good quality acme leadscrew.
                  > Also You will need to replace the MDF top by either a aluminum plate or CORIAN as it's the base for the hole sistem.
                  > please take this as a advice before planning to build one.

                  <http://stores.shop.ebay.com/linearmotionbearings> has really nice 12mm supported rails and bearings at a reasonable price. I'm using some old Thomson SPB-10 5/8 unsupported round ways that I had for a while but the supported rails are much easier to use.

                  Melamine covered fiber board makes a good inexpensive base and is water/ink proof. Its used for shelf and cabinets and is pretty strong and dimensionally stable. Much cheaper but not near as good as 1/2" Corian or aluminum.

                  <http://www.mcmaster.com/> Seems to have the best price on precision rolled ACME rods. About $30 for 6' of 1/2-10. Several sellers have delrin ACME nuts on Ebay at $5-6 each.

                  If you need encoders (I did for the HP) use CUI AMT102 encoders. Variable resolution, $29 each from DigiKey.

                  As was mentioned in another post the HP OfficeJet (8000 or K5400) with ink tanks is probably the best choice for a 3D printer. I bought one for $80 at CompUSA but don't plan on sacrificing it until (if) my current effort yields a good flat bed printer. At that point I will know that my approach and microcode are working. Adding the roller and elevators should not be too hard if I follow your lead.

                  Roger
                • afogassa
                  I ll stick with lexmark after beat the hell of it and it still going plus it s dummb and easyer to cheat. I need to replace the print head carriage it has
                  Message 8 of 25 , Oct 28, 2009
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I'll stick with lexmark after beat the hell of it and it still going plus it's dummb and easyer to cheat. I need to replace the print head carriage it has lot's of play on it but still printing ok.
                    I've got another used one in very good condition to keep as a backup paid 25 bucks for it.maybe I will that as a exemple when writing the plans.


                    --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, vrsculptor@... wrote:
                    >
                    > Fogassa,
                    > Great to see you still hanging in. I've started work on a 3D HP 960 based printer in my spare time and have some thoughts.
                    >
                    > > To get good printed parts all of the components that makes the machine needs to be reasonable accurate, this includes;
                    > > linear rails needs to be straight and flat, spreading roller needs to be concentric( no more then 0.001" TIR we are dealing with a 0.0039" layers) and you need a good quality acme leadscrew.
                    > > Also You will need to replace the MDF top by either a aluminum plate or CORIAN as it's the base for the hole sistem.
                    > > please take this as a advice before planning to build one.
                    >
                    > <http://stores.shop.ebay.com/linearmotionbearings> has really nice 12mm supported rails and bearings at a reasonable price. I'm using some old Thomson SPB-10 5/8 unsupported round ways that I had for a while but the supported rails are much easier to use.
                    >
                    > Melamine covered fiber board makes a good inexpensive base and is water/ink proof. Its used for shelf and cabinets and is pretty strong and dimensionally stable. Much cheaper but not near as good as 1/2" Corian or aluminum.
                    >
                    > <http://www.mcmaster.com/> Seems to have the best price on precision rolled ACME rods. About $30 for 6' of 1/2-10. Several sellers have delrin ACME nuts on Ebay at $5-6 each.
                    >
                    > If you need encoders (I did for the HP) use CUI AMT102 encoders. Variable resolution, $29 each from DigiKey.
                    >
                    > As was mentioned in another post the HP OfficeJet (8000 or K5400) with ink tanks is probably the best choice for a 3D printer. I bought one for $80 at CompUSA but don't plan on sacrificing it until (if) my current effort yields a good flat bed printer. At that point I will know that my approach and microcode are working. Adding the roller and elevators should not be too hard if I follow your lead.
                    >
                    > Roger
                    >
                  Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.