RE: RE: LCD Panel 3d printer...future thoughts
I misspoke and I need to correct that so it doesn't cause confusion for someone later on.
I stated that, "You need to transit lower frequencies of light in order to cure most photo curable resins. However, this issue has lessened being that there are resins available now that can be cured with lower frequencies."
For starters, I meant to type transmit not transit, but that's not the big error, the big error is I interchanged frequency with wavelength. So I should have said, you need to transmit shorter wavelengths of light in order to cure most photo curable resins. However, this issue has lessened being that there are resins available now that can be cured with longer wavelengths.
I could have use the word frequency too by saying, you need to transmit higher frequencies of light in order to cure most photo curable resins. However, this issue has lessened being that there are resins available now that can be cured with lower frequencies.
Sorry about that! :D
Oh and for other readers in the know, don't be afraid to correct me on anything. I love to be corrected cuz I like getting it right and I also love learning new things. :)
--- In email@example.com, <james-w-kincaid-lll@...> wrote:
Resolution is not much of an issue. DLP type 3D printers do just fine with the standard resolutions available. Now, if want to print something big, that's different. But there are ways around that as well, by simply adding more projectors or just moving the projector in an array patten and doing multiple exposures per layer.
The main issue with using LCD monitors is transmission. You need to transit lower frequencies of light in order to cure most photo curable resins. However, this issue has lessened being that there are resins available now that can be cured with lower frequencies.
If I were going to make a 3D printer using an LCD monitor the first thing I would do is find a resin that can work with higher frequencies. The next thing I would do is get some LEDs that emit in that frequency rage and then start testing monitors for transmission capability in that range.
Finding this combination would be great since we could then make DLP style printers without the high cost of acquiring a DLP projector.
Then again, why do that when there are methods already developed where lasers are employed such as the mUVe 3D and the OpenSL. Well, price wise LCDs would be a little cheaper than those two methods, but the real advantage is accuracy and repeatability. Since the only moving part would be the Z axis, this makes for extremely precise finishes and nearly perfect repeatability.
Your system works normally. When you set up slicer using mach 3 setting, the a axis is setup as extruder. To prevent the ooze, the a axis motor will retract backward very fast to avoid stringing in the printed object. And when the a axis extrude the material, the motor will turn slowly to push the filament to the extruder.
You can clearly adjust the extract setting in slicer. The bigger the number, the more rotation will occur. Just enter 0, if you do not want any retraction occurs.
Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
From: ERKAN BISEVAC <ebisevac@...>;
To: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>;
Subject: Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] RE: Mach3
Sent: Tue, Oct 1, 2013 4:31:05 AMPZ
I have a demo version.
Yes, I posted the same question to that group too.
I just went and switched the wires to the glue feeding motor, but I still have problems with it.
It goes slow than stops then goes reverse very fast for short period. Than it goes slow again etc.
It should go slow in one direction so it feeds the glue into the glue gun.
I am going to remove the 4 pole motor and just put the regular two wire motor and provide the separate switch and be done.
My biggest problem is how to make the plotting start at the location that I choose.
I looked at your explanation but I didn't understand it.
If anybody can help me with it I would appreciate it.
From: "pzamov@..." <pzamov@...>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 2:52 AM
Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] RE: Mach3
Hi Erkan,The Mach3 software itself costs ~$175. If it is the full version that you have received with the controller, then I doubt is legit. It may also be a demo version ( you can download the Mach3 Demo from http://www.machsupport.com/software/downloads-updates/ ) in which case you will be limited to 500 lines of code.Its not that we may or may not help, but every printer is different and the build envelope is different. If we are to give you settings "in the blind" they might cause the motors to perform a move that may break the printer and we do not want to do that?There is also a Yahoo group about Mach http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mach1mach2cnc that may be of help. Also you can register on the Mach3 forum and CNCZone.For some safe answers:Motor Tuning is where you can control the speed - provided you have all other settings and calculations.Spindle control is an output pin - for the ON/OFF control. Spindle revolutions input needs an encoder/hall sensor.The starting point is a little tricky, but there are two.One is Machine coordinates - the mechanical limitsOther is Program coordinates - the software limits.You need to position your Home/limit switches ( if you are using ones ) and THE MOST IMPORTANT - EMERGENCY - button.Usually you home all axis at the start of a job against the machine coordinates and then have the motors/spindle go to program coordinate 0 in gcode.
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <email@example.com> wrote:Hi,
I am member of this group for couple of months and I am building hot glue 3d printer.
So far it costs me under $100.
The biggest expense is the motor control board that I got of the eBay for $60.
Good and bad thing is this board (blue one, there is also a red board) also came with the Mach3 program and pin settings but I have no clue how to set the rest of the things.
For example speed of the motors, spindle control, starting point, etc.
I would like to run XY motors with the slower speed and when I set them that way my starting point is suddenly out of the range. How can I move the starting point of the printing where I want it?
I need the 4th motor (spindle) to go the same speed and CW instead of CCW but I have no clue how to control it.
I don't expect this printer to print precise things. I am building it just for fun and to print bulkier stuff.
If anybody can help me I will appreciate it.
From: metalations@... <metalations@...>;
Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] RE: 100 dollar resin printer on kickstarter
Sent: Fri, Sep 27, 2013 4:37:04 AMIve spent the past week or so restraining myself from comment in a number of places....Since we all seem to be big kids here....Not the rampant fanboys that seem to see nothing more than $100 (cad)I have decided to air my biggest and only pit with the peach....IT IS NOT a $100 printer. it is a $100 mechanism. It is a great idea....no argument. I am impressed with the inital results. Not impressed as I am with the prints from any other photo resin or polymer jet system.I would have pledged $100 just to support the development if the thing was offered as a $100 developers kit to draw on crowdsourced development with a reasonable support/dev forum.....But this mechanism is being presented as a printer....the makers are tooting trumpets of ultraaffordability....amazing capabilities from a bit of nothing.....all you need is a speaker jack...no controller....hell we'll just get drippy even.....and I love the sound of it....Id love to buy into the hype.....But then if you read the fine print......and no one seems to be focused on that to intent to WOW at the low dollar....the $600 level gets you the mechanism fast and another a little later....and honestly calls you a beta tester. But given the staged delivery....every batch is a beta tester...OF THE MECHANISM.....BECAUSE the real printer is scheduled for august 2014....everything before that is a BETA.
Pledge $1,000 or more5 backers Limited (195 left of 200)Peachy Printer Pro (fully assembled).The Peachy Pro will be built using the best quality parts available! It will also have increased functionality. Some of it's features will include lapped and polished mirrors, a pump, a micro-controller (no longer reliant on your computers sound card), and a high power laser with continuous focusing. The result will be higher quality prints with a faster and larger print capability! 1 litre of resin included.Estimated delivery: Aug 2014Add $50 CAD to ship outside Canada
So please....if any of you are working on something interesting, and you want to release it waay before it is refined and complete....state your long term goals clearly, invite the world to help you develop the idea into a reality..Because we here are all a bit more educated in the realities of 3d printers. We have different expectations then the average person seeing $100 3d printer articles....that make claims of unlimited scalability, to canoe size? There is optimistic enthusiasm.....there is delusional ignorance....and there is slimy used car tactics....not sure which is responsible here....
Maybe I just cant trust a guy who cant look a camera in the eye....though I dont thing the 5 minutes of staring away from us is what people mean when they say "theres something shifty about that cat"
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <email@example.com> wrote:Has anybody else seen this 100 dollar resin printer on Kickstarter? Looks like he has come up with some really interesting solutions that you guys might find inspiring.http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/117421627/the-peachy-printer-the-first-100-3d-printer-and-sc?ref=categoryChris